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So here is a stupid question if the water into the oil pan was the result of a failed timing cover gasket would the water go almost directly into the oil pan. I only ask because it was like the water was going directly into the oil pan while I was filling the radiator without the engine running.

Yes sir. Disassembly and inspection was for sure the first planned step.

So I am considering a rebuild of a block I have (the original engine) and was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a quality kit. I don't know why I am so hesitant to let this truck go for good.

Well with the use of a telescoping magnet and going through the passenger side wheel well I finally got the socket on the bolt. I could then see where to put the extension on the socket from under the hood. I had her running great. Sounded good. On her first trip she stalled and wouldn't...

Problem is my bolt is 10mm

$150.00 bucks to anyone who wants to come set my timing. I have tried everything I can think of and cannot get on the hold down bolt!!

looks like it is the same on the 3.0. thinking back I don't remember one being there. But I have a terrible memory.

First off thanks for you service!! I have tried that on Rock auto but it appears from their diagram no gasket is needed at the manifold which strikes me very odd. Maybe I am just looking at it wrong.

Just wondering if anybody has a good part number for the exhaust donut at the exhaust manifold to the crossover pipe? I've tried several different part numbers and all I keep getting are ones that are too big any help is great thanks

I need the bolts that go to the exhaust manifolds to the cross over. Any help?

She is running. Lots of work left but at least I know she runs

No I will have to wait until tomorrow to get 2 more. No point putting it all back together until then.

Yes sir. 40psi. After remembering (don't know how I forgot) I own a fuel injector tester I pulled my injectors only to find all six are not working. Luckily I had some from the donor engine I was able to use as a control to verify my tester. All I can figure is when I cleaned the in preparation...

I verified spark and compression and my noid light indicates all six injectors are getting signal

I need to know if I need to remove the distributor to remove the fuel rail or can I just force it out. Another question is can a bad fuel pressure regulator show pressure at the rail but still keep the truck from starting?

So I went back and tested voltage and pulse at all the injectors. Also retested resistance and all 6 injectors are very close to each other. I pulled the fuel lines and tried blowing into the inlet and return side. No air passed through the inlet side but air and fuel passed through the return...

I figured it was bad idea

So I removed the plenum so I could check all the injector connections which brings up the question ,can I start it like that while trouble shooting?

So here is where I stand. I have 40 psi at the fuel rail. Engine will start and briefly run if I manually add fuel. The CEL light goes off while cranking and I have tested the injectors with a noid and they show they are firing. I checked the OHMS and each injector show between 13 and 14...

Okay. Thanks for the info. I drained most of the old fuel and replaced with new gas.