2.3L ('83-'97) No crank with key, starter works, solenoid good

[JoshT]

I got the timing components reinstalled on my project yesterday. Borrowed the battery from my F-100 to test it out. 1985 Ranger 2.3L A4LD 2wd. Just a reminder, there was no before to compare it to, I bought it with the engine in pieces.

Transmission in Park, foot on brake (shouldn't matter), turn key, nothing. Well I can't say nothing. With the switch in run everything seems to work, so getting power into the cab and ignition switch. I'm pretty certain that I heard the fuel pump running, but I don't think there's any gas in it at the moment. When I turn the key on over to start, the engine doesn't crank. I can jump the start post on the solenoid and it spins right over, coil disconnected of course. Won't turn over with the key.

Now when I turn ket to run I don't get any KOEO warning lamps on the dash (IE: brake, CEL), but I don't remember if these do that. When I turn the key over to start, the parking brake light does illuminate. But since I have power coming into the cab and acessories work with in the run position, I'm thinking the ignition switch is probably ok.

Only other thing I can come up with between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid is the neutral safety switch. Costs around $60, and I don't exactly fit under the truck to replace it. Truck is parked out in the yard, no safe way to get it in the air at the moment. Before I spend the money on a switch and go through the effort of getting the thing on stands, is there anying else I should check that could be causing this? Anything easier to check than getting it up on stands on an unstable surface?

 

[franklin2]

Why don't you leave the key on and jump the solenoid to see if it will start? If you can get it running, that might give you more options to relocate and get it up in the air. JUST MAKE SURE IT'S IN PARK.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Check to see if you have power to the small terminal on the solenoid with key in start position. If you do then solenoid is probably bad.
You can jump the NSS. Unplug it and run a jumper wire from one side to the other.

 

[JoshT]

Why don't you leave the key on and jump the solenoid to see if it will start? If you can get it running, that might give you more options to relocate and get it up in the air. JUST MAKE SURE IT'S IN PARK.

I thought I said in the OP that I could do that. Engine spins over when I jump the start post on the solenoid. I'd just like something more convenient that I can just use the key switch, rather than running back and forth.

I might make an extended remote start switch that I can use sitting in the cab. I had/have one but can't use it since a rat chewed the connectors off. I ordered new clamps as I was walking into work this morning, should arrive in a day or two. Might have to add a removable extension so I can use it sitting in the cab, but not have a lot of excess when under the hood.

Definitely make sure it's in park or neutral first. At the moment it doesn't matter much because there's no driveshaft installed. I can just barely fit under the back to install a driveshaft, but front is too low to get at the transmission.

Check to see if you have power to the small terminal on the solenoid with key in start position. If you do then solenoid is probably bad.
You can jump the NSS. Unplug it and run a jumper wire from one side to the other.

I already verified the solenoid is good. Once again, thought I said that in the OP. If not, I apologize for the oversight.

Jumped from positive battery post to the "s" terminal in the solenoid. Spun (cranked/turned) over no problem, just won't do it with the key. It didn't try start and run because plugs are removed, coil disconnected, and I think it ain't got no gas in it.

The problem with using a jumper at the NSS is the same as replacing the NSS. No room to get under the truck, and ground is too unstable to use jack stands right there. Was hoping someone might be able to direct me to a more accessable location or connector to bypass at.

I'll probably just fix and extend the wires on my remote start switch so it can be used in the cab. As @franklin2 said, that would let me move it to a more stable place to put it on stands once I have it running.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I thought I said in the OP that I could do that. Engine spins over when I jump the start post on the solenoid. I'd just like something more convenient that I can just use the key switch, rather than running back and forth.

I might make an extended remote start switch that I can use sitting in the cab. I had/have one but can't use it since a rat chewed the connectors off. I ordered new clamps as I was walking into work this morning, should arrive in a day or two. Might have to add a removable extension so I can use it sitting in the cab, but not have a lot of excess when under the hood.

Definitely make sure it's in park or neutral first. At the moment it doesn't matter much because there's no driveshaft installed. I can just barely fit under the back to install a driveshaft, but front is too low to get at the transmission.



I already verified the solenoid is good. Once again, thought I said that in the OP. If not, I apologize for the oversight.

Jumped from positive battery post to the "s" terminal in the solenoid. Spun (cranked/turned) over no problem, just won't do it with the key. It didn't try start and run because plugs are removed, coil disconnected, and I think it ain't got no gas in it.

The problem with using a jumper at the NSS is the same as replacing the NSS. No room to get under the truck, and ground is too unstable to use jack stands right there. Was hoping someone might be able to direct me to a more accessable location or connector to bypass at.

I'll probably just fix and extend the wires on my remote start switch so it can be used in the cab. As @franklin2 said, that would let me move it to a more stable place to put it on stands once I have it running.

My apologies, I misread your post. But do you get 12v at the wire at the S-terminal? Find the color and trace back to your ignition switch. The switch on the column, not the key. Lower column by the gas pedal. I've seen those switch fall apart. Or maybe the switch needs adjustment up or down.

 

[JoshT]

Don't know. It's kind of hard to stand at the solenoid with a multi meter and turn the key at the same time. I live alone. No close neighbors or rear by friends to lend a hand. Don't have test leads that will reach that far. Might fix that too since I have a bunch of clamps coming and should have some primary, or even speaker, wire lying around.

As for the column switch I haven't tried to probe up in there, but if it's bad the only thing bad is the start ciruit. Everything that is supposed to work when the key is on run or accessory appears to work like its supposed to. Not sure what you mean by this:

"The switch on the column, not the key. Lower column by the gas pedal."

I only know of one ignition switch on these and it's the one at the key. I'll pull out the diagrams and see if I missed something when I get the chance.

Looks like I'm going to be swamped with school work through the week, so maybe I'll be able to get around to some more investigating this weekend. Monday if nothing else since Juneteenth is a thing now.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The ignition key turns a rod that runs down the steering column to the switch somewhere just above the gas pedal. On the ones I've looked at it's a white plastic piece. Iirc about 2.5" by 1.5". Maybe its different on yours...and it's been a few years since I looked at one and my memory isn't great.

 

[JoshT]

I'll have to look. It's been a long time since I pulled apart a first gen dash, but I've been into both an 84 and an 86 column before, also scrounged through several in the junkyards back in the day, and don't remember anything like that. I just remember a half melted connector at the key switch on one of them. Only white piece of plastic that I can recall off hand is the key release button for removing the key, but it's just opposite the key on the bottom and not electrical.

I'll take a look when I get the chance, fortunately I've got spare parts for something like that if they are the same between fixed and tilt column. I would think that it should be.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

You may have to drop the column and remove a cover to see it. Like you, it's been a long time.