This is really a discussion on how to fix camber on i-beam trucks. Unfortunately there are no upper control arms, I wish there was because you have found a cool solution it sounds like.
Gotcha, I plan on pie cutting my DJM dream beams at the end and adding camber and pulling about 1/2" out of track on each side. I essentially want to be in spec on camber another 2" lower and then have 4-5" to air out the rest of the way. I see what you are saying, if I dont work with the tie...
I have Ricks tie rod notches going in the frame and then doing the Ricks bag mounts up front too. I love the smooth ride and adjustability with air ride when done right.
I already have drop beams, I am wanting to do this to add positive camber and narrow the track width as much as I can. For that I think it may be the ticket.
the question really is how much can you pull the beam inward before you get a bind on the radius arm at rest or travel? They have a fairly forgiving bushing since they dont travel straight up and down. My thought is this would pull on it at rest and cause more wear as it moves and is further out...
I just saw this build. I am building an 88 ranger GT and I am digging this. I dont have a shop at home which sucks, and with 7 cars/trucks in the driveway I dont have much room. (Yeah my fancy HOA loves me). Thanks for so many pics, you answered questions with them alone and will help me...
I'm in the midst of a full on truck build on an 88 GT, but the stereo stuff is bought and sitting awaiting its turn. I am using old school gear to be fairly era correct, other than source unit. I have a new Alpine single DIN so I can Bluetooth and stream, but then I have an Alpine 3554 amp, an...
As Ford guys I thought you all might like my "other' vehicle. Its a 2011 F350 dually with the 6.7L diesel. SO far it is lowered with dream beams and flip kit, air bagged rear on the leafs with 2 compressors, a 5g tank and everything to make it remote on the road when pulling a load. It has 24"...
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