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Welcome to TRS! The folks here are so smart and patient. I’m sure you’ll get it running great again with everyone’s help. P.s your dad had great taste in trucks! 😉

Thanks all for the help. I’m still looking. I replaced most of the hoses last year but certainly can again. Tell me this. There are vacuum hoses going to the housing under the air filter. What do they do? Could it be leaking inside there?

I give that a try. Thanks. I did start pulling/pluging vacuum hoses to see if I could isolate which vacuum hose might be leaking and the one that had the biggest effect of dropping the idle was the MAP sensor. Is it possible that it could be leaking internally? If it was that would I be...

Strangely. I got the idle to settle down after I cleared the computer. But sprayed throttle body cleaner in the intake it shot up to 2k again and didn’t go back down. 🤦‍♂️

EGR valve checks out ok. I’m going to swap out the EGR pressure sensor since I have a warranty on it.

Thanks Franklin2. I’ll start there.

Gang, new problem this morning. High idle will not drop to normal after warm. Stays at about 2000 rpm. Pulled codes and got code 32. EGR not responding. Disconnected the IAC valve and had no change. What I did the night before… Looked at the air filter. Sprayed some soapy water on the pass...

“Lifted. Comes with trailer.” Apparently they use it for some sort of roll over simulation.

What year truck? What are the symptoms? Did the come on suddenly or gradually over time? Do they happen all the time or under certain conditions? Did they start right after you did something (changed fluids, slid off the road, etc)?

Welcome from East Tennessee!

This roll bar showed up in Facebook marketplace. Please direct questions to the owner in FB. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/142246891420397/

Yes, it settles down after a minute or two with no other symptoms. The issue happens only when cold. Starts on the first hit, it revs to 2000, when I put it in gear, it drops to like 500 and almost dies. After warm, all is well. The IAC is not a Motorcraft so that might be part of the issue.

Go to the auto parts store and get a can of brake clean spray. Clean everything off down there (don’t breathe it and wear eye protection). After a few days/trips get back under and see if you can tell where the leak is coming from.

Only cold starting.

What controls the fast idle when the motor is cold? IAC or computer or other? When starting up in the morning, the fast idle on my 86 2.9 is like 2000. Since it fires on the first hit I really hate running it that fast while cold. Thanks!

Welcome! There’s a bunch of really knowledgeable and patient folks here willing to help. Oh, we are gonna want to see pix… doesn’t matter if your Ranger is nice or well used.

Well Paulos, I gave the injector o-ring a try and it worked (fingers crossed). I really wish I knew what caused it to fail though. I did not lube it putting it in originally so I might have damaged it then. Thanks for the help all.

Well after 2 weeks of carefree driving the o-ring connecting the FPR to the fuel rail failed. Anyone know where to find another? I figured it is best to as y’all than the kid behind the counter

I thought I would share my fix in the hopes that I could help someone else. Symptoms: difficulty starting, loping idle, down on power, terrible gas mileage, no (OBD1) codes, terrible shutter at about 43 mph. I had a lot of red herrings since I was chasing some other bad sensors and vacuum...

Thanks so much guys! I don’t know what I would do without y’all’s knowledge.