Recent content by 55trucker

In your conversation with an exhaust shop manager bring up the topic of 409 stainless & their ability to both supply it & weld it properly.

What I see in your photo of the replacement item is a 4l fuel pressure regulator, not the 3 L item, the 3L pressure regulator has a barbed end not a threaded fitting....... Now I've not had to replace mine so I've never paid much attention to it.....what you require is this?

All of the missing hardware can be purchased new with the exception of the park brake lever (attached to the secondary shoe) & the push rod & spring that are between the primary & secondary shoe.

When you replaced the master & the booster did you alter the booster push rod at all? It IS adjustable, if by chance the replacement master & new booster has placed the cylinder piston closer to that push-rod that may be your issue, there is now an interference contact & the master piston cannot...

If the brakes are *spongy* & you're not confident in the way they respond I wouldn't wait for an oil change to come around.

I'm in complete agreement with Walt tightening up the top end & doing nothing at all to the bottom end on a 235,000 mile engine is asking for trouble. How do you know if the oil pressure is near what's called for? the oil pressure *gauge* isn't a gauge at all, it's just an off/on switch, the...

Is this situation occurring open loop or closed loop? The PCM will not set an idle rpm code unless the rpm is more than 300 rpm out of range and stays that way for at least 45 secs. So if the rpm is *hunting* continually passing thru the proper rpm range a code will not set.

I'd think that if the cam lobe has worn away then the valve *wouldn't* open instead of *staying* open. The OP didn't mention if there was any sort of louder than normal noise if & when the cam actually broke?..of course the engine would quit right there & then

First thought is the valves in those two cylinders are not sealing

Go to a transmission shop

You've been initiated into the 3 liter oil change crowd, the starter's heavy 12v terminal is right in the path that the filter needs when one pulls it down to replace. There should also be a plastic funnel that is right above the solenoid attached to the block to allow a path for the excess oil...

Pull off the intake snorkel to the throttle body, is the throttle plate completely closed? Cover off the throttle body opening with some cardboard and seal it, try to start the engine........ what happens?

Remove the serpentine drive belt & start the engine again...to rule out anything belt driven

It sounds similar to the a/c clutch continually trying to engage. I take it that you can hear it but not see it?

you want to do another one of those but this time with the hood up & the mic a little closer to the engine?