With the engine running, unplugging the sensor drops the idle and it dies after 10 seconds or so. So I guess I'll leave the MAF alone and continue on.
I tightened up a few things on the air box and it seems to have helped (also no gasket was present between the MAF and air tube headed to the...
I swapped a 4.0 from a '92 Explorer into my '84 BII last winter. I'm (slowly) trying to diagnose some high idle issues I've had all along and am currently working with the MAF sensor to see if that might be the issue.
On the MAF plug there are four pins. As I understand it, it's set up like...
Same result. No lights on the tester when I hook up the jumper. I'm hooking it up like this, but using a 12V test light in place of a meter. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/eec-iv_testing1.gif
Connecting this way I get codes with KOEO, but not Engine Running codes
Okay. I've had everything hooked up, then started the engine. Looks like I need to have the engine running (and up to temp), then connect the jumper. I'll give it a shot.
So I recently finished the 4.0 swap into my 84 Bronco II. Okay, I'll be honest, and say I'm not finished. It's running and driving and putting a constant smile on my face when behind the wheel (what a HUGE improvement over the 2.8!!), but I still have wiring to clean up and gauges to get...
Thanks, @franklin2.
The ammeter did work with the 2.8L. I'm using the 4.0L alternator and wiring. Is there a way to get this working?
Will the 4.0L temp sensor/switch work with the 84 gauge?
I spent time this weekend trying to get gauges working in the dash. I'm wanting to keep all of the original gauges in my 84 Bronco II. I installed the oil pressure sensor from my 2.8L into the 4.0L, so that one was pretty easy (though it's only working intermittently). However, I'm not getting...
WooooHoooo! Fixed! My wife even took it out for it's first spin tonight since the motor swap. I hope to get the second drive tomorrow.
So my relay problem ended up being a ground issue, as you all led me to. Specifically, PCM ground.
So who's up for a game of "Name That Connector"...
Yep, this is all from the '92 Explorer. EEC relay is working and sending 12V to the fuel pump relay on the red wire.
The EEC grounding the other side of the fuel pump relay may be my issue.
Fuses are good. Even with key off I'm getting 12V to the fuel pump relay on the yellow wire, as I should. I pulled the relay out and put a jumper in the block, and the fuel pump kicked right on. So why isn't it closing when triggered by the power from the eec relay? I would think it's a bad...
Well, ran this test this evening. No welding or fireworks, but also no change.
I've gone back a few steps - the fuel pump relay isn't closing. Eec relay is closing and sending voltage to the fuel pump relay, but voltage isn't going through it.
If anyone's going to be guilty of redgreen repairs, it's probably going to be me.
Just to clarify...
Unplug the capacitor, run a jumper wire with 12V to the wire I unplugged from the capacitor, then jump the starter solenoid?
I think it was exposed out of the split loom just through the process of the engine swap. The loom is brittle, so weaving it down into position I probably broke the loom some. I did ohm the two wires from the crank position sensor back to the edis, and they checked out.
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