The axles seals were toast and on closer inspection so were the bearings. The axles were pretty trash too, but I installed these axle-saver bearings and I think that will get me down the road for a while.
Went for a breakfast burrito run this morning and the brake pedal went to the floor. Got it home and pulled the rear wheels. The right one had looked wet for a while, and I was planning on doing the axle seals but now I'm doing the brakes too.
Well, I figured it out. Nothing to do with the fuel pressure. When I changed the cam seal, I had the timing off a couple of teeth. I had to put the plastic timing cover back on (glad I kept it) to make sure it was at TDC and then used a rope between the cam bolt and aux sprocket to time the cam...
Trying to diagnose the running issues with the Ranger. Fuel pressure goes right to 37 PSI when priming and runs at about the same. It starts and idles OK until it starts to stumble, the exhaust gets smoky and the FP goes to 40 PSI. When it smooths out it goes back to 37 PSI. Also, when it shuts...
So I went back in and checked if the cam seal is leaking again and surprise, it is. Has anyone used a speedi-sleeve on the camshaft to address this. The cam nose is tapered a bit so not sure one would work.
Can anyone identify this sensor? It screws into a pocket in the intake but is not exposed to any vacuum or water. I can't find the part number in the Google machine. This is on a 1985 F.I. 2.3L
I replaced my cam seal but I think the problem lies from the groove around the cam from my "refurbished" cylinder head. When I reinstalled the cam seal I used some yamabond around the outside JIC. Something tells me I'll be going back in...
Thanks for the info Tom.
Yeah, she was my daughter's first car and then became the farm truck/motorcycle hauler/parts chaser. Still going strong (well, sort of) after 230K miles.
If you must remove it use a good penetrating oil (I like Kroil but you can make your own) over a period of days. Try to remove it when it's a little warm.
If it was mine I think I would leave it be.
Take it to a machine shop. A skilled machinist can tell you within minutes if the head is cracked. I was dropping off mine to be rebuilt and the mechanic walked by, stopped and looked at my old head with a flashlight and came over and said, "You know your head is cracked right?"
How fast do you want to go? Its just a question of how much you want to spend. Ford 2.3L Performance
Cheap mods are a decent exhaust and a K&N but you won't see much.
Just my opinion but these engines are pretty good stock, especially with the EFI. I have 223K on my bone-stock 85. Sure it...
The Ranger has been running great since I replaced the cylinder head. However it is doing something strange very consistently. It always starts right up but after a few miles it will start to misfire and buck a little. After 5-10 seconds it cleans up and keeps going. It does this 90% of the time...
Funny about the .380. I have a Makarov that is a joy to shoot. I also have a Beretta 85 that is a little "sharp" and not nearly as pleasant.
The Makarovs are great little guns and can be had fairly cheaply...
Yeah, old thread but you never know.. My daughter carries a Sig Sauer in .380 that is...
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