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I'm currently, literally, putting power torque heads on my 94 Mazda b3000 5 speed. I got them from O'Reilly (my wife is an employee so I got a good price). I've heard a lot of things wrong with power torque, so I inspected the heads upon arrival before I gave them my cores. New valves, seats...

Well when I pulled the heads about 2 years ago, the valve seats for the Exhaust were sunk. I needed the truck the next day so I bought new valves and lapped them for like 30 minutes each just to get them to barely touch one side while the other side was seated within seconds. It's bad enough...

Another question for you @RonD . I've heard, and I'm currently experiencing, that the 3oh sinks Exhaust valve seats. I've had a few machinists tell me that. Is there any way to avoid that problem/ issue in the future?

Another note. My truck is a 94 B3000 and came with no EGR. I don't use 87 fuel in any of my shit, I use 89 so I'm guaranteed to get the 87or more but I don't use 91, because it's a waste of money/fuel.

I understand all of that, I know how it all works, I've just seen a few things about them blowing head gaskets and was told it's common so I wanted to try and prevent it before it happened if it was in fact a common occurrence

I'm putting new heads on my 94 3oh. I know they have issues blowing head gaskets at times. If I can avoid the possibility, I will. I was looking at Tom Morana's site and there's 10.9 head bolts and arp studs. Does anybody have experience with them or what will work just fine to help avoid...

My truck needs new heads. She still runs good, and she surprises me with how well she runs with all 6 exhaust seats sunk. I was curious on y'all's opinion. Should i buy new cast heads or should I use the aluminum heads from the newer years?

That's understandable. Also, i don't register in california. There's no smog laws or inspection at my residence where i register.

I can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for. Maybe I'm not using the correct search terms? 1994 Mazda B3000 5 speed single cab 2wd. I'm wondering about removing the charcoal canister and purge valve and lines altogether. Now, by doing that, i know if i leave it open to regulate tank...

I have a fan clutch removal kit that universal for most fan clutch nuts. The wrench slips in and has a groove that a rod slides into and the rod attaches to an air hammer. Never failed me. I believe you can rent it at most Auto parts stores. Leave the belt on though, it helps to hold the water...

I've just decided to settle for the Composite head gaskets

It's just a preference of mine if I have the option

I guess no one knows. I've been trying to compare them online, but to no avail am I finding one that seems to be a match. Google searches aren't turning anything up

So I've done testing and finally decided to do a compression test and cylinder leak test. Yay, #5 cylinder exhaust valve is bad. 75lbs compression and only holds 10psi air on a leak test. I've got new valves, new lifters and new push rods ready to go. I'm just having issues finding MLS head...

If you're pulling the front cover, it would be stupid in my opinion to not change the chain and gears. The gears on my 94 3oh are metal. To my knowledge, none of the cover bolts or pulley bolts are torque to yield. I reused all of mine with no issues.

The first time I removed my front timing cover, I was very delicate and used my finger to separate the gasket from the pan/cover them inspected for damage. When I reinstalled it, I used RTV between the pan and gasket and cover and gasket. It didn't leak. Worked great. Next time I removed it...

Do a compression check on all cylinders. I put it off on mine and chased an uneven idle with the MAF unplugged and an idle that would lope and eventually door with the MAF plugged in. Turns out I have a bad exhaust valve (after a compression check and cylinder leak test) which is throwing off...

I'm getting ready to pull the heads in my 94 3.0 vulcan and replace an exhaust valve and lap all the others. From what I can see, it has MLS head gaskets, but I can't find them for this year. Will they work off of another year 3.0? I understand MLS is more for aluminum to cast and aluminum to...

14+vdc seems kinda high. Generally they run in the 13+vdc range.

Could an over voltage cause the issue I'm having? I'm getting 14+vdc at the MAF and same voltage at the battery with the alternator/engine running.