AJE Ranger K-Member Who's Done It!?

[Yotaismygame]

AJE is making up a set of mounts for a 1st gen Ranger with a LS and sending them out when they have plate available.

I'll update when I have the engine/trans installed.

I was gunna say maybe they'll make you a better fitting set. At one point I was talking to them about moving the engine down and forward half an inch. You might want to have them lower it as much as you can, which is only like an inch until the heater hose inlet/outlet hit the frame. Your truck manifold might fit without modification then. Its very tight.

 

[n2xlr8n]

I was gunna say maybe they'll make you a better fitting set. At one point I was talking to them about moving the engine down and forward half an inch. You might want to have them lower it as much as you can, which is only like an inch until the heater hose inlet/outlet hit the frame. Your truck manifold might fit without modification then. Its very tight.

Thanks for the input.

If I find interference with the intake manifold, I'll just modify the ones I have. AJE is going to build another strut tower brace after I send pictures tomorrow detailing the dimensional changes needed.

I'm ready to be done with the wrestling part of this build- I've spent 6 years on suspension, welding, grinding and fitting.

 

[n2xlr8n]

My camber plates do not physically fit under the shock towers.

Spoke with Jim @ AJE- the plates I have are for a SN95 Mustang- the Ranger plates are smaller and more rectangular.

New plates and motor mounts on the way.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

It seems like AJE are working to fix problems. That's good. It's too bad you're the Guinea pig.

 

[n2xlr8n]

It seems like AJE are working to fix problems. That's good. It's too bad you're the Guinea pig.

Yes- Jim has been really great about responding to the issues with the 1st gen installation. As many here know, there are just enough subtle differences between the years.

I'm not aware of any 1st gens with this kit and a LS, but it appears some of this is news to AJE. It's going to work out well, though. We'll get it done.

 

[n2xlr8n]

I was gunna say maybe they'll make you a better fitting set. At one point I was talking to them about moving the engine down and forward half an inch. You might want to have them lower it as much as you can, which is only like an inch until the heater hose inlet/outlet hit the frame. Your truck manifold might fit without modification then. Its very tight.

BTW....Jim stated today that he was sending the "DSM" style mounts (not sure what that means, exactly). I'll let you know how it changes the k-member / engine orientation relative to the stock AJE mounts. I think the "DSM" mounts move the engine lower and forward 1".

 

[Yotaismygame]

People in the mustang world tend to have issues with AJE products all the time. But AJE does make it right. Mustang guys say just to buy the k-member unpainted from them and source the rest from other companies. Too bad we can’t do that for the ranger kit though. But I don’t really have any complaints with my kit so far.

 

[n2xlr8n]

Front suspension in. Engine / trans in.


Blame COVID, the economy, global warming, whatever: I've built cars my entire life, been around pipe welders, fabricators, TIG welding artists. I managed a fab shop for a number of years. That being said, this kit has the worst welds and fabricating I've ever seen. I've done more hole elongating, loosening, prying etc than anything I've ever purchased. The welds on the new mounts look fabulous- but the holes are anywhere from good to waaaay off:


@Yotaismygame has already described (and I was told as well) loosening everything up to make it fit, then tighten it. I'm sure AJE would blame Ford inconsistency, but I'm not buying it. AJE needs machine operators and welders.

Back on topic.... Flowtech 11535FLT headers don't fit, regardless if the strut brace is installed or not- the driver's side interferes with the steering column shaft. Truck manifolds don't work because they interfere with the frame. Guess I'll build logs ..always something, huh?

BTW...these mounts place the engine exactly where it needs to be relative to the firewall- the 4L60e dropped into the stock crossmember like it was designed for it:
Pass side-Drv side-

Anyway, that's all I have for now. I'll report back when I get the logs built.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Finally an update! Sucks all the fitment issues you’ve had. At least you got the engine mounted. How close is the passenger head to the firewall? Mines very tight. Great news about the transmission. That’ll help some future people out.

 

[n2xlr8n]

How close is the passenger head to the firewall? Mines very tight. Great news about the transmission. That’ll help some future people out.

I asked to move the engine forward an inch, that's what I got. 3/4" away from the firewall, the other 0.250" to line up the motor mounts properly....kinda. 2 out of 5..if it was golf, we'd be Tiger or Ben Hogan.

I'm looking at Holley 8510HKR manifolds and seeing if I can make them fit (obviously cutting into the frame rail, but it is, after all, a Ford...nothing's easy).

 

[Yotaismygame]

The passenger side won’t fit at all. Way too low.
I built my turbo manifold to come straight out off the head and you can see it’s just above the heater hose connections.

 

[Yotaismygame]

I wanted to buy a manifold but couldn't find anything that would work at all unless I was to add a bunch of pipe and move the turbo pretty far from the manifold. You might need to shorten your steering column to make life easier on the driver side. Luckily for me adding electric power steering made it possible for my column to come out of the firewall at a steep angle. Another thing, doing a rear mounted crossover is extremely tight on the passenger side which I why opted for a front crossover. And even then that was really tight around the turbo, radiator hoses, and tensioner.

 

[Yotaismygame]

@n2xlr8n You wouldn't happen to know apporximentaly what spring rate I should use for a 4-link rear suspension do you?

 

[n2xlr8n]

The passenger side won’t fit at all. Way too low.
I built my turbo manifold to come straight out off the head and you can see it’s just above the heater hose connections.
View attachment 65793

I used dimensions from the PDF from Holley- it will take clearancing of the frame rail, but it will work. Not easily, but it'll work (says the plasma cutter and extra material for x-bracing in the corner of my shop). Same for the crossover. This entire project has been a headache, so I'm used to it.

@n2xlr8n You wouldn't happen to know apporximentaly what spring rate I should use for a 4-link rear suspension do you?

I'm using 140s, but I have a bit more weight back there. Stock (non-relocated everything) Ranger, I'd use 120s to begin with to make sure it loaded properly....that's assuming you're looking to drag race.

If you're speaking about road racing, I'll have a look in my chassis engineering book and see if it helps.

 

[Yotaismygame]

I used dimensions from the PDF from Holley- it will take clearancing of the frame rail, but it will work. Not easily, but it'll work (says the plasma cutter and extra material for x-bracing in the corner of my shop). Same for the crossover. This entire project has been a headache, so I'm used to it.




I'm using 140s, but I have a bit more weight back there. Stock (non-relocated everything) Ranger, I'd use 120s to begin with to make sure it loaded properly....that's assuming you're looking to drag race.

If you're speaking about road racing, I'll have a look in my chassis engineering book and see if it helps.

Very curious to see what the book says. I don't have access to scales to find out each corner weight. I was thinking 120-150 as well. Something road racing oriented but a step down from that since this will be mainly street driven. I have a 15gallon fuel cell between the rails in the back but also have a flare side bed so it's not terribly heavy

Reason I said the holley manifold wont fit is, if you look at pics of that manifold installed it's below the heater hose inlet/outlet. Which is where the frame is on these trucks. You'll be cutting a lot of frame to make that work. Personally I'd find/build something that fits properly before going that route. I would flip almost any aftermarket header or use the forward facing turbo header for the passenger side.