Recent content by baddad457

If you have a pan fill C4, then you'll need to tweak them to fit the bigger bell these transmissions came with, same as with an AOD.

The part that rivets the pan will no longer be an in stock item. Best bet is bite the bullet on an aftermarket pan or go with a late model roller motor. I wnet through all this back when I did my swap 20 years ago. There's just too many obstacles to overcome using an older 60's and 70's engine...

Dipstick in the front sump will yield a false reading. When the oil fills the front sump, it runs over the hill to the rear. So the front reading isn't what's in the rear sump where the pickup tube is and that's the level that counts. On my 89 Ranger, the cross member between the radius arms...

On my 89, I centered the carb pad between the fenders. Using the frame to center it is an exercise in futility. Then with the carb pad centered and leveled, aim the tailhousing at the pinion yoke on the rear end. You will need to flatten the body seam in the transmission tunnel to ever hope to...

X2 on this. With him having a carbed Ranger to start with, it slipped my mind.

77 302's had flat top pistons. The low comp ratio came from the 70 cc combustion chambers. The deep dish pistons were used from 72 to 76. And then there's the cam specs. Lift was not much. Duration was not long.

68 Mustangs never had headers, period. Hedman 88400's are what you want, or the old Shelby Tri-Y's. The Tri-Y's fit like they were made for the Ranger's with a 157 tooth bellhousing. 164 tooth bells, they need to be tweaked to clear the bell. On an intake, look at the Performer RPM, Weiand...

The factory double row, roller chain sets for the roller 5.0's are not retarded 4*. I've only run across one timing set that was retarded and that was for a 351M, and it's only offset by a half tooth on the cam gear. I don't know what that translates to in degrees, but doesn't seem like 4*.

If you're going carbed, skip the mech fuel pump and use a low pressure electric pump. One of the small one wire, 30-35 gal/hr pumps is all you need. Wire it to the ignition hot wire. And on the mounts, I used the 'vert mounts but bolted them permanently to the cross member and used 7/16NC x 2"...

Someone would have had to convert those heads to screw in studs then. As for the rail rockers, that's easily fixed with a set of aftermarket rockers. I've ridden in a 70 Boss and it was no slouch at any rpm.

Most likely 164 tooth being a truck transmission

You are Really misinformed here. It depends on which 351W heads he's going to use. As for the bolt size difference, the cylinder head locating dowels determine where the head sits on the block. The bolts have nothing to do with this. And the so called port mismatch is also BS. The heads would...

What a load of CRAP ! Must be a Chevy owner.

The B cam probably not going to work well with the idle air controller. The B has a nasty lope at idle. Roller rockers are always worth the money spent. They free up a lot of friction and keep the oil cooler. If that motor has more'n 100K miles, check the pushrods upper ends, they tend to wear...