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Whole front clip needs to be changed

I had oem buttons, they were backlit. As for the clicky-ness, they felt normal, not stiff

Should just work, mine did

Should be, don't remember what it looks like on mine

There would just be some wiring differences for the lights, I'm surprised there's such a price difference. I paid around $100 cdn for mine a few years ago. Is there a digital copy available for cheaper?

Should be able to find the correct one on ebay

My bad, rear looked very 80s. There must be a spring shop/truck shop somewhat close by.

I think you mean 87, not 97. A local spring shop for heavy trucks is probably your best bet

Yeah they're cheap on rockauto

Yes but the mazdas are 3 bulb and the rangers 01? and up are 2 bulb, so you need to do some wiring. But as Eric mentioned, are you doing aftermarket bed sides, or trying to use step side ones?

You'll have drill out all the spot welds to remove the bed sides. But if they make 7ft fibreglass bed sides they will work.

Any local spring shop or rockauto for the ubolts

You need to diagnose it properly instead of throwing parts at it. Auto zone gave you a maybe. Did they give you the actual code number?

Fingers crossed DG!

Easiest: buy a different truck. Otherwise engine swap, which is covered extensively on this site

Way better than a 4L or 3L on fuel. Probably nothing wrong with it, the 4 cyls aren't very powerful

Alot of the cheap scanners do abs codes now

It's also a 25 year economy truck

Swap the tracks over?

So little update. Tried another mode selection switch, no change. So I started poking around in the fuse box again, pulled the relay, tested it again, tests good. With the relay still out, I start the truck, and use my power probe to send 12v to terminal in the fuse box. Clutch engages and I...