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I'd be willing to bet the lower ball joints are the squeekers. If they have no zerks, they are likely original. I got a lot nicer ride on my old 2000 2.5 2wd by replacing the shocks and going with a wider/shorter tire set. I went with 235/65-16 and ditched the 225/75-15s (I think). It really...

My 2000 3.0 4wd MO5D came with 245/75-16 tires and 4.10 gears. It rode jouncy and gave average performance. Years ago, I put a set of Explorer take-offs (Craigslist) Dueler AT Revos, 235/75-15. They woke that truck up nicely, with better take-offs and 5th gear was more responsive. I had to...

They are the same engine, but there may be some differences through that many model years. Use what came on the old engine if you find any differences.

Most auto parts stores will test your alternator for free, while it is still installed. I'd start there, just to rule it out. While you are there, pick up a fuel filter and replace that.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116658 I've seen a lot of old vinyl floor mats as gap guards. Unless you are referring to the actual inner fender liners. There are parts mounted to those. Junkyard! (I have a set of those from a 90, but won't ship them).

22 ohms for Empty 145 for Full That's from 2000, don't know if it changed by 03.

I'm gonna guess wiring issue that gets aggravated by romping on it. Try wiggling the wiring to that circuit, along with the other major engine harnesses that could flex with engine torque. Look for a loose fuse too.

It means you have gone through enough drive cycles without the problem occurring to convince the PCM to turn the CEL off.

I got a 93 really cheap with that symptom. Its transmission was virtually dry/empty and the excess heat (I presume) made the slave quit working after about a mile. I put a replacement trans with a new slave in it. Yours might just be a bad slave (or less commonly, the Master) but you should...

I strongly suspect they are EXACTLY the same. Mid-year 01 s when they started putting in the 2.3 Duratech, if I'm not mistaken. If you do find anything different, use your old engine parts/wiring. If nothing else, take a bunch of photos of the 01 and compare them to yours. I seriously doubt...

Large diameter tube? Could be PCV.

If it urns out to be an EGR DPFE tube, they are high temperature silicone, not just any tubing will do for replacing that. You're really going to have to track down its end and be more specific.

http://www.toolbarn.com/blackdecker-g950c.html

Pull your dash apart, look at it, get numbers off it, whatever, to match what you find in the JY. Then you'll know which tools to take, how to access it, etc. before you get there. I'd guess 99 and up Explorers, but have no idea about the newer years...

Wow, that's a nice result! My "guess" is the slop in the stick was affecting the engagement fork position for second gear, making it sing.

Forgot to mention plug that open line (vacuum leak when EGR commanded open).

Disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR valve and drive it like that for a day. If that cures the stuttering, replace the DPFE, reconnect the vacuum line and clear the computer memory by disconnecting the battery and turning the headlights on, then off, reconnect. Let it relearn the idle by...

Congratulations! Welcome to the world, Owen.

"Also, my a/c goes to the defrosters at anything harder than 1/4 throttle. This seems to be the norm with these. I checked the system all tested fine. This engine just doesn't like making vacuum above 2000 rpm." ^Smoking gun. You have a vacuum reservoir with a checkvalve that prevents the...

At the very least, you should test the IAC. Note rpm at idle, then select AC on and see rise in rpm. Disconnect IAC and note drop in rpm (may even stall). I hear what you're saying with the TB blade seal and IAC. But I can tell you for a fact that a 2000 3.0 WILL idle with a solid gasket...