86 GMC squarebody, my introduction to bodywork.

[dvdswan]

Great site, I'm on there also. Lots of great info, almost as good as TRS.

 

[snoranger]

They put that 4.3 in forklifts too if I’m not mistaken.

Yes they did. Hyster and Yale used them in the 8k-15k forklifts... maybe more.

 

[Dirtman]

Yes they did. Hyster and Yale used them in the 8k-15k forklifts... maybe more.

Not Hyster!!!!! Nooooooooo!!!!!!

My Hyster 50 has a gm 2.5. but I believe it's only a 5,000lb or 6,000lb... It is goes up?

 

[snoranger]

Not Hyster!!!!! Nooooooooo!!!!!!

My Hyster 50 has a gm 2.5. but I believe it's only a 5,000lb or 6,000lb... It is goes up?

If it’s a 50, it’s a 5k machine. The 2.5l is the smaller engine they used in that size machine. They also use a GM 3.0l 4cyl in the 4-6k range... at least in the xl and xm series.

 

[Dirtman]

If it’s a 50, it’s a 5k machine. The 2.5l is the smaller engine they used in that size machine. They also use a GM 3.0l 4cyl in the 4-6k range... at least in the xl and xm series.

We should go halfsies on this abandoned mattress warehouse I found in Neptune. You could store your nonsense and I could do science experiments away from the judgemental eyes of society.

 

[snoranger]

We should go halfsies on this abandoned mattress warehouse I found in Neptune. You could store your nonsense and I could do science experiments away from the judgemental eyes of society.

A warehouse? That’s not going to be big enough to store ALL of my nonsense.

 

[Roert42]

The GM iron duke was popular in forklifts but never seen one with a 4.3. Any V engine was rare in forklifts because of the saddle space needed. A V6/V8 would be a massive waste of space. Forklifts favored anything inline... most industrial equipment did... Engines for that kinda stuff dont need horsepower or even torque, they just need to exist while the massive gear ratios do the work. Find an engine that's reliable and it'll do the job... Aka ford 300's, iron dukes, and 2.3's.

I double checked because I wasn't sure. GM did offer an industrial version of the Vortex 4.3, Gas, LPG, and CNG. I checked a couple of websites and it seems that they were at least used "in Toyota 7 series application prior to mid-2007"

A propane 4.3 would be a cool swap...

 

[Roert42]

Nylabone had a factory in Neptune, this abandoned warehouse smell like old dog food?

 

[Blmpkn]

Aquired a battery for the truck by helping my buddy tow his utility trailer home.

Replaced the stupid side post terminals for regular blocks so the truck can use a regular battery today (stupid gm), and tried to see if it would start.

Wouldn't start.

Pulled a plug and had my fiance turn the truck over while I grounded the plug on the previous owners ghetto angle iron fender brace... no spark.

Gotta find my test light and multimeter and figure out why she no sparky. Hoping to get it running good enough to take the truck to a terrain park for some fun before all the body work begins.

 

[dvdswan]

1. With the ignition on, connect a voltmeter (or test light) to the + post or HEI BAT terminal located on the distributor cap.
+12 volts or Test LIGHT ON: Go to step 3.
No voltage or Test LIGHT OFF: Go to step 2.

2. Check for continuity or voltage drop in the ignition switch and in the circuit from the switch to HEI BAT terminal. Fix missing +12 volt problem.
STARTS: Stop—you’ve found the problem.
NO START: Go to step 3.

3. Remove a spark plug wire and insert a HEI spark tester ($2.99 from Harbor Freight) in line. Crank the engine and observe the light in the tester.
3a. Alternatively remove a spark plug wire and insert a metallic extension in the end of the wire. Using insulated pliers, hold the spark plug wire no more than .25 inch away from the engine block while cranking the engine. If you use the alternate method be very careful to hold the wire no more than .25 inch away from the engine. Greater distances can cause damage to the ignition module.

LIGHT FLASH IN TESTER or SPARK JUMP TO ENGINE BLOCK: The problem is not the ignition system. Check the fuel system, spark plugs, timing, and internal engine condition.
No light or NO SPARK: Go to step 4.

4. Remove and inspect the distributor cap for cracks and carbon-tracking. Visually inspect the distributor mechanism for moisture, corrosion, or burns. Repair as needed.
STARTS: Stop—you’ve fixed it.
NO START: Go to step 5.

5. Set an ohmmeter to the low scale. Connect the leads across the HEI’s “BAT” and “TACH” terminals.

ABOVE 1 OHM: Replace coil. If vehicle still doesn’t start, go to step 6.
0-1 OHM: Go to step 6.

6. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the “BAT” terminal and the other lead to the coil contact in the inside-center of the cap. Switch the first lead to the “TACH” terminal and recheck.
EITHER TEST READS 6K to 30K: Coil is OK. Go to Step 11.
BOTH TESTS READ INFINITY: Replace the coil. If the engine still won’t start, go to step 7.

7. Remove the green and white leads from the HEI control module. Connect the ohmmeter from ground to either lead.
INFINITE reading: Go to step 8.
LESS THAN INFINITY: Replace the pickup coil. If the engine still won’t start, replace the module.

8. Connect the ohmmeter across the green and white pick up coil leads.
READS 500-1,500 OHMS: Repeat Steps 7 and 8 while moving the vacuum advance with a screwdriver. If reading is still OK, replace the module.
DOES NOT READ 500-1,500 OHMS: Replace pickup coil. If the engine still doesn’t start, replace the module.

That is it. You will notice that there is really no diagnosis of the module. When everything else reads correct the module is replaced by default. In my case the coil read open. replacing it did not fix the problem so I had to replace the module also. BOTH items were bad and I assume the coil took out the module

 

[scotts90ranger]

Forklifts can have any and all engines depending on the size, I don't want to jack the thread too much but Gm just discontinued the 4.3L about 2 years ago for the industrial and marine industry, there's still people making them for those uses... For the sake of argument I've seen and worked on a Hoist forklift with a propane injected 8.1L engine... that was a big forklift... The 3.0L is more common and is a beast of an engine, a lot of Hysters used the GM 2.4L Family II engine that's european design made in Brazil, but they stopped making those years ago... GM doesn't offer jack anymore for the industrial side of things, the 5.7L is still made but in less quantity for more $$. We do engines for the smaller guys that need custom engine setups, a few companies that make machinery rigging forklifts with adjustable wheelbases, some for carry deck cranes and other big odd stuff...

 

[Blmpkn]

1. With the ignition on, connect a voltmeter (or test light) to the + post or HEI BAT terminal located on the distributor cap.
+12 volts or Test LIGHT ON: Go to step 3.
No voltage or Test LIGHT OFF: Go to step 2.

2. Check for continuity or voltage drop in the ignition switch and in the circuit from the switch to HEI BAT terminal. Fix missing +12 volt problem.
STARTS: Stop—you’ve found the problem.
NO START: Go to step 3.

3. Remove a spark plug wire and insert a HEI spark tester ($2.99 from Harbor Freight) in line. Crank the engine and observe the light in the tester.
3a. Alternatively remove a spark plug wire and insert a metallic extension in the end of the wire. Using insulated pliers, hold the spark plug wire no more than .25 inch away from the engine block while cranking the engine. If you use the alternate method be very careful to hold the wire no more than .25 inch away from the engine. Greater distances can cause damage to the ignition module.

LIGHT FLASH IN TESTER or SPARK JUMP TO ENGINE BLOCK: The problem is not the ignition system. Check the fuel system, spark plugs, timing, and internal engine condition.
No light or NO SPARK: Go to step 4.

4. Remove and inspect the distributor cap for cracks and carbon-tracking. Visually inspect the distributor mechanism for moisture, corrosion, or burns. Repair as needed.
STARTS: Stop—you’ve fixed it.
NO START: Go to step 5.

5. Set an ohmmeter to the low scale. Connect the leads across the HEI’s “BAT” and “TACH” terminals.

ABOVE 1 OHM: Replace coil. If vehicle still doesn’t start, go to step 6.
0-1 OHM: Go to step 6.

6. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the “BAT” terminal and the other lead to the coil contact in the inside-center of the cap. Switch the first lead to the “TACH” terminal and recheck.
EITHER TEST READS 6K to 30K: Coil is OK. Go to Step 11.
BOTH TESTS READ INFINITY: Replace the coil. If the engine still won’t start, go to step 7.

7. Remove the green and white leads from the HEI control module. Connect the ohmmeter from ground to either lead.
INFINITE reading: Go to step 8.
LESS THAN INFINITY: Replace the pickup coil. If the engine still won’t start, replace the module.

8. Connect the ohmmeter across the green and white pick up coil leads.
READS 500-1,500 OHMS: Repeat Steps 7 and 8 while moving the vacuum advance with a screwdriver. If reading is still OK, replace the module.
DOES NOT READ 500-1,500 OHMS: Replace pickup coil. If the engine still doesn’t start, replace the module.

That is it. You will notice that there is really no diagnosis of the module. When everything else reads correct the module is replaced by default. In my case the coil read open. replacing it did not fix the problem so I had to replace the module also. BOTH items were bad and I assume the coil took out the module

This is awesome, thank you! Saves me the trouble of searching through Google lol.

Forklifts can have any and all engines depending on the size, I don't want to jack the thread too much but Gm just discontinued the 4.3L about 2 years ago for the industrial and marine industry, there's still people making them for those uses... For the sake of argument I've seen and worked on a Hoist forklift with a propane injected 8.1L engine... that was a big forklift... The 3.0L is more common and is a beast of an engine, a lot of Hysters used the GM 2.4L Family II engine that's european design made in Brazil, but they stopped making those years ago... GM doesn't offer jack anymore for the industrial side of things, the 5.7L is still made but in less quantity for more $$. We do engines for the smaller guys that need custom engine setups, a few companies that make machinery rigging forklifts with adjustable wheelbases, some for carry deck cranes and other big odd stuff...

Must be a massive forklift to need an 8.1 lol, I wouldn't mind putting one in the truck.. but they're getting kinda tough to find locally. Could always buy one online I guess.

Any idea the differences between an Industrial 4.3 and an automotive one?

 

[scotts90ranger]

Camshaft mainly, torque peak is somewhere between 1800-2400rpm, I don't remember where in there or it could be flat...

 

[Blmpkn]

That's what I had figured.

 

[dvdswan]

I copied it from one of the GM sites too. I had an issue with my 78 and saved it.