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Shopping for new leaf springs need advice


Eddo Rogue

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Maybe just stay with the lighter springs... then go with air bags to level when loaded.
I thought of that,but will probably do that to the F150, which is way more my work and tow rig...
 


sgtsandman

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My 2011 came with the 1250# and I didn't think they were to harsh of a ride. Your truck will be of similar weight to my 2011. The 31X10.5R15 tires soften the ride some too if you are running tire pressures to what is on the door sticker. If the tires are class C like my KOs, the door jamb pressure is all you need and is actually a little high. They should be at 33 psi instead of 35 but 35 is easier to read on my tire gauge. The only time I've needed to air them up to 40 psi is when I have a full bed of firewood or 1,350# of retaining wall block in the bed but I am also running 1,750# springs now instead of the OEM 1,250# ones. I've found running 40 psi in an empty truck makes the handling squirrely. 35 psi improved things greatly.
 

Eddo Rogue

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My 2011 came with the 1250# and I didn't think they were to harsh of a ride. Your truck will be of similar weight to my 2011. The 31X10.5R15 tires soften the ride some too if you are running tire pressures to what is on the door sticker. If the tires are class C like my KOs, the door jamb pressure is all you need and is actually a little high. They should be at 33 psi instead of 35 but 35 is easier to read on my tire gauge. The only time I've needed to air them up to 40 psi is when I have a full bed of firewood or 1,350# of retaining wall block in the bed but I am also running 1,750# springs now instead of the OEM 1,250# ones. I've found running 40 psi in an empty truck makes the handling squirrely. 35 psi improved things greatly.
Oh yea I forgot to mention that. I am running Falken wildpeak LT's that call for 55psi and I run em at 40. They seem fine, just a little squirrely empty like you said. I will definitely go something higher than the 1100...Probably 1250.

I saw those heavy duty 1750's too, how do they ride?
 

Eddo Rogue

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From what I could find, stock free arch for 1100lb springs is 6.5"
 

sgtsandman

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Oh yea I forgot to mention that. I am running Falken wildpeak LT's that call for 55psi and I run em at 40. They seem fine, just a little squirrely empty like you said. I will definitely go something higher than the 1100...Probably 1250.

I saw those heavy duty 1750's too, how do they ride?
They can be rough. The 31's help some with the ride due to the inceased sidewall flex. Some of the roughness might be attributed to the replacement shocks as well. While doing the suspension work, I installed Rancho RS5000X series heavy duty shocks. It only gets annoying on some of the rougher PA pot hole roads. Generally, I don't find the rougher ride to be all that bad. There certainly is a marked difference in ride compared to the OEM shocks and springs.

See if you can look up the original tires and load rating. Take the max psi at that load rating and divide the load rating by the psi to get the load capacity of the tire at 1 psi. Do the same for your current tires. Get the load the OEM tires were set to based off the recommended psi on the door. You can then figure out what your current tires pressure needs to be at for that same load rating. Chances are, it will be close to the original recommendation but every tire is different and it's better to run the math to be sure. My guess is that 40 psi is still too high for what you need and I would only look at bumping them up if the load you are carrying is going to exceed what the normal pressure can handle.

I have also found that the higher pressures don't do much to help with fuel economy. So, why deal with a less steady and harsher ride if you don't need too?
 

Eddo Rogue

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Crossed threads are tight threads.
I was thinking of going bilstein for shocks. I have the skyjackers that came w/ the leveling kit up front and they seem fine. The tires do ride a lil I will take your suggestions and try to fiddle w pressures. The LT's ride harsh but I have trauma from sidewall tears both on and off road, and seeing rims prctically touching pavement under a heavy load (whilst the springs were fine)....so now I run lT's on everything....My F150 has same tires but rated for 80psi, but I run em at 55, a little harshness and bumpsteer...but I like the tire shrugging off heavy loads and sidewall stabs.
 

sgtsandman

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I was thinking of going bilstein for shocks. I have the skyjackers that came w/ the leveling kit up front and they seem fine. The tires do ride a lil I will take your suggestions and try to fiddle w pressures. The LT's ride harsh but I have trauma from sidewall tears both on and off road, and seeing rims prctically touching pavement under a heavy load (whilst the springs were fine)....so now I run lT's on everything....My F150 has same tires but rated for 80psi, but I run em at 55, a little harshness and bumpsteer...but I like the tire shrugging off heavy loads and sidewall stabs.
Bilsteins come in heavy duty and lighter versions. With you having a lift, I have no idea what is available. They are a good brand though.

In the end, it’s your call on the tire pressure. There is no harm in going higher than needed as long as your road grip is good.
 

gaz

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Eddo:

I recommend using a set of Explorer spring packs. I've used 94's but I have read the the springs were improved in 95, then again in 97 but they are all spring steel, just keep adding leaves until it sits and rides how you want

You will way need a new set of longer U-bolts, the last set of springs I bought from the yard were $45 and the place near me that makes custom U-bolts wanted $22 for the set.
 

Eddo Rogue

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skyjacker front leveling kit
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My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
Eddo:

I recommend using a set of Explorer spring packs. I've used 94's but I have read the the springs were improved in 95, then again in 97 but they are all spring steel, just keep adding leaves until it sits and rides how you want

You will way need a new set of longer U-bolts, the last set of springs I bought from the yard were $45 and the place near me that makes custom U-bolts wanted $22 for the set.
Oh yea good idea, I totally forgot to consider explorer springs. I got an off road shop buddy that could get me u bolts, and would probably order springs new. Would this setup let me eliminate the factory blocks?
 

sgtsandman

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I believe so. Explorer springs are setup to have the axle mounted over the spring instead of under it. So, I think the springs have more of an arch to compensate. Whether it's enough to eliminate the blocks or not. It depends on how big your block are.
 

gaz

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My credo
Deengineer until it is how Blue Oval should have sold it!!
Eddo:

I was examining those packs I built this afternoon. I used the Explorer main spring, then the next 3 largest that I had between the BII pack and the Explorer's with the Explorer's overload spring underneath, no blocks and it sits just a hair higher than level, with the 4" suspension lift on the front.

Both stock spring packs were 3 leaves plus an overload so now it has 4 leaves plus the overload and sits as though it were a 4" suspension pack.

The ride is not harsh but the rear does stay well planted.
 
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