Recent content by DustinW2

Maybe timings off? Idk. I got a code for a faulty cylinder. But thats it.

Okay... nearly a year later i got everything replaced but idle is really high but super smooth. Throttle isnt there it just chokes the motor out. Only thing left is CPS... any help would be appreciated.

I love youre silver 2nd gen and i would love for those mirrors to be on mine as well. Could you point me in the direction of what car you stole those off of? Thanks 👍🏻👍🏻

I’ve been working on the truck for a couple weeks now and I haven’t pulled any codes but I’ve noticed my timing belt keeps walking. I’ve replaced the tensioner and belt. I’ve also tried different tightenings on the tension to reduce deflection. I can’t figure this truck out. I feel like I got it...

That makes perfect sense... how do I control the spark advance? Do I have to replace coil packs? Or how does that work?

I’m sorry Scott for the very vague post lol. But what I was saying was that my CPS was faulty because I didn’t have any spark.... I put a newer CPS on and then it started right up. I was just wondering if there’s a trick I’m missing on the timing set up or what... I have a new timing belt coming...

Okay... I looked over everything and my CPS was faulty and this gave me the spark I needed and it started right up... but the timing keeps jumping, any ideas?

How do I run obd1 without the tool... do I just count the check engine light sequence? It sounds like it’s on time... but when ever that brand new tps was plugged in it dies

Okay I’m back guys!!! I got the the thing running at 3500 RPM and jumping at idle, which is obviously not correct. This was without the throttle position sensor plugged in. When I did plug in the TPS it stayed at 3500 consistently and then shut off after 5 secs. I replaced MAF, IAC,TPS, MAP, CPS...

One more question... how the F$&@ do you get these damn spring lock fuel lines off ??

No I haven’t... I haven’t ever had a fouled plug before but I’m willing to check... but do you have any ideas on why it would be at a higher rpm when you turn the key??

It’s at 39 psi at the rail which is in spec. But it doesn’t explain the pop. It seems like I got a valve stuck open. It needs to be redone anyway so I’m gonna get that refreshed. I can’t test exact fuel pressure because it won’t run lol

It’s what it’s supposed to be at and I’ve replaced everything that has to do with fuel so it’s not a pump... it just sounds like a computer/sensor that isn’t kicking on :/

Okay... I’ve already replaced the intake manifold as of my new injectors and hasn’t ran ever since. I have been doing my research and it seems like it’s a sensor now. Maybe a Crank position sensor or a ignition control module, because it sounds like it’s just losing fuel before it cuts out...