Recent content by Fairlaniac

I'm doing some exhaust work that failed inspection, cracked RH manifold and deteriorated gaskets between Y-pipe & Cat. 4 of 6 manifold bolts broke. Got them out then off to the "easy" part of the job loosening the three nuts fastening the cat to the Y-pipe. The nuts were rusted to round corners...

The guy at the shop agreed that with all that I put in as new parts that I'd derive it a while and see if it settles in. Can't say it has so I might as well make an adjustment. After about 600 miles, nothing had changed. Thanks!

In my '93 4x4 I replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link, steering gear, power steering pump, hoses, pitman arm. Pretty much everything in the steering. The gear and pump was leaking so I just got all new stuff. Afterwards I get a slight bind to the left or right just past center. Then...

PB Blaster and brute force overcame the corrosion where the busted bolt shank was corroded together with the P/S pump bracket. All good. Also eliminated my a/c compressor and used a w/o a/c stock belt. Thanks,

On a 1993 3.0 Ranger (4x4) you can eliminate the a/c compressor and use the stock belt for a vehicle w/o a/c. This is the NAPA belt. No bypass idler is necessary.

I've read numerous and confusing posts on the elimination of the a/c compressor and which belt to use. Some advise a pulley at the a/c location. Based upon the sticker in my '93. Can't I just do as the diagram indicates and by a non-a/c belt and bypass the a/c? Thanks,

In pictures, this is my situation. Thanks, Doug

I have the “special tool” and I removed the pulley. That is how I accessed the three mounting bolts which allowed me to twist two of the heads off. The under head portion of the bolt appears to be corroded fast. So I decided to remove the bracket so I can dislodge them pump. Due to the two...

I am trying to remove my power steering pump. So far the lower bolt stud combo that holds the bracket yo the block was rusted round so I had to cut it off. Not much room. Also tried to remove the pump from the bracket while still installed. Two lower bolt heads snapped off. I think I have all of...

I've installed new u-joints and got new outer axle seals for my front axles. The pictures below show the seal on the axle (it is not fully pressed on yet). The picture with the spindle. I'll assume the large diameter end of the seal fits into the recess on the back of the spindle after...

Edit: The more I look at the Spicer parts list and understanding their BOM. The listed numbers below are for '92 nd older, most likely Dana 28. It looks like the Dana 35 may only have an oil seal item 37 p/n 50492. Maybe the parts that fell off mine are a destroyed 50492? Spicer 50492 Drive...

Yep, looks exactly familiar.

All of the options and different nomenclature each parts house uses in confusing. This keeps popping up when I search but I'm not confident yet? Hopefully someone smarter can provide a popular parts house p/n? Amazon link to seal

Can anyone provide a part number for the three items circled? Items 36, 37 & 38. Any reference to a RockAuto, Advanced, Autozone, etc... would be helpful. I took my shafts out and nothing but the steel ring of the seal on one side and the other side looks like a rubber seal tore into two rings...

I've replaced my ball joints on my '93. The old ball joints the bushing hex was flush to the knuckle. With the new ball joints the hex is about 3/32" high. The bottom of the bushing is against the ball joint boot so it's not going down any further. Any issue? Thanks,