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Plugs were torched, replaced. Replaced wires. O2 sensors were smoked, replaced. Replaced front cats, rear cats were empty, replaced. Runs again.

I didn’t know that but I have had to replace one on another 3.0. Thank you.

Yes. Thinking maybe some cylinders aren't firing. Thanks.

I tried and no change. Thanks for the suggestion. I’m going to check a list of things today.

Good question. I’ve put a little over 40k on it and I havent changed it. I will now. ty

99 3.0 manual 4x4 ~140k Drove an hour today no problem. Drove home 45 min truck started to buck quickly as if it was dying for a second and ‘pop’ restarting. Gradually got worse until it felt like it wasnt responding to the pedal. Much like it would feel when running out of gas. Tank at 1/4...

Rock shows Davico 19241 for both the 3.0 and 4.0. The only difference I’ve found so far between 99 and 01-03 is the collector. I think I’m going to just replace the whole front ahead of the muffler. I’ve seen a Walker y pipe with no cats but I dont have the part #.

Cost prohibitive but thanks.

Thanks. I asked the wrong question. But also interesting Rock Auto lists the same part for 3.0 and 4.0.

1999 3.0. Did a clutch job and just couldnt wiggle the trans out between the pipes so had to cut them. Rigged it up with flex pipe for now but need to replace the pipes. I am all diy so I’m looking for a reasonable replacement y pipe/cats. I’m wondering if I can use a later model 3.0 cat set up...

It seems the ‘inner’ piece isn't available so my dumb question is the only way to replace the bushings is to press them? Or just change to the one piece version? Tia

Question plz. I installed this set up on my 3.0 and it works great. The one thing I dont like is the way the pressure hose connects under the pump. The stock hose is way too long. Did you use the stock hose or did you find something shorter. I’ve developed a bad leak and as far as I can tell...

Would you look at that. Replaced the sender with the correct part number and it works. Thanks to RonD for helping me realize someone had put a two pin sender in there and the solution was to add a second wire for ground. I appreciate your help Ron and the forum always. Now on to the next thing.

Decided to replace the thermostat and broke the brittle other temp sensor so… replaced the second sensor with the new one and put the original old gauge sender back. Now the gauge actually shows signs of life. This is the first reading Ive had since Ive owned it for ~5 yrs. Usually it’s dead...

Two wire plug arrived today. I spliced the red wire and grounded the other wire to an intake bolt. Out for a drive now and still nothing. I’ll double check the ground but its the same place I grounded the red wire for the test. Swapped wires and more nothing. Maybe I have the wrong sender…

My old one had two pins so that’s what I got but maybe someone before me put the wrong one. I just cleaned out the threads and still nothing. I can connect the red wire to the batt neg and I get gauge. I grounded the brass base of the sender and nothing. I checked both pins with a test light and...

The new one came with what appeared to be a teflon coating on the threads. I’ll clean it off and go metal to metal. Thank you.

First thank you for the great info you share. In this case you helped me know where to start on my non working temp gauge. Maybe you could suggest my next step. I have one red/white wire. The gauge pegged at hot upon testing/grounding. I replaced the sender with motorcraft and still no gauge...

Developed an exhaust leak at my drivers side flange. I learned on this post there is not gasket/donut. I have another question. Does the flange use bolts or studs off the manifold. I want to be prepared before I tackle the rust. TIA

I had the vacuum hubs but they were not working before I got the truck so I do manually lock the front hubs when snow is expected etc. like you suggested. I just cut the brown wire and connected it also as you suggested. I appreciate the response and thank you for sharing your obvious wealth of...