My issue is a low idle and if I use the stop screw to raise the idle it going to push the TPS voltage over 1V and mess with the computers parameters....i also found this on another site that breaks it out a bit more by the years
I'm curious if this works on the later models as well? 91-92? And if so how do you reconcile for the TPS voltage being high or low after adjusting the idle this way?
He's ran techron through it a couple of times, seems like dirty injectors would be more consistent and predictable? Or am I off base? I was leaning toward testing the MAP and rechecking the TPS (new).
It's my kids truck....so getting accurate info is sketchy at best lol! The worst part is It's an intermittent issue...but aside from that it only seems to do it when warm and over 3000 rpms. Was trying to figure out if the 91s had the rev limiter on the neutral saftey/clutch switch but I...
Ok. Picked up an OEM PCM from a junkyard. Opened and inspected all the caps and checked for burned traces on the PCB, all good! Installed and the fuel prime/starting issue is solved! Fires right up and drives every time! A secondary issue that I had not asked about still exists...
I'll try that this weekend.....this issue is VERY predictable. As soon as the pump shuts of, I can hear one of the relays in the engine bay (haven't isolated which one) click, then the truck fires right up! I thought I had read somewhere that the pcm would not allow the truck to start during...
This is the second cardone reman PCM I've gotten.....as far as I can tell the fuel pump prime cycle is all controlled by the PCM.
The fuel pump runs constantly with the key on and truck will not start. BUT... after roughly 5 min the pump FINALLY will shut off and the truck will fire right up...
Step 9 on the worksheet is the measurement I was referring to. But step 8 was confusing to me because I did not have 0 ohms.....but the worksheet does not give info on where to go if you don't have 0 ohms. Tried to find it on the wiring diagram to no avail....
Yes, the new distributor had a black one so I swapped it out with the new grey one that I had previously installed on the the old distributer. With truck running I have 5v on one side and batt + on the other side of the Spout connector.
Ok, history...new pcm a few months back, drove fine. Sat for a couple months building a bumper and stuff then would run for awhile and just shut off randomly till it finally went hard no start.....replaced the TFI and the distributer ( old one had shaft play ) same result. Started running...
Picked up a new distributor from Carquest. They swear its a direct replacement but problem is the module on it is black. I had just replaced the TFI on the old one but had the same issue (random dieing, tach jumping after dieing) should I swap the modules or run with the black one? I know...
Replaced the TFI just because.....
Anyway the truck will start idle fine then out of nowhere it just dies, but with the key still on the tach will continue to read and bounce and it sounds like a relay or something in the engine bay is rapidly clicking? What are the symptoms of a worn distributer?
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