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@Uncle Gump @sgtsandman Is this leak bad enough to be causing my issue? It was the only thing I really saw. There was some oily residue I could wipe away. If so, I'm kinda passed cause this was a new accumulator.

Well, you were right. It was low. I added the r134a recharge cans that I had (maybe half a pound?) and got the compressor to stay on and air to cool down. Got it to the point where it wouldn't really take anymore refrigerant even though it seemed I had some in the can still. pressure was reading...

So I just went out to look at it. I hooked up my recharge kit to the low pressure side with the ac running and I could watch the pressure rise and fall as the compressor cycled. The needle would climb up to about 45 psi then the compressor would kick on and it would drop over a couple seconds...

I'm guessing you're right since the AC has now started to not blow very cold. I'll hook up one of my recharge bottles and see if it'll take some refrigerant and improve. If that's true, it means I have a leak somewhere. :mad: Not sure how or where since the shop said it held vacuum and recharged...

Alright, so it's been a couple weeks now and the A/C is still running cold, however, I've noticed the last week or so that the compressor is short cycling a lot. It'll kick off and on every 4-5 seconds. I don't remember it doing this initially but maybe I just wasn't paying close enough...

Here are the pics of the hard line connections underneath. Like I said, a bit of modding was needed since the V6 rangers have their radiator ports on the opposite side as the 4 cylinder. I made a new bracket out of the piece I cut from the grille baffle and rivets.

I just added an OEM aux trans cooler to my 98 2.5L w/ 4R44E. As noted above, I pulled all the components (oem cooler, hoses, hard lines) from my local salvage yard. You need the hard line from the radiator to the cooler and from the cooler to the trans. You can keep your existing hard line from...

Got the Ranger into the shop today and they were able to evacuate the AC and charge it back up, no issues. AC runs cold and all the vents/controls seem to work properly! Took it for a test drive and the AC no longer cuts out, redirects to defrost, or blows hot air when accelerating onto the...

Last night I finally replaced my spark plugs and wires on my 98 2.5L. Haven't changed them before and the #3 wire boot on the passenger side was partially melted and visibly arcing/ticking while running. Boy, that was not fun. I had the wobble extensions, etc. so the actual plug removal and...

Ok, time for a status update on this. I opened up the AC system and my orifice tube was covered in black crap, so that confirms my compressor died the "black death" and most of my system is going to be contaminated. Let that be a lesson not to buy a remanufactured compressor off ebay. I went to...

I think so. I was relayed the message by the guy at the front desk. When I asked specifically what he meant, he said that's just what he was told and they had their "best guy" diagnose it and said the compressor was bad and needed to be replaced. I'm starting to wonder if they're getting...

They hooked it up to their machine and told me it wouldn't take any fluid so the compressor needed to be replaced. Is it worth taking my chances with a salvaged compressor? The other option would be a Motorcraft compressor w/ out clutch for about $75 more but I'd have to swap over my clutch...

Alright, took it to the shop and they told me my compressor is shot. Not sure about where the leak is coming from because they weren't able to charge it or run the compressor. Is it possible for me to still leak test it somehow? I'd hate to replace the compressor, accumulator, orifice tube...

So I picked up on OEM trans cooler from the salvage yard, along with the hard line from the cooler to the trans and from the radiator to the cooler. My trans to radiator line should be fine to stay where it is. Well, it looks like my 2.5L has a radiator that's a mirror image of the donor one I...

Thanks. When I added the recharge to get it to kick on the compressor ran steady for quite a while (10 mins?) before I shut it off. Probably an hour later I took it for a test drive and the compressor wouldn't kick on at that point. I haven't added the whole AC Pro can yet, so maybe I've added...

Right, but not start blasting hot air out the defrost vents, right. From everything I've read, that means I'm losing vacuum. No one has a 2.5L that knows how that 3-way vacuum fitting is supposed to connect to? I found some other ppls pics and it looked like their yellow line from evap went...

That seems connected. I can trace it from the 4 way valve on the heater hoses to under the blower motor. Cant actually see where it connects but it doesnt feel loose. Under glove box inside I see the connector where it comes in and connects to some kind of door lifter then the other multicolor...

So, about the vacuum leak, what is this and where is this vacuum line supposed to connect?

And I just took it for a drive to check the redirect to defrost with WOT and it's still doing it so it seems there is still a vacuum issue somewhere. I dont have gauges or a vacuum pump so I guess I'll have to take it in for diagnosis. With all I've described, could a broken blend door still he...

Thanks all. I checked the blend door actuator and I can feel it moving when I turn the temp selector. Today the compressor wouldnt cycle on again so I added more recharge kit. I added until it read 40 psi/yellow on 2 different recharge gauges. None of the ac lines got cold. Line out of...