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I don't like most import parts, but on something like the IAC, I might take a chance. The Duralast line used to be a good value, but in recent times they are not. If it is easy to replace again; go ahead and take the chance. If it's hard to replace, get a genuine Ford part if available.

Just a little ate here, but thanks, it was a fuse.

I have rebuilt and overhauled these engines before and I think the simplest overhaul is adequate for the 2.8. Theses engines last a long time and if, after a tear-down, you examine the block, crank, pistons and rods etc you may find having the pistons expanded and possibly the rods reconditioned...

When the 2.8 with the original smog stuff ran right, it ran great. I had to keep the original stuff because I am in California. Partds started getting hard to find many years ago and I'd hate to try and find some of those things today. (I sold my truck about 10 years ago) In other words, prepare...

All I can recommend is a manual. Chilton or Haynes has a shorten version of engine rebuilding and shouldnbe fine if you have some experience. Factory manuals are always the best BUT even those have some inaccuracies. I have used manuals on discs, but I don't like those and there are also on-line...

A note about Motorcraft plugs. They are all double platinum as far as I have seen on Ranger part numbers, They seemed to be listed as just "platinum" on the parts store computers but Ford makes them in double because of the coils on their engines.

Genuine Motorcraft starters are pretty much indestructible. I got a bad flywheel, made in China; changed starter gear to a gear with less teeth. The starters were all the same for several years so the nose depth should be right.

Trans bolts are a bit difficult but lots of extensions on hand make it a tolerable job. Actually the transmission jack is where I had trouble with the angled bottom slipping. (5 speed)

Good idea pulling off the front sheet metal; that saves time and helps prevent using strong language in front of that little girl.

Been thinking a bit: make sure those replacement rods weigh the same as the old ones or everything will be out of balance. Otherwise replace the crank, flywheel and balancer too. Unless they have the same part number, they may not weigh the same. Rods can be 565 0r 585 grams. Sorry that I...

There is a misunderstanding here because vapor lock is a fuel delivery problem. If air is getting in, then steam (or water) is getting out when it is warmed up. I'd guess water pimp and/or radiator. Drain your radiator and look at the coolant as it come out for starters. People are sayig the 4.0...

I'm surprised that a machine shop can't answer the bolt question, but as long as the rods have the same part numbers the bolts should be the same. I've seen mid-year changes with Ford but the parts should be the same if the numbers are the same. I seriously doubt there would be any out of...

258K is near the end of the engine life so don't be surprised if it fails sometime soon if you keep driving. The question you have to answer is: how important is reliability to you? Be sure it isn't a hose or fitting, but if that were the case, it would overheat or steam would come out when the...

You don't see tips like that in any manual!

If I recall correctly, no.

That's .40 over. As said before MEASURE before you order anything. My experience is that there is very little bore wear in these engines but double check. The .40 over, I'm sure, wasn't from ordinary wear.

Sold -

The Ranger disc has copies of the factory 2.9 manual along with 2.8 and 2.3 engines - also has transmission and rear end things with much other Ranger stuff.

I'll check when I get home tomorrow.

CD with repair information for 83 - 87 Ranger and Bronco II. Has other info as well to help 2.8 owners. $10. including shipping. This is not a factory disc.