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stupid o2 issues..........again I know


BiggSherm1988

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I search but couldn't find something close enough to my issue to give me that good feeling of "oh this is it". So, here I am asking about O2 sensor problems.

I am getting a bank 2 sensor 2 slow response. I only get the issue on cold days like super cold and I rarely ever get it in the warmer months. I think it triggered maybe twice this summer but now I get it almost every other day. I have replaced the O2 sensors on the passenger side (bank 2) and it went away for about a week but the weather was warm so it may have been that. Is it so common to get a bad sensor that I should just put another one in it? Or maybe swap the bank 1 sensor to see if the fault follow? I want to check the wires coming from the sensor to the next possible disconect does anyone know where that may be? Or if it is at the computer, what pins could I check? This issue is becoming annoying it doesn't cause any issues at all besides the light coming on and my fuel economy going to shit. But usually I just plug my OBDII in and clear it and then continue on my way.

When I change my oil in the next week or so I will probably just swap the sensor and see if it follows.
 


2011Supercab

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Just making sure you replaced the sensor on the catalytic convertor, not the one up by the exhaust manifold flange.

And sensor 2 shouldn't really affect mileage.
 

DILLARD000

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...getting a bank 2 sensor 2 slow response
...replaced the O2 sensors on the passenger side (bank 2) and it went away for about a week
Think you may be changing wrong OxSensor as you've got Bank1 & Bank2 mixed up; on Fords V6~4.0L~SOHC,
Bank1=Cylinder1+2+3 is on RIGHT,
Bank2=Cylinder4+5+6 is on LEFT.
Recommend avoid using "passenger\driver" side as a reference as that varies with country.
Assuming you've got 4 OxSensors,
OxSensor22 is the DnStream OxSensor, in or after CatCon on the LEFT,
OxSensor21 is the UpStream OxSensor, in ExhaustManifold on the LEFT,
OxSensor12 is the DnStream OxSensor, in or after CatCon on the RIGHT,
OxSensor11 is the UpStream OxSensor, in ExhaustManifold on the RIGHT.

If any of your OxSensors are 2008 FactoryOE or over 100kMiles\160kKMs, they are overdue for replacement.
A Bosch 15719 with 24i00 0m610 Long Cable+Plug is good to replace any Ford 4WireNarrowBand Sensor.
Click here for more on OxSensors for the V6~4.0L~SOHC.
2001.Ford_Exha.OSensor##_Cabl=24i00=0m610_Bosch.15719.GIF
 
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2011Supercab

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BiggSherm1988

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download (1).gif

I have always been using pass/driver cause people who drive from the right side are just wrong. Thankfully I have all 4 sensors, so I'll just replace the other two and call it good. I will go bandage up my ego and then change some O2 sensors. kind of feel like a big oh dummy.
 

19Walt93

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The "downstream O2's" are actually Cat monitors and have different base part numbers, 9G444 if memory serves.
 

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View attachment 85429
I have always been using pass/driver cause people who drive from the right side are just wrong. Thankfully I have all 4 sensors, so I'll just replace the other two and call it good. I will go bandage up my ego and then change some O2 sensors. kind of feel like a big oh dummy.
Don't feel too bruised; we all have bad days.
Personally, if I do NOT make a mistake once or twice a day & have to redo something,
I'm suspicious something really terrible is about to happen!!!
 

Salttedsnails

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Hey, So I'm getting a Similar code Just for a different sensor P0153 (Bank 2 Sensor 1 Slow responce) and P0155 (Heater Circut Malfunction), and P1151 ( Sensor indicates Lean)... I'm Still working through this problem but here is what I've done

-Fixed all vacuum leaks (had a pretty good one at the EGR)
-Found that my Fuel pressure was a little low so I replaced Pump, Filter, regulator, and cleaned the Injectors.
-I replaced the MAF, IAC, PCV, EGR and all the 02 Sensors.

So far all this has done is fixed the P1151 Lean code but has done nothing to fix the other codes. I checked the 02 sensor resistance and found that it was within spec. I also checked to see if the wiring harness was getting 12v from the PCM and it was.

So in my weeks of research I think I have narrowed it down to a wiring harness problem to that 02 sensor or a problem with my PCM which would explain why it would just randomly die and not start for about an hour after that.

So my new plan is to check resistance to all the wires on that 02 sensor, I think 3 of the 4 go back to the PCM so this will be a bit of task to track down all the wires. I know this isn't the exact problem you are having but maybe it will save you some of the leg work.
 

RonD

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Ford partial OBD2 code list seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/obd-ii_trouble_codes/

Good to look up codes on a LIST vs just the one code

Each sensor will have several codes all meaning something slightly different and they tend to be grouped together

P0153 is in this Bank 2 sensor 1 group
P0150 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor I)
P0151 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor I)
P0152 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0153 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0154 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P0155 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

This is a HEATED O2 sensor, so 2 of its 4 wires are just for the internal heater, no connection to Sensor part
Code P0155 is not a "sensor" code its a heater code
All O2s share one 12volt wire for the heater, but the GROUND for each O2 heater is a separate wire that runs back to the PCM(computer), with Key on computer should see 12v passing thru each O2 heater or its heater is bad OR 12v or ground wire is bad

So you know TWO of the O2 sensor wires are OK, since no P0155 code

O2 sensors generate their own voltage, 0.1v to 0.9v
They each share a common sensor reference ground from the computer, ALL sensors share this one wire
Then there is one "voltage wire" back to the PCM for each O2

But you didn't get P0150, circuit malfunction
So the 2 sensor wires should be OK

P0153 means PCM is seeing voltage, AND in correct Range because no P0151 or P0152, but its not changing as fast as it should
Upstream O2s(sensor 1's) change voltage a few times A SECOND, so very fast, as PCM adjusts air/fuel mix on the fly
So either O2 sensor is bad, OR you have issue with air leak or fuel leak specific to that Bank
Yes, swapping O2 around would be a good test
If problem moves to Bank 1 then its a bad O2 sensor
If problem stays on Bank 2 then O2 is OK but you have air or fuel issue


Heads up
O2 sensors can not work(generate voltage) until they are heated above 600degF, which is why they are "Heated" O2 sensors
Exhaust warms them up pretty fast but still takes a few minutes from Cold Start
So if you clear an O2 sensor code it may take a few minutes after Cold Start before it come back
PCM ignores O2 sensors until Coolant temp gets to about 140degF, this is called Open Loop operation
So PCM won't set an O2 sensor code until then, IF there is a problem
 
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