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  1. 49-410-8 Cam Upgrade 93 Ranger XLT 4.0 OHV

    I sympathize with OP not wanting to bother replacing the cam. I have installed the COMP 410-8 Cam in my '95 4.0 OHV. So I can contribute a few notes for anyone reading this thread after the fact. 1. Worth it? The 410 cam is pretty mild, and the stock computer can deal with it just fine...
  2. 2.9L w/ MegaSquirt to 4.0L w/ Ecumaster Black and a Turbo build

    Looks good. As far as engine paint, orange always reminds me of Chevy. If you prefer the block be a brighter color, Ford Blue is always nice. My rebuild last year I painted the block black, sandblasted & clearcoated the aluminum parts, and painted the valve covers Ford Blue. Unfortunately...
  3. can you install a camshaft while the motor is in the vehicle?

    Are you asking about leaving the intake/heads in place on the motor? I don't think the 4.0 hydraulic roller lifters will fall out of the bottom of their bores, but their preload might give you trouble re-installing a new cam. They don't have a retention mechanism like a GM LS. I've only ever...
  4. cam synchro will not seat into oil pump drive

    Do you mean P0135? That's an O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. P1035 doesn't exist in the references I could find.
  5. Engine Damper

    Sarah'n'Tuned youtube series on her gram's 94 Ranger restoration shows that part. I don't recall exactly which video, but she mentions it and you might be able to freeze frame a part number.
  6. cam synchro will not seat into oil pump drive

    Extra RTV is not needed. The modern silicone impregnated plastic gaskets are pretty forgiving as long as the mating surfaces can apply even pressure, which is why proper torque is crucial. Thankfully they don't crack, blow-out, or become porous like old cork gaskets, so treatments like gasket...
  7. cam synchro will not seat into oil pump drive

    Re: Leaky Valve Covers I second Eddo Rogue's recommendation of giving the valve covers themselves a once over. Make sure the pan rails are not deformed by putting the cover on a flat surface and checking for gaps. Use a hammer and lightly massage any high spots. The thin sheet metal has a...
  8. Starting a sitting truck? Help!

    A bad EGR sensor should not cause a no-start. A bad MAF or ECT sensor could cause a no-start, usually from flooding, but the computer still has base maps that should start the engine (and run poorly) in comfortable weather. However if you're not getting a brief start with starting fluid that...
  9. cam synchro will not seat into oil pump drive

    That's the tech article for 94-95 cam synchronizers with the 180° vane sensor with window and vertical plug. A 2000 Ranger should have the plastic solid cap sensor with right angle plug, similar to 3.0L and 5.0L motors. More details here...
  10. Truck creaking on back end

    Most likely culprits for squeaking that only happens under suspension movement would be all the bushing locations. Shock mounts, spring eye bushings, sway bar links, carrier bearing. I would unbolt the bottom shock mount and see if the squeak goes away. If not, then spray down each bushing...
  11. 1997 XLT Door

    It's a clip that helps retain the back of the lockset. I've never heard of one squeaking or rattling, but anecdotes I guess are not data. Clip is #8, retains the lock cylinder #7.
  12. '95-'97 Radiators?

    I replaced my '95 4.0L (5spd, A/c) radiator last summer with this listing below on eBay. I just plugged the trans cooler ports, and the fitment was just fine. My original Motorcraft cap was still sealing OK, so I kept that instead of using the China special cap (literally covered in mandarin...
  13. Family Heirloom: The chronicles of Sarah's Ranger

    I actually watched the series. No she didn't crack into the bottom end of the motor. However it's an original 4.0 with no issues, has less than 100,000 miles, and drove successfully across country within the past year. Even so, she did replace the main seals, timing cover gaskets, water pump...
  14. Oil dip stick tube

    I'm pretty sure your '93 is basically the same as my '95. The dipstick is a press fit in a hole in the block just above the pan rail, on the driver's side, just rear-ward of the left motor-mount bracket. It's oriented straight up and down (front to back) and follows the V-angle of the engine...
  15. Ticking

    I speak from experience, the 4.0 OHV has hydraulic roller lifters, solid ball-end pushrods, and shaft mounted rockers with non-roller tips. The oiling system did not change drastically from the 2.9. Oil flows from the cam shaft to additional oil galleys that pressurize the lifters, then through...
  16. Ticking

    Worn roller lifters in a 4.0 OHV are pretty unlikely. Odds are the hydraulic internals are gummed up. Plus rocker arms and pushrods are like $4-5 for a set of four, while lifters are $30-40 a piece. The question is, what kind of budget are we talking about here? Parts? Labor? Time? To the...
  17. Thicker oil I can run in my 1996 4.0 OHV

    Opinions about oil on the internet are so numerous to the point of absurdity. For the most part, oil is oil - keep it clean, keep it full - and you'll be fine. That being said, unless you're towing or racing and revving your motor to the moon out in a hot desert, a high viscosity oil in a 4.0...
  18. Rattling shaking sound

    If it's only audible at low speed under load, it could still be something in the accessory drive, or you could also look for loose brackets around the motor or exhaust that contact when the engine twists on the mounts. If it's the same quality of sound every time, you can search for it while...
  19. Clutch pedal issue

    That definitely sounds like a clutch system leak, but it could be either the clutch master, or the slave. If there's little to no resistance at the start of pedal travel, there's definitely air in the system. I've replaced both slave and master cylinders in ALL my Rangers (multiple times...
  20. Oil filter thread insert

    If you have the stock Ford angle adapter with it's hollow bolt and o-ring, then I wouldn't worry about destroying the old pipe nipple that's screwed into the block. Just reef down on it with pipe wrench or a big vice grip pliers and unscrew it. The only chance of removing it cleanly would be...

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