Buy the dip. The same could have been said about the second gen Range Rover. Everyone hated them so they trashed them and you could pick them up for 3 figures.
Now a really good one will set you back 30k.
In the process of finding a replacement body, I've been fooling around with my other project, a 2001 F-150.
Right now, it's the candidate for an engine swap and last night I came across this:
32v InTech engine out of a '99 Navigator
Morana's dual plane intake
Whoops...
^ for that reason, I like the one on the right. There's no vertical elements to the design of that gen ranger. It matches the body lines better.
The ranger is a minimalist truck, the minimalist grill fits. <smokes long cigarette, wears black beret>
Finally figured out what was holding the plastic on. Turns out the carpeted bit lifts off to reveal screws.
Got all the trim off, kinda wish I didn't.
PO stuffed insulating foam between the sheared metal to conceal it, clever.
Looks like I'm gonna go order new inner fenders as well...
@Shran You could call this a restomod of sorts. Hot cam, headers, etc...
I'm not much of a rock crawler but it will definitely see more dirt than the lifted WJ's prowling around Atlanta.
Replacement rear quarter panels are in the mail along with some harbor freight paint guns. The next big issue...
I'm feeling a bit inept right now. How does one remove this broad piece of trim. All the screws are out, overhead handle's off.
It feels like its caught on the carpeted bit beneath the window but I can't see far enough to find what it's secured with.
I realize after about 5 minutes with the search bar that was a stupid question.
But look what I found!
Now I'm really confused...
@SenorNoob, looks like you were right.
Thanks! I guess all thats left is to get the correct electric t-case.
There's a '92 Explorer at my Pull-A-Part. It has a A4LD and 4WD
Will that case bolt up to my FM146?
Given all the hackery, its a fair bet the current case doesn’t have a motor in it. I’ll crack it open when the chassis is separated to confirm.
Where is the control box located?
So in order to swap back to the e-shift, should I be able to get away with snagging the electric motor? Seeing as I have the t-case, dash switches, and wiring behind it?
What all else would be left?
So this happened...
Turns out the vehicle came with an e-shift transfer case but at some point an owner installed the floor yoke. The intent will be to revert back to the buttons.
I would like to offer the biggest of middle fingers to the team of engineers who thought this was an acceptable...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.