Clutch hydraulic issues i think

[Kiyp]

Hi i have a 1999 rwd 2.5l manual ford ranger, i have been having the issue where when i first start her up its really difficult to put her into gear, last night it took me about a minute to jam it into reverse and then a good 20 seconds to put her in first, however once i get driving for a little while it gets easier and easier, this issue wasnt really a thing just the other day and i really need to be able to use my truck and if this happens when im trying to drive then it will very quickly become unusable, the clutch pedal seems a little soft however not really any more soft than it has ever felt to me, this is the only manual vehicle i have ever driven so i have no idea if its actually soft or not

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Sounds like there is air in the system and it needs bleeding short term. Unfortunately you probably need to replace the slave cylinder which means removing the transmission to access it.
Check the master cylinder for fluid loss.

 

[Kiyp]

Sounds like there is air in the system and it needs bleeding short term. Unfortunately you probably need to replace the slave cylinder which means removing the transmission to access it.
Check the master cylinder for fluid loss.

No fluid loss as far as i can tell, dropping the tranny would be a bit difficult for me to do at home for a few reasons, so just for labor how much do you think a mechanic would charge to replace it assuming i supply the parts?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

That really depends, I do all my own work. WAG is $400.

 

[Kiyp]

Well, there goes my next paycheck, guess i have to postpone my front rotors and pads replacement

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

You could try vacuum bleeding the slave. Search on site, I had a pic and explanation somewhere how to make your own vacuum bleeder using engine vacuum. That would at least give you more time to save some money.
I don't have access to the pics or I would post it again. Basically use a mason jar, some clear flexible plastic hose. Drill 2 holes just slightly smaller than the hose in the lid. About 6' of hose in one hole, and enough hose to reach from the rear of the truck to the engine in the other hole. You can use this for bleeding brakes too. Hook the long hose to engine vacuum nipple, the other end to the bleeder. Fire up the engine. Keep an eye on the master cylinder, don't let it empty. Also keep an eye on the jar, it will fill fairly quick. Once clean fluid is coming out then you're done. You will probably be pulling air from around the bleeder so the fluid will look like a milkshake. Don't worry, its still pulling out the bad stuff along with the extra air.

 

[Kiyp]

You could try vacuum bleeding the slave. Search on site, I had a pic and explanation somewhere how to make your own vacuum bleeder using engine vacuum. That would at least give you more time to save some money.

That could help. About how difficult and how much time would you say is involved replacing the slave cylinder, i might wind up just having to do it myself since i am not the most wealthy person

 

[franklin2]

He said it gets better as he drives it. What type of trans does a 1999 have and what type of oil does it require? Is it a trans that requires automatic fluid and maybe someone has put gear oil in it? Does it have any oil in the trans or is it low?

I know my early 5 speeds take gear oil, do not know what the later trannies take.

 

[pjtoledo]

how about you try some diagnostics first?

park it on level ground, engine off. can you shift thru the gears? with clutch & without

next test
level ground, engine off, parking brake released. put it in first, hold clutch down, start it,,,does it start creeping forward?

if no creeping:
continuation of second test: engine still running, slowly let up the clutch,,where does it start creeping forward?

the fluid in the clutch reservoir should be about 1 inch below the top. if its too full it spills out when you put the
rubber diaphram thingie back in. there may be a small line in there to mark hi/low level.

 

[Kiyp]

how about you try some diagnostics first?

park it on level ground, engine off. can you shift thru the gears? with clutch & without

next test
level ground, engine off, parking brake released. put it in first, hold clutch down, start it,,,does it start creeping forward?

if no creeping:
continuation of second test: engine still running, slowly let up the clutch,,where does it start creeping forward?

the fluid in the clutch reservoir should be about 1 inch below the top. if its too full it spills out when you put the
rubber diaphram thingie back in. there may be a small line in there to mark hi/l

how about you try some diagnostics first?

park it on level ground, engine off. can you shift thru the gears? with clutch & without

next test
level ground, engine off, parking brake released. put it in first, hold clutch down, start it,,,does it start creeping forward?

if no creeping:
continuation of second test: engine still running, slowly let up the clutch,,where does it start creeping forward?

the fluid in the clutch reservoir should be about 1 inch below the top. if its too full it spills out when you put the
rubber diaphram thingie back in. there may be a small line in there to mark hi/low level.

Firstly id like to say it has stopped getting better after running for a while, its really hard to drive now, it moves freely through the gears when off with and without the clutch, when in first engine off it seems to creep forwards 90% of the time, when i checked the fluid originally i checked the wrong thing, the clutch reservoir is completely empty, also i do not see any rubber diaphragm

 

[Kiyp]

how about you try some diagnostics first?

park it on level ground, engine off. can you shift thru the gears? with clutch & without

next test
level ground, engine off, parking brake released. put it in first, hold clutch down, start it,,,does it start creeping forward?

if no creeping:
continuation of second test: engine still running, slowly let up the clutch,,where does it start creeping forward?

the fluid in the clutch reservoir should be about 1 inch below the top. if its too full it spills out when you put the
rubber diaphram thingie back in. there may be a small line in there to mark hi/low level.

I would assume this means i have some sort of leak in the hydraulic clutch system, and based on the surface area that the seal of the slace cylinder must cover i wouldn't be surprised if it is from that, however i am not sure how to check where the leak is, if it is caused by a failed part, and weather i should just fill it with fluid or if i need to bleed it first

 

[scotts90ranger]

first get that chunk of goo out of there then top it off with brake fluid, that will get you going for a while. The cheat on bleeding that is to put the pedal to the floor and slip your foot off 3 or 4 times (engine off and or in neutral).

You still have a leak somewhere, how fast it is is very dependent... I would crawl underneath and check for wet areas on the drivers side of the trans, look at the clutch line (black tube sticking out the front drivers side center area) and the bleeder screw near it, if dry there's a rubber inspection cover a little in front of that, see if that's wet. There's also a gap between the oil pan and transmission, it could be wet with oil but you can tell oil versus brake fluid by rubbing it between your fingers, oil is slick brake fluid is not really... There's also the master cylinder but I haven't had one of those leak on me, I think they leak into the cab so if you reach up under the clutch pedal and look at the clutch sensor to see if it is wet that should tell.

 

[Kiyp]

first get that chunk of goo out of there then top it off with brake fluid, that will get you going for a while. The cheat on bleeding that is to put the pedal to the floor and slip your foot off 3 or 4 times (engine off and or in neutral).

You still have a leak somewhere, how fast it is is very dependent... I would crawl underneath and check for wet areas on the drivers side of the trans, look at the clutch line (black tube sticking out the front drivers side center area) and the bleeder screw near it, if dry there's a rubber inspection cover a little in front of that, see if that's wet. There's also a gap between the oil pan and transmission, it could be wet with oil but you can tell oil versus brake fluid by rubbing it between your fingers, oil is slick brake fluid is not really... There's also the master cylinder but I haven't had one of those leak on me, I think they leak into the cab so if you reach up under the clutch pedal and look at the clutch sensor to see if it is wet that should tell.

Thank you so much, you just saved me a lot of time and money, its the master cylinder not the slave cylinder, i thought it was a stain in my carpet but there is a big blotch where break fluid has been dripping under the clutch pedal and its been there since before i got it a couple months ago, i topped her off and she shifts ok again, not great but at least im not wearing out my arm and bruising my knuckles when it eventually slams forward and my hand flies into the cigarette lighter, also surprisingly i never noticed but my dust cover is missing, odd, but at least i can see the slave cylinder is relatively new, although it looks like the O'riley's one ive heard bad things about, oh well, now i have to see how difficult it is to replace the master cylinder

 

[Kiyp]

how about you try some diagnostics first?

park it on level ground, engine off. can you shift thru the gears? with clutch & without

next test
level ground, engine off, parking brake released. put it in first, hold clutch down, start it,,,does it start creeping forward?

if no creeping:
continuation of second test: engine still running, slowly let up the clutch,,where does it start creeping forward?

the fluid in the clutch reservoir should be about 1 inch below the top. if its too full it spills out when you put the
rubber diaphram thingie back in. there may be a small line in there to mark hi/low level.

Thank you as well for the same reasons, big help

 

[scotts90ranger]

Master isn't horrible, it's been almost a decade since I've done it (I think 2011 or 2012). The hard part can be getting the quick release at the transmission to release, if it's clean and the sleeve is in place for the quick release just push it inward evenly (I have a tool somewhere, but never know where when I need it) while pushing in on the line a little. Once that's off climb under the dash and try to get the linkage off the pedal, the black bushing clip can be a pain but basically lift the 4 nubs out of the slot and it should slide off, then get the switch off the linkage, there's a white plastic slider that comes off to slide over the link then the switch comes off. Then on the firewall there's 2 or 3 nuts I believe or bolts into the firewall, I don't remember. Pull the whole assembly out the top after you unbolt the reservoir. From there there's a roll pin holding the clutch line to the master, take that out with a pin punch then put the line in the new master (I would drain the old fluid out first, stick it upside down and push something clean into the valve on the quick release end). Now fill it with fluid and press the piston on the new master a bunch of times until it is solid, keep checking the fluid level. Once it is solid it is fully bled, reinstall into the vehicle and put everything back where you found it...