New starter grinding and "engaging" Engine is be turned somehow. 2.8L V6

[MadMax_636]

I’ve swapped the starter drive gear on three different trucks now, with great luck. At NAPA , it’s a BWD part number SD353.

As for your solenoid, does it stop trying to engage if you pull the small (coil) wire off?

Nope, It would only stop if I smacked with a wrench. Then It would stop.

 

[RobbieD]

It really sounds like you have some kind of bad juju going with your main wiring. Try to get the battery ground cables back to the original setup. Three main things need to be connected to the battery NEG post with good thick cables: the engine block, the truck's body, and the frame.

Edit / add: And remove the wire going from battery NEG post to the solenoid.

 

[MadMax_636]

It really sounds like you have some kind of bad juju going with your main wiring. Try to get the battery ground cables back to the original setup. Three main things need to be connected to the battery NEG post with good thick cables: the engine block, the truck's body, and the frame.

Edit / add: And remove the wire going from battery NEG post to the solenoid.

ok, Heres what I have coming off my NEG post. Cable to the engine, engine to the body. Other than that idk what else.

Im gonna try another starter (The one I got off rockauto) again after fiddling around with it. Since it would just freewheel after 1 full start.

I can post photos and videos if needed.

I think I posted it here. A video another guy posted of the sound his was making? Minus the starting.

 

[MadMax_636]

Edit / add: And remove the wire going from battery NEG post to the solenoid.

Its not on the posts. Its on the back. Where it mounts/mates with the body. To act as a extra ground of it.

 

[RobbieD]

I can see the symptoms that you're having being caused by a problem with your main grounding back to the battery. There's no need for an "extra ground" to the starter solenoid. Electricity follows the path of least resistance; if there's a problem in the original main ground cables, a lot of current can flow through your "extra ground" and that can cause some weird problems.

Honestly, if it were me I would be looking real hard at your main ground cables, AND disconnect that extra ground wire to the starter relay bracket. If anything, connect that wire to the radiator support or inner fender away from the solenoid. Your best approach at this point, is to get the main power and ground wiring back to an original, good state. No fraying or corrosion on the cables or terminals, ends bolted tight to clean, bare metal.

Did you replace the battery ground cable with a new one? And did you ever try using jumper cables to substitute, or test ground, the engine to the battery?

I work nights; it'll be morning before I'm back on.

Good luck!

 

[MadMax_636]

I can see the symptoms that you're having being caused by a problem with your main grounding back to the battery. There's no need for an "extra ground" to the starter solenoid. Electricity follows the path of least resistance; if there's a problem in the original main ground cables, a lot of current can flow through your "extra ground" and that can cause some weird problems.

Honestly, if it were me I would be looking real hard at your main ground cables, AND disconnect that extra ground wire to the starter relay bracket. If anything, connect that wire to the radiator support or inner fender away from the solenoid. Your best approach at this point, is to get the main power and ground wiring back to an original, good state. No fraying or corrosion on the cables or terminals, ends bolted tight to clean, bare metal.

Did you replace the battery ground cable with a new one? And did you ever try using jumper cables to substitute, or test ground, the engine to the battery?

I work nights; it'll be morning before I'm back on.

Good luck!

Thanks man, No I haven't changed the ground cables. Its all original to the way it was went i bought it.

Im assuming its a ground to the engine and frame from the NEG post on the battery. I haven't changed that. When I changed fender solenoid (Starting relay) it had a extra ground from the NEG Post to the back of the relay. Im assuming acting as a fender/body ground.

When I first changed it (Ive been through 2. The first one worked and so did the starter. For ONE TIME ONLY. Then it just started sticking. Then I replaced it and it did the same thing. Stuck. Both times the wiring was the same as it was when the truck was first bought (When I bought it) and when it ran.

 

[Bgunner]

Since I am not that familiar with the 2.8's Take this for what it is worth, a shot in the dark but an educated one, If the new starters keep having this issue it makes me think of a misalignment of the starter not letting the gear release for the flywheel easily. A couple degrees off and the starter gear can bind in the flywheel. When you change your starter over to the one from RockAuto make sure the mounting surfaces are clean and clear. Chevy had major issues with these back in the 80's and need shims to align them proper. Just some food for thought when you go to swap out the starter.

a feeler gauge may be in order if the new starter does it again to find how tight the teeth are meshing.

 

[MadMax_636]

Since I am not that familiar with the 2.8's Take this for what it is worth, a shot in the dark but an educated one, If the new starters keep having this issue it makes me think of a misalignment of the starter not letting the gear release for the flywheel easily. A couple degrees off and the starter gear can bind in the flywheel. When you change your starter over to the one from RockAuto make sure the mounting surfaces are clean and clear. Chevy had major issues with these back in the 80's and need shims to align them proper. Just some food for thought when you go to swap out the starter.

a feeler gauge may be in order if the new starter does it again to find how tight the teeth are meshing.

Thanks, Ive tried shimming a past starter but its quite difficult since its only got 2 bolts. Which dont really let you move it in a specific way.
The starter I got from Rockauto (The one I posted a link to) worked out of it the box. The one Ive got on it now just grinds. So idk how they are different. Maybe in one small way like you said. Maybe by a couple degrees off or so. Its just weird and driving my nuts!

 

[bobbywalter]

The car quest remanned from advanced auto.

Uhhh.

I meant actual part number. And what your ordering it for.

Sounds to me like it has the wrong flywheel and spacer.

 

[MadMax_636]

What do you mean by

And what your ordering it for.

Sounds to me like it has the wrong flywheel and spacer.

Heres the part number for the starter from Advance auto. 3188S

I havent ordered anything yet. I ordered a starter off RockAuto which worked once and then crapped the bed. Just freewheeled.
The advanced auto starter just grinds when I turn the key. Same thing when I tried to use the Oreillys starter (I forget the model number or brand) I know I cant find it on their site anymore and it was around 80 bucks or so.

Sorry for any confusion btw.

 

[bobbywalter]

With the key off....and starter off of the truck.

Manually roll it over twice via the torque converter bolts.....watch for flex or distortion.

Measure the face offset.

C5 flexplate is not the same as a4ld.

 

[MadMax_636]

C5 flexplate is not the same as a4ld.

Not to be annoying, What is a a4ld? Also, my truck in a 5 speed. So its got a flywheel. Ive also checked the ring gear teeth. None were chewed or missing. They looked fine. Fine enough for a 30+ year old truck.

 

[bobbywalter]

so its not grinding, as its not engaging at all.


for some reason i thought it was an auto.


do you know what year transmission and model and what year flywheel is on it?

 

[MadMax_636]

so its not grinding, as its not engaging at all.


for some reason i thought it was an auto.


do you know what year transmission and model and what year flywheel is on it?

Im not sure about the flywheel year (I assume its original) but I do know Im have a later 80s ranger 5 speed. If that sounds right.

I know what it looks like and went searching on RockAuto for rebuilt ones that looked like mine. The later model ranger 5 speeds looked the most like it.

 

[bobbywalter]

i have run into spacing issues. but without actually seeing your setup i cant make any determinations...i would pop the cover off of the sol and make sure the lil fawker is doing its job.....and force it too if it was not. i have had to do that before....too many times mudding...