- Joined
- Jun 25, 2021
- Messages
- 179
- Reaction score
- 23
- Points
- 18
- Age
- 49
- Location
- Abilene tx
- Vehicle Year
- 2003
- Make / Model
- Mazda b3000
- Engine Type
- 3.0 V6
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 2WD
I'm still alost for the O2'S though....
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Something that's not clear to me: It sounds like replacing the rear axle sensor got rid of the ABS code. But did it make the FORScan-reported rear wheels' speed match the 2 front wheels / dashboard speedometer speeds?I set the forscan to ABS speed sensors the front 2 were reading the same as the dash, but the rear was reading almost 5mph slower than the other 2. [...] I replaced the OSS sensor and still had the ABS code. So I went back in got the ABS sensor and all good.
OK, since the O2 heater issue is not the fuse, I'd be thinking about looking at the wiring. But... maybe it makes sense to first do what @mc17eln wisely suggested: "finishing the drive cycles to clear the P1000". In other words, I wonder if the Mode $06 O2 heater current test results are possibly misleading because the O2 sensor monitor hasn't completed? In fact, a valid question now is, "Which of the vehicle monitors" (per FORScan) have/haven't completed?" FWIW, I'd be running the Ford drive cycle to get rid of that P1000 now.I put a test light on the 41 fuse and it's good. I pulled it and ohm tested it as well. Same results....
It's dark by the time I got both sensors in. I still don't have the bed on, so no taillights... I'm going to ATTEMPT the p1000 clear after I get back from my next train ride. I'm hoping the wife and I can get the bed back on tomorrow...DTCs are looking very nice now!Something that's not clear to me: It sounds like replacing the rear axle sensor got rid of the ABS code. But did it make the FORScan-reported rear wheels' speed match the 2 front wheels / dashboard speedometer speeds?OK, since the O2 heater issue is not the fuse, I'd be thinking about looking at the wiring. But... maybe it makes sense to first do what @mc17eln wisely suggested: "finishing the drive cycles to clear the P1000". In other words, I wonder if the Mode $06 O2 heater current test results are possibly misleading because the O2 sensor monitor hasn't completed? In fact, a valid question now is, "Which of the vehicle monitors" (per FORScan) have/haven't completed?" FWIW, I'd be running the Ford drive cycle to get rid of that P1000 now.
Great progress! Keep up the good work!
That's from your initial post. Among them, the easy one will the water pump, which will also expose the timing chain. However, Vulcan timing chain is very short (unlike the long dual-chain in the 4.0 Cologne). I saw in the video that you only have 116k miles. I have 190k and the original chain only has a small slack.but if it's good then the only thing left to go wrong would be pistons, timing chain, water pump or crank cause everything else is new
I'll try. I'll pop the hood and video from under it, see if that helps.That's from your initial post. Among them, the easy one will the water pump, which will also expose the timing chain. However, Vulcan timing chain is very short (unlike the long dual-chain in the 4.0 Cologne). I saw in the video that you only have 116k miles. I have 190k and the original chain only has a small slack.
Can you narrow down where the rattle comes from? I can only hear it at the end of the video outside of the cab. May be get a fresh pair of ears and a crawler.
No sir at 2k it comes then stops. Anything over 2500 it comes and stays. If I'm driving it's the same. If I let off the gas and let the engine slow the truck it stays till rpms are below 2500Sounds like you have a rocker arm about to come off.
Does it make noise at idle or only above 2k rpms?
Here's another video with the hood open.He has a new pair of cylinder heads, and it runs good with no misfire and bad smell. Opening the valve covers to verify is easy enough, then again, rattle inside the VC is also easy to distinguish from elsewhere.
The first video or the one above that one is the same one but at regular speed and not zoomed inthe camera frame rate is really making it difficult to see. pull the plugs out and crank it over by hand, check lash.
look closely at the cup in the lifters to see how far they are depressed.