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4.56 gears in a 7.5 with a lockrite


Dirtman

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How do you think they were machined in the first place? :icon_rofl:
 


ericbphoto

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How do you think they were machined in the first place? :icon_rofl:
Gears are often machined and then heat treated to harden them.
 

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Carbide is brittle and I'd be surprised if it held together very long at the speeds a Dremel can run, cutting something hardened. Even if it didn't shatter, likely dig in and bounce around something terrible.

Big machines, where the work & cutter can be both held down solidly (reduces vibration) and the cutter being fed in at a constant rate, another story.

Grinding job for sure.
 

Rowdy Fitzgerald

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So why not remove the ring gear, put the dowel in and reinstall the gear?
 

ericbphoto

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So why not remove the ring gear, put the dowel in and reinstall the gear?
Can’t assemble it that way. Carrier and ring gear must be installed before side gears, spider gears and cross pin can be installed. The cross pin holds it all together.
 

Dirtman

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So why not remove the ring gear, put the dowel in and reinstall the gear?
Because you can't remove the ring gear without removing the carrier. If you put the pin in and then install the ring gear, and put the carrier back in how would you get the c-clips back onto the axle shafts with the pin now stuck? :icon_thumby:
 

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Ah, gotchya. I haven’t tore into a C-clip axle yet. Only delt with full and semi floaters. I’ll be rebuilding my first 8.8 next month.
 

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I think I just used the red cutting wheels, I use those for almost everything... but one of the bigger orange stones would work just fine too.
 

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Do you remember what bit you used on your Dremel?
Yeah various stones (orange or brown, I didn't try the green ones), and also the drum sander bit (using a coarse grit band). You just need to go a little bit at a time until the pin clears without binding against the gear teeth.
 

ecgreen

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So the saga continues! Got the axles back from the gear guys. Here are two pics showing the pin pushed out against the ring gear. Which side would you grind? I would have to grind two
teeth in the top pic and only one in the bottom pic. BUT...I would have to remove way more material in the bottom pic. Any thoughts, comments or general mockery?


ring gear pre-cut other side.jpg
ring gear pre-cut.jpg
 

Dirtman

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As long as you don't grind into the mark where the pinion teeth mesh the ring gear you are fine. Whichever side that will leave the grinding farther away from the contact point would be my choice even if it means doing two teeth. They look like a fairly similar in the amount of material that would need to be removed but I'm just looking at a pic so use your best judgement there.
 

ecgreen

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As long as you don't grind into the mark where the pinion teeth mesh the ring gear you are fine. Whichever side that will leave the grinding farther away from the contact point would be my choice even if it means doing two teeth.
Yeah, so on the bottom pic, the contact patch on the inside of the tooth (where you can't see) is much further in towards the pin. Right now I am thinking of doing the two teeth one...
 

ecgreen

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So what if I happen to grind into the contact patch? Are we talking end of the road for this ring and pinion? Noisy? Gotta imagine it wouldn't be good.
 

Dirtman

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41N 75W
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2.3 (4 Cylinder)
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It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
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Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
So what if I happen to grind into the contact patch? Are we talking end of the road for this ring and pinion? Noisy? Gotta imagine it wouldn't be good.
Dunno what would happen but I can't imagine it would be healthy for the pinion to be striking a dead spot on the ring gear. :dunno:

You shouldn't need to remove that much material though. All the ones I've seen done left plenty of material for full contact and been able to pull the pin out.
 
Last edited:

ecgreen

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Let's hope...this is probably the one job I am the least excited about attempting so far in my build LMAO! Whats the worst that could happen? BWHAHAHAHA
 

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