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Transmission crossmember sitting at an angle


Cyb3rst0rm

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Its like this on both sides. What do I need to do here? This is my only vehicle (currently saving to get a different ranger, but it seems like the prices have spiked here. Not paying $4500 for a 2002 3.0 Standard cab).

Do I just put my jack under it, level it out and install new bolts on the side that is sheered? I'm just concerned leveling it out might be enough to torque the other side to the point the mount breaks.

How does this even happen? Those are like half inch bolts. What on earth could sheer both sides? I don't see any evidence the crewmember has taken an impact. Its probably been like that the entire time I've had the truck (1 year/12000 miles).

Also, what happens if that breaks before I get it fixed? I'm assuming nothing good but I'd like to know.
 


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I think I would try exactly what you mentioned. Put a bottle jack under it and carefully raise it into position and install new bolts. It could help to support the transmission with another jack to get some weight off the cross-member while trying to level it and install the new bolts. Not sure how it would get that way. Maybe if the bolts were left loose, vibration could have made them wear through at the bracket. Be sure to inspect the transmission mount to see if it needs to be replaced. The rubber part of it deforms and degrades over time.
 

Shran

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Wow. The bolts are sheared off on both sides? Doesn't look rusty enough under there to eat through a bolt of that size.

I'd be tempted to visit a junkyard and replace that whole crossmember with the newer style one found in trucks made after 1990 or so... it's an L shaped piece with no bushings on the end. Requires grinding the rivets out and removing those C shaped pieces attached to the frame. It's a much better design, those old style crossmembers are awful.

At a minimum I'd do what Eric suggested, and I would probably not drive it until you get that fixed.
 

Cyb3rst0rm

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I just checked
Wow. The bolts are sheared off on both sides? Doesn't look rusty enough under there to eat through a bolt of that size.

I'd be tempted to visit a junkyard and replace that whole crossmember with the newer style one found in trucks made after 1990 or so... it's an L shaped piece with no bushings on the end. Requires grinding the rivets out and removing those C shaped pieces attached to the frame. It's a much better design, those old style crossmembers are awful.

At a minimum I'd do what Eric suggested, and I would probably not drive it until you get that fixed.
Yeah something fishy is going on with this truck minimal rust almost everywhere but random tiny things rust out like my rear drivers side shock mount (the mount is solid rust, but the frame? Flawless).

Any who I looked and the cross member has the remains of the bolts stuck in it on both sides, so it would probably be easier for me to get one from a scrap yard and replace the whole damn thing. I think the previous owner probably snapped the heads off the bolts and YOLO'd it, never intending the truck to have a next owner.

Any who do I need to support the trans with something while I take the cross member off? Or will it just be cool chilling up there while I do the swap?

On another side note, I wonder if the transmission is too low. I have a major oil leak from the rear main seal area, now I'm concerned that the transmission might have damaged the block from being improperly mounted. Opinions on this theory are welcome.

Alternatively I might just drive it until something blows up or the drive line falls out. Ill have enough cash for a different vehicle by the end of the month, and I'm sure it will hold on until then. This truck needs like $3k worth of repairs. Not happening.
 

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The rear main seal won't leak from the trans hanging too low.

The L shaped crossmember is a better design for sure, but you could easily fix the problem now with new bolts. Those bolts do tend to seize inside those bushings though, and can be a pain to get out.

You'll want to support the trans with a jack of somesort so you don't put too much torsion on the motor mounts by just letting it hang there.
 

Cyb3rst0rm

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The rear main seal won't from the trans hanging too low.

The L shaped crossmember is a better design for sure, but you could easily fix the problem now with new bolts. Those bolts do tend to seize inside those bushings though, and can be a pain to get out.

You'll want to support the trans with a jack of somesort so you don't put too much torsion on the motor mounts by just letting it hang there.
I don't see how I'm going to extract the remains of the bolts. If they are hard to remove with the heads on them getting them out with an extractor might be impossible.
 

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Just put a jack and maybe a wood block under the trans, and slowly jack it up as high as possible to get the crossmember out and replaced. The trans will likely droop downwards further than it is now.

The main thing right now is that your exhaust and the firewall are the only things holding the engine and trans from falling down further. Like I said, probably wouldn't drive it, I doubt it caused your oil leak but it WILL cause issues if it's allowed to droop down much further.
 

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I don't see how I'm going to extract the remains of the bolts. If they are hard to remove with the heads on them getting them out with an extractor might be impossible.
It can be challenging. A drill, grinder, air hammer, torch, etc. You may have to replace the bushings if you go that route.

Getting the L shaped cross member is a good idea, but you'll need to grind out the rivets as previously mentioned.

Here's what it looks like

 

Cyb3rst0rm

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Just put a jack and maybe a wood block under the trans, and slowly jack it up as high as possible to get the crossmember out and replaced. The trans will likely droop downwards further than it is now.

The main thing right now is that your exhaust and the firewall are the only things holding the engine and trans from falling down further. Like I said, probably wouldn't drive it, I doubt it caused your oil leak but it WILL cause issues if it's allowed to droop down much further.
I have absolutely no choice in driving it. Its my only vehicle and I have to drive 25 miles each way to work 5 days a week. I can't fix anything if I become unemployed.

Trying to figure out how to get this fixed. I only have one jack and it's a shop style jack. I also have no torches no cutting tools no extractors etc.
 

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If you can at least get the crossmember out of the truck, you could try to hammer the remains of the bolts out of the sleeves by hand. If they're rusted in as bad as they usually are, it will be a challenge. You could also drill them out... start with a small bit and work your way up to 1/2" or so until you've got it removed. You'll need good drill bits, those bolts are fairly hard metal.
 

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Im not saying its a good idea, but I noticed my brackets were bad for the crossmember and didnt want it dropping out, so I drilled a hole in each side through the crossmember straight up through the frame, used a 1/2 bolt. yes, originally you have rubber mounts for isolating vibration, and Ive done away with that with this modification, but Ive noticed no problems from doing this. Just jack things back in place, drill and bolt. Like I said, maybe not the best idea, but I have done it myself and havent had any issues because of it. If you do this, put a 3/4” nut between crossmember & frame, thats about the normal spacing it was originally. Silicone the holes to prevent rust . I did this about 3 years ago.
 

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^ I would have no problem doing that... good solution.
 

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I also like the drill straight up and bolt solution.
You can use a ratchet strap as a temporary sling under the trans, and use the ratchet to lift. But a jack on level ground is better.
 

Cyb3rst0rm

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The truck already rattles like a mofo so I might as well straight bolt it. The trucks probably destined for the scrap yard anyways, reverse is starting to slip.

What type of drill bit would I use to drill that hole? Anything inside the frame rail (wiring, etc) I need to watch out for?
 

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Passenger side should be pretty clear, the drivers side has fuel lines, electrical and speedo cable. Just go slow and keep an eye on what you're doing.
 

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