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Finally have to pull the trans.


Dirtman

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It's up there.
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Batteries is goes zzzzzap
 


9723

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Batteries is goes zzzzzap

Battery problem solved: pretty, aren't they (130 LBS each)....but I still have to watch and test them a lot during break-in.



So on to the transmission. This is my final jack modification....I think, I hope. The blocks are screwed in from underneath the siding. 3, 1-5/8" screws each, but the siding is not bolted down. Don't think I need to.

 

9723

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Ok, getting under there tomorrow morning to undo the engine bolts and remove the cross-member. I've already got a rather large scissor jack (7 ton) under the engine.
 

Dirtman

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It's up there.
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It's down there.
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My credo
I poop in the furnace.
Battery problem solved: pretty, aren't they (130 LBS each)....but I still have to watch and test them a lot during break-in.



So on to the transmission. This is my final jack modification....I think, I hope. The blocks are screwed in from underneath the siding. 3, 1-5/8" screws each, but the siding is not bolted down. Don't think I need to.

Do you live in an underground bunker? :dunno:

If so, are you renting any rooms?
 

9723

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Do you live in an underground bunker? :dunno:

If so, are you renting any rooms?
Haha, I actually built off-grid to save money. I retired with a certain amount of cash. Gotta make it last. Currently I'm spending $1200 per year on utillities....including my cell phone. That also includes the price of batteries, and the propane I use for heat, cooking and hot water, but I live by myself without needing to please a woman or kids..................I have my own water well and septic system, so fully off-grid. My only connection to the outside is wireless. I get internet by using my cell phone as a hot-spot.

I was real happy that I had installed a small backup generator when I had 7" of snow on my roof last winter, but it melted in a day and a half.
 
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Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
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Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
Haha, I actually built off-grid to save money. I retired with a certain amount of cash. Gotta make it last. Currently I'm spending $1200 per year on utillities....including my cell phone. That also includes the price of batteries, and the propane I use for heat, cooking and hot water, but I live by myself without needing to please a woman or kids..................
I've wanted to do that. I live alone but just don't have the money to buy solar and propane gear. I have well water, don't use any landlines for cable or phone, have a huge generator but still have city electric, gas, and sewage. And although my main heater is natural gas forced air, my legendary octopus coal furnace is still functional and can heat my house with whatever I throw in it. (Usually pallets). I'd say I can run my house comfortably with all my appliances for about a week on the generator and coal furnace. Indefinitely if I keep buying fuel for the generator but that's far from actually cost saving...
 
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9723

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I've wanted to do that. I live alone but just don't have the money to buy solar and propane gear. I have well water, don't use any landlines for cable or phone, have a huge generator but still have city electric, gas, and sewage. And although my main heater is natural gas forced air, my legendary octopus coal furnace is still functional and can heat my house with whatever I throw in it. (Usually pallets). I'd say I can run my house comfortably with all my appliances for about a week on the generator and coal furnace. Indefinitely if I keep buying fuel for the generator but that's far from actually cost saving...
I worry about the supply lines a lot, but what can I do about it? ....so I don't worry that much.
 

9723

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In my haste, I looked at the starter and seeing it on the engine side...I dismissed it. So of course that'll be the first task this morning. The connectors being on top of the starter, I think will be a pain. There is NO info on this in my book. It just says, "pull them straight up to avoid damaging them".
 

9723

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I knew something would get me on this starter. My book says one top bolt, one bottom nut. Of course mine has three bolts. Three that were very obvious, and I took out a fourth that's between the starter and the exhaust. If it's a trans/motor bolt, it has to come out anyway. ....but the starter is still stuck at the top inside corner. I've taken at least 10 starters out in my life and when you've got the bolts out they tend to fall away easily. This one is stuck in one corner. The same corner as the long bolt I took out that could be an engine/trans bolt. Is there another in that same corner that I'm missing?

So how many bolts hold this starter. My book is wrong, so what, can I even find a parts explosion to find out?

This, from Rock Auto does show three and some do have only two. It appears I've got all the bolts off....and one trans/engine bolt too. Something is holding the starter in tho. Either somethings in the way or it's just sticky. It is loose, except in one corner.

 
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9723

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Yes, I just had to yank on the starter a little. It was stuck on the gasket. It really bugs me that the info in the Haynes book, even in AllData, has the info wrong. Nobody bothers to even write a note that some of them have three bolts instead of two. I know to some of you with lots of experience find it a bit ridiculous on my part to be so cautious, but if you've ever made a stupid mistake that cost you money and time, you'd be careful like me....when working on something you've never seen before. I have to know and wasn't sure till I dug up the image above. I haven't made a dumb mistake in a long time and can't afford to now.

As a result of not having the correct info and having to stop and find it, it took me 3.5 hours to get the starter out....and four of the eng/trans bolts. So I'm done for the day. I won't start in on the trans until tomorrow, when I'll have time to get it done.
 
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RobbieD

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Don't stress, man. You.re getting it done, and it will be right when you do get it done.

The best manual for your truck is the Ford manual(s). If you're interested, with patience you can get them very reasonably off eBay.

I'm slow on my own stuff, because it's my own stuff (plus I can't resist cleaning and restoring whatever is around what I'm working on, dammit).

Also because, at work (automotive transmission plant) when equipment breaks we have to repair it as quickly as possible, usually without the right spares, and always with the office lizards breathing down our necks.

So on MY stuff I take my sweet ass time!

Keep plugging away at it. You'll get there.
 

9723

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Don't stress, man. You.re getting it done, and it will be right when you do get it done.......I'm slow on my own stuff, because it's my own.....So on MY stuff I take my sweet ass time!

Keep plugging away at it. You'll get there.
Yeah I'm stressed. I live out in the boonies. I have one other vehicle that pulled an engine code the other day. I can't get into it 'cause the Ranger is taking the only space I can work on them. If the other car has a meaningful problem, I can't even buy food....or anything else. I think it's ok, but I'm concerned.
 

RobbieD

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Understandable concerns. You're well into the Ranger; is the plan to go ahead and see how well it goes back together?
 

9723

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Understandable concerns. You're well into the Ranger; is the plan to go ahead and see how well it goes back together?
I have to finish it...period. My Acura, once I cleared the code it didn't come back. It was just because I drove 60 miles at 80 mph, then drove around a freight terminal at 5 mph for 40 minutes looking for the address. It shouldn't have, but it got hot. There's problem there, but I won't drive into town again. It hasn't done that in 1.5 years, but I will have to figure out what causes that.

I'm stuck on the top bolts. I got one of the second from top bolt, 'cause I was able to break it loose with my breaker bar. The other side, the bar won't fit in there, so I used a regular 13mm combo and a pipe. Managed a bleeder. I think I need an extra long combo. I have them in 10, 11 and 12mm, but not 13mm. That may work on the top two bolts also.....don't know. Any suggestions?

My book says some models require removal of the wheel wells. I don't want to do that, of course. So at the moment I'm looking for an extra long 13mm. The only thing I've got out here is a Napa, Homedepot and an AZone (within 15 miles). Otherwise I have to order it and wait.
 
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RobbieD

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Bellhousing bolts.
I've been able to get the tops with a box end wrench from the top, tapping with a mallet to break it loose. You'll have to crawl up in there on top of the engine to really get at it.
What I've done more often, especially on V6's, is use several extensions on a ratchet or breaker bar and just go up over the top of trans with the extensions. This may be a problem for you, since you don't want to lower the mission until you get the bell bolts. If you get the jack under the mission, pull the rear crossmember, lower the mission a little, it's almost a straight (but long) shot to the upper bell bolts.

Wheel well.
I wouldn't pull a wheel well unless it becomes obvious that you need to. I recall only needing to do this on one of my 4.0's, to deal with the Y-pipe, which yours doesn't have.
 

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