I'm not familiar with anything past the 1994 model year, so this is general advice.
Mechanical: Clean any old dried grease from any moving parts of the window regulators that you can get to, and relubricate. I use white lithium grease, in the tub and spray as needed. Of course you'll be looking for any parts obviously broken or worn.
Electrical: You have to have power AND ground at each motor to make it move. Motor (thus window) direction is simply reversing these polarities.
To check the wiring I like to unplug the motor and put an old-school test light across the two wires on the harness connector. Key on, work the switch and a brightly lit test light is good. Hold the button and wiggle it; if the light dims or goes out look at cleaning* or replacing the switch. For the passenger side, you need to check BOTH switches this way (passenger circuit starts with the driver switch and goes THROUGH the passenger switch).
* Use plastic-safe spray contact cleaner. If you're careful switches can be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled.
While the switch is pressed and test light is lit, grab, move and shake all of the windows' wiring harness that you can get to, especially where the harness approaches and enters the door. The wiring harness to power accessories in the doors in flex areas, like in the door jamb, are susceptible to fraying and breaking, often inside the insulation so it's hard to see the break. While moving harnesses, you're watching for the light to dim or go out in order to find problem areas.
Pay attention to grounding wires. Find where your window harnesses are grounded and make sure that they are clean, not corroded and solidly connected. Typically (like on my older stuff) a ground wire will exit the harness somewhere and be bolted to the body structure.
the passenger window switch did NOT work. I could open the pass window from the drivers switch
For example, that's a classic description of a bad ground on the passenger side.
The motors don't last forever, but if everything checks out mechanically in the regulators and electrically in the harnesses to the motor, you're in a much better position to justify spending the money on new motor(s).
Your truck (assuming it's '05 in your sig) does have differences (so called "improvements") than my older junk, but what I've described is just basic troubleshooting, which should get you started.
The best investment you can make is get a Ford EVTM (Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual) for your year model truck. With patience, they can be found very reasonably on eBay.
As these trucks get older, things need attention (just like people). Do a good job going through and resolving these issues, and the windows should be good for you for a good while to come.
Good luck!