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Purchasing 1st B2. Need advice


Uncle Gump

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My advice in general for getting a B2 to work on:

Realize that all seals, belts and wear items like that are shot. If you have something apart, replace everything. This goes for ball joints, oil seals, u-joints, injectors, body mounts, etc. Get the picture?

If I had it to do over again, I would have completely dismantled the truck, labelled everything and put it all back together. In the end it would have taken less time than the piece meal way I did it. I essentially pulled the whole thing apart anyhow.
I don't think he is looking for a project. It is solid advice though. With my project Bronco II if I have to go into something... it all gets replaced. I only want to do things once.
 


Uncle Gump

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I never liked having to buy anything under time restraints.

Maybe you could line up someone you trust stateside to broker a deal and get it ready to go to Mexico. It gives you more time to find the right truck for you.

The last three you posted... I just don't get a good feeling from the first two and the third one... while it looks good to me... it is really at the extreme high end of overpriced.
 

RobbieD

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Some more "two cents worth" for you from the peanut gallery.

The red '89 doesn't look like "original paint". To my eye it's more of recent paint job which is probably be on top of some body work.

The white '86 is nice, but its asking price is really kind of high, especially it being more of a base model. Downers: automatic (big downer), the passenger (base) door card has screws holding it down (warped?), and it looks like dealer-installed AC.

The white/red '87 does look like an honest old truck. Only strikes I have is the asking price (which may actually be in line these crazy days), and the different shades of red on the driver door and fender may indicate an old collision repair.

Just my opinions. Good luck on your search. A B2 is a damn nice truck to have.
 

RumPunch

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Haha I like the expansion although you most definitely went extreme on quality. The white one is super nice. If money is not a factor then you're probably buying a pretty reliable truck. Although keep in mind lower mileage is GOOD it also means it likely sat a long time and means there will also likely be uprising problems from not being driven. I would hate to spend that much money and have to stick it in a shop. I think @gstuartw knows the price of new but is looking for something specific, he has made that pretty clear. So new maverick comments are probably a waste. Although likely a financially better choice none of us here are for financial decisions 🤣. If you want a quality reliable vehicle then the hunt can be difficult. The 2 you posted first I would still stray away from. The 89 is absolutely a "craigslist" fake. Probably a plethora of problems and unscene from a photography angle. If you're planning on a purchase without visiting then some sort of gaurantee would be a necessity. Don't forget this site has people world wide that would probably give you a very reasonable opinion across the globe. Use the resources!!
 

RumPunch

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RumPunch

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Im going to second @RobbieD on the 87 as well although some of the worst advertising pictures ever. But this could benefit you if it's actually a nice ride. Lot of angles to every deal. Likely if close worth a trip to examine further.
 

gstuartw

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Communication on the 87 has been with a friend of the owner. He explains that the owner is "an older gentleman who's not too computer savvy" and that "It's still being driven daily". He goes on to say that "I have driven it though and I will say that you prolly won't find a 1987 anything in as clean a condition as this one is." Obviously he as not spent much time on line looking at what is being offered, but that might explain the price.
 

bronco2fan

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gaz

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@gstuartw ,

I vote manual 87.

I am partial to the 87 body and style but the 89 has improved head castings and the correct dash/wire harness, should you ever decide to go-to an OHV 4.0L.

In regards to the top heavy vehicle story/fears-o-lore, James Duff Enterprise resolved this years ago with their dual 70/30 shock system. After learning about it, I installed it on my 87 Ranger and loved it. Upon becoming a BII owner, once the former spouse gave the green flag it was dual 70/30 shocks on all 4 corners in the BII. With that set up they handle like a dream and any thoughts of a roll over were gone.

Another way to increase the stability of a BII is to use a wider stance, either by using wider tires or swap in a set of Explorer axles (Dana 35 front and Ford 8.8 rear which are a little wider than a BII's) or both.

That 89 looks very nice. I would definitely want the 87 but would prefer the updated systems the 89 has.
 

gstuartw

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@gstuartw ,

In regards to the top heavy vehicle story/fears-o-lore, James Duff Enterprise resolved this years ago with their dual 70/30 shock system. After learning about it, I installed it on my 87 Ranger and loved it. Upon becoming a BII owner, once the former spouse gave the green flag it was dual 70/30 shocks on all 4 corners in the BII. With that set up they handle like a dream and any thoughts of a roll over were gone.
Thanks, I’ll keep the 70/30 shocks in mind.
 
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4x4prepper

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If I had the cash, I would go for the $18000 white B2, everything looks original except the master cyl. I rather have that for $18k then a Maverick for $24k.

That being said, I searched for a better and closer option for you, I searched over 30 of my local CL, and I came up with this one. I think it ticks all the boxes (not a rusted heap) for you and is ready to drive, with a lot of PM items taken care of my the owner:

1987 Ford Bronco II - $14,900


650 mile - 10 hour trip from your area, but, you could probably drive it back. If it passes that test, it certainly would be ready for the Mexico trip. Not too crazy about the auto hubs and electronic transfer case, the cracked dash is a minor thing and easily replaced. The seats look original and in good condition.
 

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@4x4prepper Thanks. Are those LED headlights? Any parts availability issues for putting those back to stock?

Which is the White B2 for $18,000? I'm thinking you are referring to the $19,900 with shipping included? That vehicle would net out in the mid $18's when factoring in the $1,200-1,500 shipping would cost me. I'm seeing many options out there and most are automatics, that being one. Most people on this forum have advised in favor of a manual transmission. Is that auto tranny really that bad? Even in light use/demand and probably 8k miles a year?
 
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gstuartw

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I'm sure many of you are getting tired of this, but I appreciate you sticking with me.

What's your gut? My budget allows me to spend as much as some of the pricier choices below but all of the vehicles are TMU. Do I go for what seems to be a well preserved specimen or go with something half the price, assume the milage is in the upper 100,000's or even into 200,000 and needs a default engine/tranny rebuild? The two white choices are top of the list for paint color as well as presented condition but the silver '88 has room in the price for extensive mechanical and I can paint later. The black 87 is priced midway between the others and I'd repaint also.

White '86 Automatic

White '88 Manual

Silver '88 Automatic

Black '87 Automatic
 
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JoshT

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@gstuartw Might want to check your links, both of those last two link to the same BII.

I'm partial to silver and blue interior, I also like the later Mazda wheels that one's got on it. I don;t care for the home made center console and the gauge tacked under the dash makes me question the tengine. With all that said, of the three working links I'd probably go for the white '88 manual. I'd never pay that much for any of the three though.

The white 88 is clean and appears to be in very good condition. I really like the external spare tire, that's the way my dad's '90 was setup and it just feels right for a BII to me. The cloth seats and full door panels are going to be more comfortable than the vinyl seats and metal door tops on a hot day. A manual transmission is going to be more reliable than the automatic, and with where you are moving to getting the A4LD repaired might not be as easy as getting it done here.

Still none of them are worth $15k+ in my eyes. I'd be hard pressed to spend $10k for an 80s or early 90s RBV, but I guess someday they'll be worth gold to the right people. That's 10k buying it, not 10k invested in making it the way I want.
 
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Uncle Gump

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Lead follow or get out of my way
That low mileage white and red manual rig looks like a well maintained great example. The asking price... whew!

I couldn't spend that much to do what I would do with it.

But if you NEED one... that little truck should fill that need.
 

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