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SOLVED: Transfer case end spraying fluid on undercarriage?


ford4wd08

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That's is exactly what I thought! Thank You so much. I just posted about heat too at the exact same time haha!
Make sure to use lock tite when you install the new one.

I converted my driveshaft from a yoke output on the T case to a flange. Then I was able to run a flange to flange driveshaft with much bigger U joints.
 
Last edited:


ecgreen

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If you dont have a torch, map gas will work. You just need to hold the flame on the bolts a lot longer. You get em. Just dont round them off!
 

A4LD_Nghtme

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Make sure to use lock tite when you install the new one.

I converted my driveshaft from a yoke output on the T case to a flange. Then I was able to run a flange to flange driveshaft with much bigger U joints.
GREAT NEWS! Grabbed a Coleman propane and attached my old starter nozzle. Heated About 1 minute per bolt then broke with 3/8 in breaker with a 3/8 12 point 12 mm socket(bolts are 12 point on the shaft). I'm currently flipping it back to neutral and removing the last two bolts and then installing the new shaft! Thank You so much.

Also, I realized its a good idea to leave one bolt in the front where it attaches to the transfer case so you aren't spinning freely when doing the rear bolts.
 

A4LD_Nghtme

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UPDATE!!!
Back from a 15 mile spin after the 2 joint rear driveshaft upgrade(not double cardan as it requires a reangling of the rear differential). Drives smooth and ZERO shudder on steep uphill acceleration and flatland acceleration.

Thank You all so much for the assistance!

Case closed!
 

A4LD_Nghtme

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Part used for fix:
TrueDrive #RF54550021 Rear Driveahaft GKN Conversion Design, (30.3125 in.)-(770 mm) Compressed Length
 

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