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UPDATE! It worked!! Picked up 3 caps from a local store and had a friend help replace them, and now the truck starts up right away! I needed a win on this one. Thanks to everyone for the help. I don't understand how this was the problem, but I am not complaining.

Thanks for the advice! Will see how it goes next week when I can get the new ones.

I will give it a shot. I think I can source them locally but I am not confident in my ability to change them out.

Also while removing this, I found a couple more grounds but all looked good and tight

Finally got around to removing the ecu. Here are some pics of the capacitors. They are not bulging but a couple have some blue residue around them. I know nothing about these things or even own a soldering iron!

I will work on that and report back. Thank you!

That I will have to google. Not sure where the ECM is or that there were capacitors inside. The capacitors themselves can be replaced?

Checked all the grounds I could find. Funny enough the wiggle test actually helped me realize it takes eight minutes for it to shut off. I probably would’ve never known that if I’d just turn it on and leave it on and start tinkering under the hood.

Have tried relay and no change. What’s confusing me is that I have 40psi from the get go but if pump is running it won’t start. However I can start it with starting fluid and it will crank but runs rough. Sounds like it has a cam and puffs bluish white smoke. Check engine light comes on with...

Still trying to figure this out without throwing parts at it. When I turn the key on the fuel pump runs longer than the normal 2 second cycle. It run between 7 and 8 minutes every time. During this time the truck will not start. As soon as the pump stops running. Truck starts and runs perfect...

Yes it did. It usually ran the normal 2 seconds then shut off when you turn the key but now stays on. I e read where a bad ground can cause this but not sure how it related to truck not starting

NEW INFO!!!! Just noticed the fuel pump running constantly with just key on. So I left it on and under the hood I heard what sounds like fuel running?? Engine is off and cold. I start removing plugs again and all are dry then after 10 minutes the fuel pump just stops and no more whoosh sound...

I’m not sure. Does same thing with old and new tps. Also didn’t have this problem before I rebuilt engine

Still can’t figure it out. Finally got the jumper on the eec test to work and got code 122 with koeo. With koeo got 122 and 998 I believe.

I thought the same thing. They may be bad but would that stop the truck from starting when cold except on starting fluid?

FYI. Truck was running perfect prior to removal of engine. Except the xtremly bad head gasket leak🤣. Did start up easily every time. Ended up pulling motor and rebuilding bottom end with new heads

Could be injectors. Not eating oil and plugs are dry. I cleaned the injectors with a rig I made up of carb cleaner spray nozzle and 12v source but maybe sticking open?

Heads are brand new NOS. Which sensors are you referring to? I replaced both coolant temp sensors.

94 4.0 ohv. I had a timing issue that was resolved in a previous thread. The truck now runs, but still won't start unless I use starting fluid. Even then it runs rough like it is camming for 10 minutes or so. Even puffing bluish black smoke. Eventually it will correct itself. No more smoke, no...

Wanted to update on this. Maybe it will help someone in the future. It was the crank timing gear slipping. On some older rangers the crank gear is held in place by a little tab rather than the woodruff key for the crank pulley. This is actually in the 4.0 tech library. I read about this before...