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That doesn't sound fun...

New question: Where does the drain on the drivers side of the sunroof exit? It's still leaking into the cabin so I was hoping to try and blow air backwards through the drain.

I really appreciate the comments.

Yes, that's how I initially programmed the FOB. It just beeps when I hit the lock button like it thinks a door is open or the key is in it. I also can't press the 7/8 & 9/0 keys to lock it from the key pad. Something isn't happy. The theft light is blinking error codes so I'm guessing it's all...

Ah, I don't work on anything but Fords so the thought of getting the banks mixed up never occurred to me. Good point. Glad you mentioned 16MPG. That's about where this is at so I'm not sure moving the o2 is worth it other that it's "wrong" and tickles my OCD tendencies. I was thinking it might...

I've been driving this thing around for the past week. I really like it. Fixed a few more little things such as the driver door panel, got a matching door lock cylinder and ignition, replaced the door key pad, blend door actuator and cleaned the crap out of it. I attempted to fix the power...

Ok, noted. It's too bad this thing is so rusty or I might go that route instead of swapping the Ranger. I am changing the hard lines on the power steering rack. Man, what a pain. I got the bad one off but I surely couldn't figure out how to tighten the one side last night. I'll have to try...

Definitely want to keep the Ranger 4x4. I'd love to SAS it and go 35s after the V8 swap someday. I heard there was an adapter I could buy to re-use the ranger tcase but the f150 tcase sounds like a better option. You just saved me a ton of research!!

One more question. This unit is AWD and the ABS light is on, does that disable the AWD system as well?

That's fantastic news. Thanks!

I just got a '99 V8 AWD explorer to donate it's drivetrain to my '03 ranger with a locked up 4.0. Anyway after I started digging into it... It's not bad. Rusty but not bad. It was a theft recovery so I sent the ECM out for a PATS delete (key switch is buggered & no keys) then threw a fuel pump...

Ok, so my original thought was correct. This driveshaft is close but still needs to be shortened since I'm only running a 3" lift and the later transmissions were longer. This would've been so much easier if I could have found a complete donor vehicle. 5spd and manual shift t-case trucks are...

Good news. I managed to get the clutch bled in about 20 minutes. Last time it took all afternoon. Bad news is the rebuilt transmission is just as noisy as it was when I originally took it out before the rebuild. Although the clutch fork isn't scrapping in 5th anymore. Maybe it shifts smoother...

Yes, it was all just too low. It's bolted in now and rear drive shaft is in.

I used a jack and pushed it up. All is well.

< 2 min video showing issue. Can I just push it up? Link to video

Hi y'all. It's been a while since I've updated this thread. I am curious if anyone is trying to hack together the same combination of items and how they got it to work. Current situation is I swapped in a D35 earlier this summer thinking all I needed to do was to shorten the front driveshaft...

100% a face palm moment. Now I remember reading that. I got so caught up in everything else I was/am trying to do to this thing I forgot. Thanks guys. I'll check it out in the morning and report the results.

Looking down from the top of the tire

That's exactly what's happening. Much better way of describing it.