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No clutch pressure


beckers0347

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I recently replace my clutch master and slave cylinder and I wasn't a hug fan of the press in fittings so I bought adapters to to make a 4an thread and added a braided steel line I've bleed the system I've gone through almost 2 quarts of break fluid never let a reservoir run dry and there is no air comming out of the bleeder valve but there is still no clutch pressure
 


Eddo Rogue

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gotta bleed it...preferable parked uphill...maybe get a mity vac
 

beckers0347

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So I have pressure now, but when I engage the clutch pedal while the truck is running it makes a loud grinding noise and won't Go into gear
 

rusty ol ranger

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So I have pressure now, but when I engage the clutch pedal while the truck is running it makes a loud grinding noise and won't Go into gear
Sounds like its not disengaging all the way...because theres still air in it.
 

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Did your new slave come with the throwout bearing attached?

You can get them either way, most come with it attached, but if you shop price then without throwout bearing would be cheaper

Did you replace the pressure plate and clutch disc, or just the disc?
Old pressure plate may have been SAC(self adjusting) and these need to be reset if reused
 

beckers0347

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So it's a new pressure plate and clutch disk as well as a new throw out bearing and slave cylinder and master cylinder and everything in between the only thing that isn't new is the fly wheel everything is brand new, I've been bleeding since 12 and I can't fix this problem I've gone through almost a gallon of break fluid
 

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Then you have a defective new Master cylinder most likely

Slave just expands

Master has a check valve that closes when pedal is pressed down, so all the fluid flows down to the slave expanding it to release the pressure plate springs hold disc against flywheel

If you have a helper open reservoir and remove air dam(black rubber cup)
Have them press down on the pedal while you watch fluid level in reservoir, it should NOT MOVE, if it moves then Master is defective

Master also needs to be pre-bled because of the angle it sits at
If this wasn't done or it didn't come that way, then you will need to pull Master out
With master out and still connected, point pushrod down and open bleeder(need helper), push the pushrod in and that will push any air out of master and into the hose so it can be bled out with normal bleeding


Air dam is there to reduce brake fluid's contact with moisture in the air, same type of thing on brake's master cylinder reservoir, but attached to the cap
It doesn't need to be there when bleeding or pumping the clutch pedal
 

beckers0347

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Okay thank you I have a helper on the way the master was not pre bled so I will do that should I do that before or after checking to see if the master cylinder is bad?
 

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Check if you get reverse flow into reservoir first
 

beckers0347

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Tested the master and it's good, bench bled my master cylinder got lots of air out, still same problem, checked my transmission fluid level and it's good, bled the clutch some more and still doesn't go into gear, i should also mention that after bleeding the clutch it doesn't have any pressure unless I pump the clutch then it builds pressure
 
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beckers0347

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Update clutch works but still struggles to go into gear and I don't believe it's the clutch because weather the car is off or on if struggles to go into gear and second gear doesn't work at all on or off
 

scotts90ranger

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I just changed my master cylinder tonight, and will run you through some things to hopefully help...

If at all possible pull the master cylinder and bench bleed it. By bench bleed I mean clamp the master cylinder in a vise with the push rod pointing down slightly so the reservoir hose is higher than the output port (with the hose attached to the master, everything including the quick connect on the transmission end), hold the reservoir high and have it full with the cap off, hang the hose down so that all air goes up, push the plunger in until air stops going to the reservoir and the rod is solid (mine moved 1/8" still). Now reinstall the assembly, the pedal might be a little soft at this point, push the pedal to the floor, slip your foot off, repeat like 10 times, this pulls air out of the master cylinder piston. Now crack the bleeder port at the slave with no pedal input.

That's roughly the procedure I used tonight and the pedal feels like new, did the whole thing by myself with minimal cussing, only spilled 1/3 of an adult beverage when letting the jack down...
 

beckers0347

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I just changed my master cylinder tonight, and will run you through some things to hopefully help...

If at all possible pull the master cylinder and bench bleed it. By bench bleed I mean clamp the master cylinder in a vise with the push rod pointing down slightly so the reservoir hose is higher than the output port (with the hose attached to the master, everything including the quick connect on the transmission end), hold the reservoir high and have it full with the cap off, hang the hose down so that all air goes up, push the plunger in until air stops going to the reservoir and the rod is solid (mine moved 1/8" still). Now reinstall the assembly, the pedal might be a little soft at this point, push the pedal to the floor, slip your foot off, repeat like 10 times, this pulls air out of the master cylinder piston. Now crack the bleeder port at the slave with no pedal input.

That's roughly the procedure I used tonight and the pedal feels like new, did the whole thing by myself with minimal cussing, only spilled 1/3 of an adult beverage when letting the jack down...
Ya I did all that but I struggle putting my transmission in gear with the car off and second doesn't work and this all happened after putting my slave in, I've bench bled my master cylinder multiple times and I've bled the whole system I've even reverse bled it but my transmission is having trouble going into her no matter what
 

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