3.0 shuts down after a minute

[welltal89]

Hi all,

I've got a manual 5-speed 97 Ranger with a 3.0 and 273k miles.

Wanted to create this thread to document for myself what I will be doing to help solve my start-run-die issue I'm having. The truck will start and run for a little bit, only to shut itself down after about a minute or so. I have the battery on a trickle charger, had it checked at Advance auto, and confirmed with my multimeter that the battery is not the issue. My next step is to take the alternator out and get it checked to see if it's in need of replacement.

At this point, I'm just trying to get it to run and it seems (without doing a whole lot else) that the charging system is in need of attention. Not in a rush since it isn't my daily, but I also don't have a whole lot of time to work on it since my wife and I just bought our house that needs a little bit more attention. Anyone else have this issue in the past? Thanks in advance!

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If it starts then dies then still cranks after chances are its not the charging system.

Whens the last time it had a fuel filter?

 

[RonD]

Set your meter to DC Volts and test the battery voltage
12.8v is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sales

12.2v or lower is a drained or failing battery
Its best to test car batteries after they have been sitting for a few hours, not just after charging, but do it anyway to see what it shows

Start engine
Battery should now read 14.3-14.8volts, alternator is working
After a few minutes of running it will drop to 13.5-13.8v, test this after problem is fixed,

After startup if battery voltage is NOT above 13.5v then alternator is off line, check Fuse #6(1997) in engine fuse box, 15amp, it powers voltage regulator inside the alternator
And Battery Light on dash should be ON, if not check fuse #15(1997) in cab fuse box, 7.5amps, this fuse turns ON the alternator via the Battery light circuit

+1 to what Rusty said, doesn't read like voltage issue, could be fuel flow, new fuel filter is under $15 and should be changed every 5 years or so, so not a waste of money if you don't know when it was last changed

 

[welltal89]

Thanks for the replies! I'm taking the alternator in tomorrow morning just to make sure it's still good (took it apart before I read this thread, doh!) And I'll pick up a fuel filter while I'm there. Thanks again for the advice, still need to do the fuel filter on my current daily driver as well.

 

[Josh B]

Thanks for the replies! I'm taking the alternator in tomorrow morning just to make sure it's still good (took it apart before I read this thread, doh!) And I'll pick up a fuel filter while I'm there. Thanks again for the advice, still need to do the fuel filter on my current daily driver as well.

Seems too often you need to take those parts store tests with a grain of salt

 

[91stranger]

You can test the alternator a few ways... disconnect the negative on the battery while truck is running (if it stays running the alternator is good, if it dies then its bad), next way is to start the truck and turn on everything, head lights, high beams, radio, interior lights, blower fan on high, a good alternator will have no trouble running everything at once, a bad one will. Then there's always getting out the ol meter and seeing what voltage it's putting out.

Things to check:
IAC, unplug it while running to see if it dies or not
Fuel filter should just be replaced if it's been over 20k miles
MAF sensor should be cleaned with the CORRECT cleaner as these are very sensitive and your computer NEEDS this reading from the sensor to run properly
Spark plugs and wires, pull one or all and check them for issues. Inspect wires for chaffing or other issues.
Check your battery cables, clean them, keep them tight and make sure the ground is good.

You need to be more specific with your issue too: Will it start back up after it dies? What's it idling at when it is running? Does it just shut off from nothing or are you switching from park to drive or anything? Check engine light on? If so pull the codes.

 

[welltal89]

You need to be more specific with your issue too: Will it start back up after it dies? What's it idling at when it is running? Does it just shut off from nothing or are you switching from park to drive or anything? Check engine light on? If so pull the codes.

It will start back up after it dies, but after the second time, no dash lights will come on inside with key cycle. Idles around 800 or so? I haven't run it in a while, so I don't remember exactly, see below for updates. It'll shut off with it just being in neutral (manual 5-speed), No CEL.

Thanks all for the responses. I finally had some time today to take my alternator in to 3 different shops. All the same diagnosis:

Alternator is toast.

So I'm planning on getting another alternator, probably one that's rebuilt. Before I put everything back in, I'm going to replace the fuel filter (since I don't know the last time it's been done). I'm going to clean the MAF since it can't hurt, though I'll search around here for a write-up before I spray anything on it. (thanks for the troubleshooting steps 91stranger!)

 

[Josh B]

I took advantage of a 50% off sale at PickNPay and grabbed a couple extra alternators on the cheap

 

[welltal89]

I took advantage of a 50% off sale at PickNPay and grabbed a couple extra alternators on the cheap

I was able to get a refurbished motorcraft unit for 60, feel pretty good about that. The public chopshop is a good idea too!

Now to find some time to install...

 

[welltal89]

Update: I was able to install the alternator, clean out the intake tract with some electrical components cleaner (it's essentially isopropyl alcohol we use here in our shop) button everything back together. Put about a gallon of gas in just to make sure that wasn't an issue. Started up pretty quickly (guessing some of the evaporated alcohol helped) and she ran for a good few minutes. It was starting to snow so I decided that was good enough for me. Next step is to drive the truck around the block to check any other issues.

Thanks everyone for the help!

 

[91stranger]

Awesome to hear. Those 3.0's will run forever if you do the basics and keep an eye on the camshaft synchronizer... That is the one part on the engine that can fail without warning and once it does you will have seconds to save you engine before it blows. These are easy to check. Guys on here recommend at least pulling it out and checking the gear at the end of it every 50k. There's some tips guys use on here too where they drip some oil on top of the sensor to help keep it lubed. Also check your throttle cable as those get stretched pretty easily and once it is stretched you will only be opening your throttle about half way instead of WOT. People like to dog on the 3.0 but I bet it's because the ones they had or rode in had stretched throttle cables. Mine felt like a turd that couldn't pass a damn geo metro and now with a few zip ties it has no problem passing or getting up to speed. It's like doing a tune up but with 10c zip ties and 2 minutes of your time. Quick way to check the throttle cable is to see how far you can pick your gas pedal up. If you can pull it a few inches forward then it is definitely stretched.