Search results

Thank you RonD. Good stuff. Lots of info at that link. The carb is a re-man 2150 (labelled by the rebuilder as ND2816A). https://nationalcarburetors.com/Ford-Truck-1983-1984-171-28L-AT-WTPS-Feedback-Valve-Ford-2150_p_1979.html Stumbled on to this diagram too.

Oh, yeah, it hasn't solved the relay/carb clicking after the vehicle is shut off. Be looking in to the mixture control you mentioned.

Definitely going to look in to the Duraspark, but, for today ..... Got to the dist hold down, reset the TDC on the dist, put the whole shabangabang back together and ..... wait for it ...... VROOOOOOOOOOM, started on the first shot. Didn't read what you had last written till after the thing...

Thank you sShran. Your first comment seems most reasonable. Haven't had the car that long and it has never run "normally". Seemed like it was chugging at best. My approximation having seen where the rotor is when #1 is at TDC, it could be as much as 60 degrees out. Given its age and from what...

Have also been looking for info about the carb mentioned above or at least one similar. New to this so i am finding it odd that it would have ports that need to be plugged, ports not plugged, trying to bring the whole thing together in my mind with what i am seeing in the vehicle. Meaning, not...

Got the dist loose, minor adjusting did absolutely nothing. I previously mentioned the relay starting to click after the ignition key was turned off, i have identified where on the carb is also clicking (circled in photo), just don't know what it is or if it is relevant to my problem. Not sure...

Thanks for responding. Wires: checked, double and triple checked. I can now wire it in my sleep. And, put back old wires and broken cap to check that. Still wouldn't fire. Only thing i didn't put back was the old plugs. Marked there order though in case i needed to do so. All with photos...

Distibuter cap replaced. 1 point had broken off, 1 point was corroded beyond probably being functional, internal corrosion on the remaining points were ... extreme. Ran like crap (had this chugga chugga rumble), however, 2 pumps, turn the key and it started with seemingly no effort. So...

When i saw the price, yeah, $46 for an empty can and single one way valve, couldn't do it. Plus, the pineapple juice was awesome 😉

The final product

Thank you AndyB, in my mind that is exactly what i thought it was supposed to be.

I figure i will install a small compressor/air filter for the time being.

Vacuum canister, recycled from rusted out existing.

Just got home from work and have been chomping at the bit to see if the cat had that port. Odd, someone must have been messing around under there and accidentally hit the delete button on the cat, cause, yeah, there isn't one. HA, go figure. Also missing are the last 6 feet or so of pipe from...

By no means did i think wild goose chase at any time, i greatly appreciate you taking the time to respond initially and more so with this new information. On this engine there is only a single port on the pump, and the bypass and control valve are gained together. See first image below. In...

Thanks for the reply, makes sense being unfamiliar with what should be there. I have searched and searched for images, diagrams and any form of info of what a stock engine consists of. Not a whole lot out there about this specific part of the engine. Thanks again, I'll post again with my findings 👍

There is the currently a connected port which feeds both side exhaust manifolds. Do you mean a separate smaller type device in the engine bay or down to the exhaust system muffler? Been under it a bunch doing brake lines and such, don't recall seeing anything open.

1983 Ranger 2.8 V6. Recently acquired so am still in the learning phase. The air control valve has an open port and there does not appear to be any open ports anywhere on the engine for it to go. The feeder hose is from air pump, to air bypass valve, to air control valve. One port on the ACV...