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Front corner spring sag?


Chapap

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I measured as best as I could with my hand and found that the front left sags about 1.5” lower than the right. I assume the coil spring is the issue, but I want to see what all I should check to make sure this isn’t an actual problem. I’m replacing a radius arm (shock mount sheared off) and could replace the springs while I’m at it. The missing shock is on the sagging side, but it doesn’t seem like that would cause it to be so lop-sided tho.

1994 single cab
 


09fx4guy

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Chances are that it wouldn't be the shock. The shock only controls motion, it does not support the weight of the vehicle.

It sounds like what you are suffering from is what they used to call "Bachelor lean". The side that the driver sits on will sag more because there is an additional 150-200lbs or more of weight on that side.

Are the springs original? How many miles are on them?

Honestly, if you are replacing parts, you might as well replace the springs at the same time.
 

RustyShackleford94

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Did you measure fender to ground or frame to ground? Rusted out body mounts/ core supports can make it seem saggy. If its the original spring it could be the spring wearing overtime from the weight of the driver and fuel tank on that side. Let us know what ya figure out because mines saggy like that too lol
 

Chapap

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1.5” till I get these springs replaced
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The side that the driver sits on will sag more because there is an additional 150-200lbs or more of weight on that side.
I’m going to need to upgrade to HD suspension if that’s the case ;missingteeth;

I measured fender to top of tire… just kinda checked how much hand I could get in the gap. I’ll have to find a nice flat spot to get some actual body amd frame measurements and look at the mounts. They look to be original springs, 145k and 27 yrs. I figured the shock might add a few lbs if upforce, and this truck is so easy to bounce and rock it wouldn’t take much for it to get uneven.
 

09fx4guy

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I’m going to need to upgrade to HD suspension if that’s the case ;missingteeth;

I measured fender to top of tire… just kinda checked how much hand I could get in the gap. I’ll have to find a nice flat spot to get some actual body amd frame measurements and look at the mounts. They look to be original springs, 145k and 27 yrs. I figured the shock might add a few lbs if upforce, and this truck is so easy to bounce and rock it wouldn’t take much for it to get uneven.
I'm part of that club too. When I put new torsion bars on mine, I upgraded from B to #1 for the extra support.
 

Chapap

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Just measured. It’s only 1” to 1.25” low on the left. About the same on the rear too. All measurements point to weak spring. Measured body, coil tower, and frame near radius arm mount.
 

Chapap

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So rock auto has Moog and Husky for brand options the front, both with 1323 and 1447 lbs options. I’m leaning toward the heavier one and the Husky brand (don’t really know why the brand).

The rear spring load options are 1100, 1250, and 1750. That’s sure a big jump to the heavy one. I’d imagine 1100 is stock, but my truck seems to really feel it when I climb in the bed. I’d at least get the 1200# I think, but would it be worth trying the heavy springs just because, or would it needlessly ruin the ride quality? Also, I’m assuming leafs are sold individually?
 

09fx4guy

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I would look at the moog for the front, from my experience their springs are decent. Also, now might be the time to look and see if you wanted to put a small (1") lift in the truck while you have it apart. If you would ever want to go that route, do it now.

For the rear, I would look at the 1700lb if you ever plan on using the bed to carry anything. Usually the springs are of equivalent size, but the higher rated ones carry more weight before they sag, but may have a little more harsh ride. Granted, a Ranger does not ride like a Cadillac to begin with. They are usually sold individually as well, and may or may not come with bushings. You should replace those as well.
 

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You could use the 1250’s and put helper springs underneath. They wouldn’t engage until your load required them.

-Jazzer
 

Chapap

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So I was curious about the 2/1 vs 3/1 springs since the rating difference is only 100#. I found a site called General Spring and asked about it. This was his response.

“Sounds like you have it figured out. The 2/1 and 3/1 are stock replacements and ride similar to each other. The 4/1 is our heavy duty spring which is stronger than anything Ford put out for the Ranger. It will ride firmer but hold up much better for hauling and towing. Depending on what you do with the truck is what spring you should get.”

I also read that, for the same load rating, more leafs will ride smoother than fewer leafs… or is it leaves?
 
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ggomez2

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I'm part of that club too. When I put new torsion bars on mine, I upgraded from B to #1 for the extra support.
Doing front end of my 08 FX4 (upper and lower arms and ball joints, wheel bearings) and afraid may have rust issues getting my "B" torsion bars out. Do you recommend just going up to the #1 bars or should I stick to the stock "B" that my truck came with? I am running no lift and no plans for one, Bilstein 4600 (?) shocks installed recently (>3000 miles). Any advice on doing the job?
 

09fx4guy

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ggomez2- If you are going to put new torsion bars in, I would get the #1 bars. You don't have to lift the truck with them. If anything, you will not have to crank the torsion keys as much. When they sag after a bit of mileage, you will be able to bring the ride height back to where you want it without maxing out the adjustment. There should not be too many rust issues to get the bars out, but start soaking them ahead of time with penetrating oil. You will need the torsion bar unloading tool, or a large c clamp. If you let the suspension completely relax (hang down) you should not have too much trouble getting the old bars out.

I have to do ball joints / control arms and wheel bearings soon myself, hopefully in the spring.
 

Chapap

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Total Drop
1.5” till I get these springs replaced
Tire Size
225-70-R14
If coils are saggy, is the torsion bar also suspect? And just to make sure, that’s the bar that stretches from one wheel to the other right?… reducing the independent-ness of the two wheels?
 

Roert42

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If coils are saggy, is the torsion bar also suspect? And just to make sure, that’s the bar that stretches from one wheel to the other right?… reducing the independent-ness of the two wheels?

On trucks with Torsion bars there are no springs, the torsion bars ( 2 ) go from a mount on the frame to the lower control arm. This is the spring.

What you are thinking of is the anti-sway bar. that should not have much effect on ride height, just body roll when going around corners.
 

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