Recent content by Sdude2008

Question plz. I installed this set up on my 3.0 and it works great. The one thing I dont like is the way the pressure hose connects under the pump. The stock hose is way too long. Did you use the stock hose or did you find something shorter. I’ve developed a bad leak and as far as I can tell...

Would you look at that. Replaced the sender with the correct part number and it works. Thanks to RonD for helping me realize someone had put a two pin sender in there and the solution was to add a second wire for ground. I appreciate your help Ron and the forum always. Now on to the next thing.

Decided to replace the thermostat and broke the brittle other temp sensor so… replaced the second sensor with the new one and put the original old gauge sender back. Now the gauge actually shows signs of life. This is the first reading Ive had since Ive owned it for ~5 yrs. Usually it’s dead...

Two wire plug arrived today. I spliced the red wire and grounded the other wire to an intake bolt. Out for a drive now and still nothing. I’ll double check the ground but its the same place I grounded the red wire for the test. Swapped wires and more nothing. Maybe I have the wrong sender…

My old one had two pins so that’s what I got but maybe someone before me put the wrong one. I just cleaned out the threads and still nothing. I can connect the red wire to the batt neg and I get gauge. I grounded the brass base of the sender and nothing. I checked both pins with a test light and...

The new one came with what appeared to be a teflon coating on the threads. I’ll clean it off and go metal to metal. Thank you.

First thank you for the great info you share. In this case you helped me know where to start on my non working temp gauge. Maybe you could suggest my next step. I have one red/white wire. The gauge pegged at hot upon testing/grounding. I replaced the sender with motorcraft and still no gauge...

Developed an exhaust leak at my drivers side flange. I learned on this post there is not gasket/donut. I have another question. Does the flange use bolts or studs off the manifold. I want to be prepared before I tackle the rust. TIA

I had the vacuum hubs but they were not working before I got the truck so I do manually lock the front hubs when snow is expected etc. like you suggested. I just cut the brown wire and connected it also as you suggested. I appreciate the response and thank you for sharing your obvious wealth of...

Hello Ron. I have the 8th brown wire incorporated into my tc motor plug. Every replacement tc motor I see has no brown wire. If I use one of these (7 pin) motors as a replacement should I just re pin the 8th brown wire into the plug? Pic of the ‘extra’ wire. Thank you in advance.

Related question. I need to replace my TC motor but nothing I see listed matches mine. I have an extra wire which runs to a pin near the output shaft base. The motor pictured in this post is close but mine has only one wire. I pulled gently on it and it doesnt come off. Any info is appreciated. TIA.

Ok thank you both. It’s hard to believe there’s nothing at all left of an inner cage and the needles but I guess anything is possible. Maybe the worn pieces fell out. I’ll get the listed one. Again the insight is much appreciated. Thanks.

The 3.0 is in the crank the 4.0, 2.9 etc is in the plate per this forum. I appreciate the response.

1999 3.0 5 spd 129k Replacing slave and doing clutch while in there. Looking at the pilot bearings from several sources it shows a roller bearing. My crank end has no roller bearing or remnants of a roller bearing. I can see a thin ‘sleeve’ in there with an inside ridge ~ 1/2” in. There is no...

This is what I have. 1999 XL 3.0. I appreciate all the responses. I will sort through everything this weekend.