Restoring coolant reservoir?

[Chapap]

My reservoir is so stained that I can’t see the coolant level. I have to pop the cap off and shine a light to see where it is. I figure I could drill a couple holes and add a sight tube (possible leak problem) or try to clean it. This is the only successful cleaning process I found, but no directions are given. He only gives ingredients used. Anyone have any ideas as to what to do? This appears to clean it, but does it destroy the plastic?

1. Sulphamic acid mix
2. Sonax ultra cleaner
2. Dishwasher salt

 

[09fx4guy]

The easiest thing to do may be to just pick up a replacement one. I think the ones for your truck are readily available. You can also check some junkyards, they are usually cheap and sometimes you can get lucky and find ones in good shape.

 

[Dirtman]

Replace the reservoir and flush the crap out of the cooling system because if the reservoir got that dirty the inside of the rest of the cooling system is undoubtedly far worse.

 

[RonD]

I use a Bottle brush and vinegar solution to clean these

But yes, you can often find similar combo overflow/washer tanks in wrecking yards in better shape, they are not specific to Rangers, these were used on many Ford models of similar years

 

[Blmpkn]

I'd just buy a new universal one off ebay/Amazon. Under 20$ shipped for a plastic one and right around 30 for an aluminum one.

 

[Dirtman]

It's not a degas system so the overflow is just a unpressurized tank. Like Ron and Blmpkin said you can use pretty much any tank that you can make fit. And remember to always believe in yourself.

 

[RobbieD]

Agree 100%, that if the overflow tank is nasty, the cooling system itself needs a close check, and likely flushing or other attention.

My overflow tank was so nasty I didn't know if it was salvageable, but now it's like new. The trick is getting a brush in there. Like RonD I used a small, long twisted-wire bottle brush, which can be bent to reach all parts of the tank's insides, working through the fill hole.

 

[Chapap]

I’ve basically ordered a new cooling system… radiator, hcore, tstat & housing, pump, hoses. Gave the radiator a flush already and put in a bottle of cleaner stuff. Going to do a simple flush a couple more times before all the parts get here, then I’ll do an actual engine flush once I have the tstat out. Guess I’ll find a better tank at the junk yard. I’m still curious about that bleaching acid. Might get a couple and see if I can make one look new.

 

[RonD]

Yes, small can of "elbow grease" and a bottle brush will do wonders for overflow tanks
The bendable metal ones are the best

 

[tinman_72]

Remove the reservoir, put a wet soapy rag in it, put the cap on, plug any holes and shake the heck out of it.

 

[Jazzer]

Or shake with a lot of salt and 91% iso alcohol. For the abrasiveness of the salt.

 

[cbxer55]

And after it's clean, don't ignore it anymore. My 98 is 23 years old, I've owned it 21 years. Overflow tank is still pristine. I've drained and changed the coolant only twice in that time. Second time was last year. Bottle is a bit "foggy", but can still easily see the level of the fluid within it.

My 04 Lightning has polished aluminum tanks for the radiator and intercooler. I made up home made dipsticks for that application.

 

[Cheburashka]

Yeah mine's pretty disgusting too. I did a full system flush last year and tried to clean it to the best of my abilities but it's just too far gone at this point. I'll probably replace it. New ones are pretty cheap and they come with a bonus of a new windshield washer tank as well.

 

[Dirtman]

IF you are going to neglect It use better coolant. Motorcraft gold can go for near 10 years without getting nasty. Your typical ole fashion cheap green coolant is really only made for about 2 years before it breaks down and allows rust and gunk to form. They both work just as good as far as cooling goes, but gold simply lasts alot longer. I've changed the coolant on my truck once in 12 years and the system is immaculate using Motorcraft gold.

 

[Chapap]

Obligatory disclaimer: you can’t mix this stuff.
So my takeaway from the plethora of types out there, the 3 main American ones (used by many foreign males too) are:

Green (Inorganic Acid): Best for corrosion resistance for 2 years. After that it breaks down and becomes conductive making it corrosive

Orange (Organic Acid): Just fine, lasts longer, isn’t conductive, has sludg problems… i.e. DexKill

Yellow (Hybrid Organic): Nearly as good for corrosion as green, isn’t conductive like orange, and no sludge problems.

There’s others but I haven’t found dumbed down explanations of them. As far as I know, but can’t quite confirm, yellow is the best there is, has no down sides (maybe more $ than green), and every vehicle should be transitioned to it, especially if you have OAT DexKill. Green is fine, but I’m not going to remember to change it every two years.