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lol, i would , but the one side doesn’t even have the boot vent . 🫣 guess imma run it into the ground and get a new one when it fails

Either i cap the one side , or get a new rack and pinion. the one side boot is a tight fit, the other side has that plastic gizmo holding the tube . second hand problems are a nightmare.

alright , i’m not gonna worry about it then. i’ll pull the boots and grease them. 🤷🏼‍♂️ thank you.

wrangle cause i’m cheap. they are 27’s and I need bigger like 31’s

OK guys on my rack and pinion I’ve got a tube that leads to nothing from the passenger side over to the driver side behind the main bracket of the frame. Is there supposed to be a flex hose attached to this or what’s going on here?

no knock , no ping , smell. no over heating . It’s fine , mark as solved , found the issue . bad wire . no codes . at least for now .

that’s the problem it’s not running lean. I can try to re-cinch the sensor down. they are both new, and it wasn’t popping a code until i swapped the harness. bank 2 is driver side correct ? thought maybe it’s the iacv , but i would have thought that would be affecting both sides. 😩

well your kinda thread jacking here but heat rises , cool sinks . inlet is top of the core.

it’s me , i’m back. getting lack of O2 switched H2O2-s21 P1151 (see P2197) will disconnecting the tank purge valve cause this or do I have a bigger issue i should look into? this things running great. all the chop it had before is gone.

so am I. glad i didn’t i was just ticked at this thing. down for 3 weeks of deer season :/

sorry if I sounded like a jack wagon I appreciate the help guys.

we can mark this one as solved. The crank position sensor on the front of the engine, looked a little out of whack. I slapped a new one on there.. also my secondary O2 may have been wired upside down, I swapped harnesses all problems gone.

will do after i get done trying to get the rear O2 wired correctly

also TBH timing light not firing is telling me there isn’t spark, or it’s missing via spark system. on every vehicle i’ve ever hooked it to it flashes on every cylinder, i’m not looking at timing , it’s a safe way to not get electrocuted testing for spark.

you’re not understanding 63 PSI is my reading. I’m not running an electronic thing. When I said it’s not throwing codes, I meant my CEL isn’t on. I can swap throttle bodies ( both have a sensor, but I doubt it’s that. this crap only happens when there is a “load” on the engine. eg any incline...

Also double check your specs for pressure, i’m going by book readings 35 is way too low for a 99 4.0

it’s an analog guage my guy… on the fuel rail

if it said 1990 then autocorrect screwed me hard . this is for the 99 . 😒 F-this Iphone

got one that might mess with your head , i know it is mine . hooked up a timing light for gigs . the if i keep the inductor open it lights at half the speed of the engine (both banks), expected. if i put it on driver side bank , all good . full flash engine rpm. i put it on passenger side bank...

So KOEO 55 or there about KOER 63 on the money , full rev same. 100% not fuel pressure. so I’m waiting for my compression tester to show. ( figured i’d buy one since apparently i’m into rebuilding engines now.) Changed IACV for the hell of it , the other one was crusty. going for a...