Recent content by AndyB.

Out of curiosity, is your starter held to the bell housing with two bolts or through bolts with nuts?

1) Does the new TFI say Motorcraft on it? I would try to find a new old stock part. 2) It would be a good idea to troubleshoot. The stator in the distributor msg be the issue. To replace it you’re going to have to pull the distributor, use a gear puller to pull the drive gear, reinstall the...

The Motorcraft ones have gotten expensive Motorcraft part number DY-425, Ford part number E43Z-12A397-A. Be sure to use heat sink compound on the back and tighten it securely to the distributor—the distributor is the heat sink to keep it cool. I’ve owned my ‘85 2.8 since 1996, and I’ve gone...

1) it’s left handed threads 2) There are tools made to remove it

You have some bad info. Here are the parts listings for 2.8s. The base part number is 6038.

I removed the oil pressure switch and used a gear wrench. It wasn’t a big deal.

These will help.

There’s a simpler solution...

It’s covered with a steel plate, staked in place.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256016833004?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=DjbiHDp3RHm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=d87u9en7TgW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Buy this. It will be cheaper and better than anything being produced today.

You have a bad part, running that way will give you a large oil leak.

There’s no need to drain the oil, you won’t lose any. A gear wrench is your friend for this project.

Is this the seal you couldn’t find? https://www.ebay.com/itm/232235924057?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=NzmmAuQ0QF-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=d87u9en7TgW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

If there was only a way you could test for valves not closing all the way. Maybe like someone suggested after the low compression, a leak down test? How did it run before you rebuilt the carburetor?

Would you be interested in a new old stock replacement?