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Tractors


snoranger

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All Fords
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rusty ol ranger

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Michigan
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
177 CID
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
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A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...

ericbphoto

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Age
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Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
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snoranger

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I didn't ask for your life story, just answer the question!
It's pretty rare. Not sure why it was even brought up.
It seemed like a “can we please get back on topic for the rest of this page” comment.
 

racsan

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Location
central ohio
Vehicle Year
2009
Make / Model
ford/escape
Engine Type
2.5 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.5/151 I-4
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
235/70/16
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the grey-t escape
Oil has evolved a lot since the factory recommendation was out for that and most older tractors. I personally run rotella 15-40 in both my tractors and 303 hydraulic oil in the allis. Ive yet to change the hydraulic/transmission oil in the ford tractor but will probably go with a universal hydraulic fluid from tsc. Sure you can still run straight 30 in the engine, but its a bit thick when its cold out.
 

scotts90ranger

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Dayton Oregon
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1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
The being designed for ethanol fuel thing shouldn't be a huge issue, likely the only rubber component of the carb would be the float seat and if it doesn't have a copper fuel line like most had back then then the ~1' of fuel hose... like said most tractors were like 6:1 with basically unbalanced engines maxing out at like 1800rpm, it's not a high performance precise working system :)
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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Butler, PA, USSA
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Ford
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If you can get ethanol free gas that isn't a lot more expensive than regular, yes use it as those engines back then were never introduced to ethanol fuels. As for a lead substitute no, its not needed, however it would be a good idea to add a zinc additive to your engine oil when you change it. 10w-30 would be fine year round in most cases unless you live where it gets well below zero for weeks or months on end and your tractor is sitting out in the middle of the weather.

A regular old gear oil will work for the transmission, but I'd think you'd want hydraulic fluid for the hydraulics not gear oil.
From what I understand of the transmission/hydraulic/axle is that it’s all connected because you check the fluid level in the hydraulic section for all three and the fill port is in the transmission…
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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4.9L
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Manual
Oil has evolved a lot since the factory recommendation was out for that and most older tractors. I personally run rotella 15-40 in both my tractors and 303 hydraulic oil in the allis. Ive yet to change the hydraulic/transmission oil in the ford tractor but will probably go with a universal hydraulic fluid from tsc. Sure you can still run straight 30 in the engine, but its a bit thick when its cold out.
That’s kinda what I figured. Pretty sure I can still get straight 30 but I was trying to get at is it absolutely needed to stick with that or is there a different option. I know diesel oil (15-40) is usually higher in zinc and gear oil is usually something like 80/90 weight
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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Butler, PA, USSA
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Ford
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Manual
It seemed like a “can we please get back on topic for the rest of this page” comment.
That was it, I was tired of the argument when I had tractor questions
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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Ford
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Manual
The being designed for ethanol fuel thing shouldn't be a huge issue, likely the only rubber component of the carb would be the float seat and if it doesn't have a copper fuel line like most had back then then the ~1' of fuel hose... like said most tractors were like 6:1 with basically unbalanced engines maxing out at like 1800rpm, it's not a high performance precise working system :)
Non-ethanol isn’t overly hard to get here, usually costs same as premium, but I know a lot of older engines were designed to run leaded gas or you destroy valves and stuff, so I was wondering how important each would be. I don’t know how much gas I’ll burn through with it, but non ethanol is not a huge problem as long as I don’t find myself dumping 20 gallons a week through it or something. Not sure what the gas line is for sure, but I was debating making a new one
 

rusty ol ranger

Im a Jeep guy now.
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Location
Michigan
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
177 CID
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
Straight 30 is pretty common in lawn mowers. Should be easy to get.
 

wildbill23c

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Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
215/70-R14
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19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
That’s kinda what I figured. Pretty sure I can still get straight 30 but I was trying to get at is it absolutely needed to stick with that or is there a different option. I know diesel oil (15-40) is usually higher in zinc and gear oil is usually something like 80/90 weight
Straight 30 weight oil is out there, not very common to find on the oil shelves at auto parts stores, but I'm sure Tractor Supply probably or other tractor parts/accessories stores probably have it. I know its in the lawn/garden section at Tractor supply by the quart. Might be a wise choice to go with the diesel engine oil I think Shell Rotella T4? Is the diesel oil.

Gear oil is typically a 80/90 weight, but I've seen 140 occasionally as well for HD applications, which I wouldn't consider the tractor to be.

I think it would be a more important aspect if it has fluids in it period, than get too particular with what viscosity. You could go with the straight 30 weight, and see how it does then adjust from there of course. Given how old your tractor is, the 5 gallon buckets of generic hydraulic fluid should suit your needs just fine, and quite a bit cheaper than at the dealership. Not sure if your tractor has hydraulic filters but don't forget those if it has them.
 

racsan

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Location
central ohio
Vehicle Year
2009
Make / Model
ford/escape
Engine Type
2.5 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.5/151 I-4
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
235/70/16
My credo
the grey-t escape
I doubt that tractor has a hydraulic filter, if anything (since its based off a N series ford) it might have a screen attached to the drain plug, I know a N series engine drain plug is that way but I don’t recall about the hydraulic/transmission “main plug” Its possible you have multiple drain plugs for the back end, N-series ford has at least 2, possibly 3. Im only bringing “N-series ford” into this because harry ferguson based his tractor off of the N-series. Yes the engine is different (flathead vs ohv) but most of the rest of it is very similar to those fords from ‘39-‘51.
In case you dont know what Im referring to, heres dads ‘46 2N, bought new by his parents the year he was born. First picture was about 1977, 2nd picture was just a couple of years ago after I gave it a refresh and paint.
E1366DA8-983A-4836-946C-FD59C24D7D80.jpeg
DC52DE20-BAE6-42CD-A665-DFA5BB545C55.jpeg
 

Weasel

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Location
Canada
Vehicle Year
2008
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XL
Transmission
Automatic
I don't have a tractor. Well, maybe. I have a Ryobi electric riding lawnmower. It works only when it wants to. Sometimes the blades work, sometimes they don't and I've not yet been able to figure out why. The diagnostics tells me they should be running.

Last year, blowing out the deck (air) and it worked. This year it was notta. No sensors to cause a problem. It's the weirdest thing.

Fortunately, the dry summer meant that mowing wasn't needed often, which is good because my one push mower won't start when the engine is hot (automatic choke), another one I had to move the engine to a smaller deck. The push rechargeable one, however, hasn't had any issues. The second riding mower, an older Honda, has become a lawn decoration (The belt is a PITA to put on)

End babble.
 

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