Stock 1990 ext cab 4x4 alignment

[rcknrog]

There is an excellent article in the "how to tech" section of this website that explains the ttb design, how it works and how to set it up. Between that article and what bobbywalter explained, you can probably get it corrected yourself. Once you understand the geometry and what adjustments are available, it isn't difficult to work with.

Follow this link. About half way through the article it gets into alignment procedure.
Ttb steering info

Thanks I wish I were handy that way. If you need some sheet rocking done I’m your man though.

 

[rcknrog]

My brother did mine, he is a sr master tech at the local dealer. I had him do it because I knew he wouldn't pass it until it was right.

From my understanding is that everything has to be set each time. You set the toe and camber you bounce (correct term is jounce I guess) the crap out of the truck to zero out the suspension and then the machine checks it. Then you adjust it, reset toe jounce it and try it again. Once that is dialed in then you set the caster.

Finding a tech to stick it out and get it right is going to be tough.

@4x4junkie

Yea I bet it will be. Thank you

 

[rcknrog]

That was referenced to Adsm

My apologies thanks for your time! Roger

 

[Josh B]

Here's a thing on checking the frame (it's from 93/94 manual, but I think that might not matter in this) I'll get some info on caster and camber too but it might take a while. Maybe you can read around the forum a bit and try to make some friends

Diagonal or X Frame Checking Method, Ranger/Explorer

Frame alignment can be checked without removing the vehicle body from the frame by using the diagonal or X checking method.

This method should be used to identify misalignment prior to any attempt to straighten a frame.

1. Place the vehicle on a clean, level floor and set the parking brake.

2. Select at least four points along one frame side member and very carefully transfer these points to the floor with a plumb bob. If desired, paper can be taped on the floor along both sides of the vehicle below the frame. Mark the point on the floor as accurately as possible.

3. Locate the corresponding points along the opposite frame side member and very carefully transfer these points to the floor in the same manner.

4. Move the vehicle away from the marks on the floor, and measure between diagonal points. Both corresponding measurements should be equal within 6.35mm (1/4 inch). Measure diagonally between all points on the floor.

5. Measure between the corresponding points parallel to the frame side members. These measurements should be within 6.35mm (1/4 inch) of each other.

The squareness of the frame side member web and the lower flanges at the spring hangers should be within 1.59mm (1/16 inch). The squareness of the side member web at the steering gear mounting location should be within 1.59mm (1/16). The web and the flange should be square at all other points within 3.18mm (1/8 inch).

Any point on one side member should be within 3.18mm (1/8 inch) ahead, behind, above, or below the corresponding point on the opposite side member. The frame side member should not be bowed more than 3.18mm (1/8 inch) for each 2540mm (100 inches) of frame length. The overall width of frame should not vary more than 3.18mm (1/8 inch). The frame and side member web and flanges should be square to each other and within 3.18mm (1/8 inch).

 

[Josh B]

Sorry, but I had to charge my camera batteries, which are wore out, because the manual i have is on CD(came out even before windows 95), and won't run on 10, and has to be photographed off an XP to shuffle over onto 10.
Well while charging I got to watching an old VCR I been testing from Salvation Army(circa 1999) and wound up watching Swiss Family Robinson, which is still playing rather well, but after the batteries showed green wouldn't power the camera, so I just can't post those details tonight. I will certainly try again tomorrow(if I don't get too distracted by other

 

[rcknrog]

Here's a thing on checking the frame (it's from 93/94 manual, but I think that might not matter in this) I'll get some info on caster and camber too but it might take a while. Maybe you can read around the forum a bit and try to make some friends

Diagonal or X Frame Checking Method, Ranger/Explorer

Frame alignment can be checked without removing the vehicle body from the frame by using the diagonal or X checking method.

This method should be used to identify misalignment prior to any attempt to straighten a frame.

1. Place the vehicle on a clean, level floor and set the parking brake.

2. Select at least four points along one frame side member and very carefully transfer these points to the floor with a plumb bob. If desired, paper can be taped on the floor along both sides of the vehicle below the frame. Mark the point on the floor as accurately as possible.

3. Locate the corresponding points along the opposite frame side member and very carefully transfer these points to the floor in the same manner.

4. Move the vehicle away from the marks on the floor, and measure between diagonal points. Both corresponding measurements should be equal within 6.35mm (1/4 inch). Measure diagonally between all points on the floor.

5. Measure between the corresponding points parallel to the frame side members. These measurements should be within 6.35mm (1/4 inch) of each other.

The squareness of the frame side member web and the lower flanges at the spring hangers should be within 1.59mm (1/16 inch). The squareness of the side member web at the steering gear mounting location should be within 1.59mm (1/16). The web and the flange should be square at all other points within 3.18mm (1/8 inch).

Any point on one side member should be within 3.18mm (1/8 inch) ahead, behind, above, or below the corresponding point on the opposite side member. The frame side member should not be bowed more than 3.18mm (1/8 inch) for each 2540mm (100 inches) of frame length. The overall width of frame should not vary more than 3.18mm (1/8 inch). The frame and side member web and flanges should be square to each other and within 3.18mm (1/8 inch).

Here's a thing on checking the frame (it's from 93/94 manual, but I think that might not matter in this) I'll get some info on caster and camber too but it might take a while. Maybe you can read around the forum a bit and try to make some friends

Diagonal or X Frame Checking Method, Ranger/Explorer

Frame alignment can be checked without removing the vehicle body from the frame by using the diagonal or X checking method.

This method should be used to identify misalignment prior to any attempt to straighten a frame.

1. Place the vehicle on a clean, level floor and set the parking brake.

2. Select at least four points along one frame side member and very carefully transfer these points to the floor with a plumb bob. If desired, paper can be taped on the floor along both sides of the vehicle below the frame. Mark the point on the floor as accurately as possible.

3. Locate the corresponding points along the opposite frame side member and very carefully transfer these points to the floor in the same manner.

4. Move the vehicle away from the marks on the floor, and measure between diagonal points. Both corresponding measurements should be equal within 6.35mm (1/4 inch). Measure diagonally between all points on the floor.

5. Measure between the corresponding points parallel to the frame side members. These measurements should be within 6.35mm (1/4 inch) of each other.

The squareness of the frame side member web and the lower flanges at the spring hangers should be within 1.59mm (1/16 inch). The squareness of the side member web at the steering gear mounting location should be within 1.59mm (1/16). The web and the flange should be square at all other points within 3.18mm (1/8 inch).

Any point on one side member should be within 3.18mm (1/8 inch) ahead, behind, above, or below the corresponding point on the opposite side member. The frame side member should not be bowed more than 3.18mm (1/8 inch) for each 2540mm (100 inches) of frame length. The overall width of frame should not vary more than 3.18mm (1/8 inch). The frame and side member web and flanges should be square to each other and within 3.18mm (1/8 inch).

Thank you, that’s some good info, I really appreciate it. Swiss family Robinson

 

[Josh B]

It is if you know how to use a plumb bob, You might even rig a magnetic one into the equation

Man, my batteries are wore out, my camera's wore out, I'll try and get some batteries today somehow

 

[Josh B]

I think you'll find that camber info very helpful though, if I can get it transferred

 

[rcknrog]

Thank you sir! Just bugs the hell out of me this damn pulling:-(

 

[Josh B]

I've been wanting to address mine for years, knowing I need to completely rebuild the front end first,including front differential and drive train, before changing that one little bushing

Actually the differential gear case shouldn't be worn, it's hardly been used, but the front axles, bearings and u-joints need to be done, along with tie rods and ball joints

 

[4x4junkie]

If everything on it looks good (bushings, frame straightness, etc.), the wheels are straight, and swapping the tires side-side made no significant difference, then most likely your issue is insufficient caster angle on the passenger side (it's also possible you have too much caster angle on the driver side).

If you don't have the skill to sort it out on your own, then I would suggest try taking it to a 4x4 shop, off road race shop, or some place that regularly works hands-on with modified suspensions (who would be more likely to recognize if there's an issue, and where it is). The turnover rate at chain shops is usually much too high for anyone to learn beyond what their training materials might've told them (and for decades now it's also been apparent that these training materials have little (if anything at all) about Ford's Twin-Beam suspensions, so most of them are just guessing at it).

 

[projectRanger93]

If everything on it looks good (bushings, frame straightness, etc.), the wheels are straight, and swapping the tires side-side made no significant difference, then most likely your issue is insufficient caster angle on the passenger side (it's also possible you have too much caster angle on the driver side).

If you don't have the skill to sort it out on your own, then I would suggest try taking it to a 4x4 shop, off road race shop, or some place that regularly works hands-on with modified suspensions (who would be more likely to recognize if there's an issue, and where it is). The turnover rate at chain shops is usually much too high for anyone to learn beyond what their training materials might've told them (and for decades now it's also been apparent that these training materials have little (if anything at all) about Ford's Twin-Beam suspensions, so most of them are just guessing at it).

Would you know of a good place in the SFV? I'm from there, and my alignment would probably need to be redone when i get new bushings. The high tech machine at the shop by my current place made it work for a couple drives before it went back to drifting to the right. My current bushings are pretty old.

 

[rcknrog]

If everything on it looks good (bushings, frame straightness, etc.), the wheels are straight, and swapping the tires side-side made no significant difference, then most likely your issue is insufficient caster angle on the passenger side (it's also possible you have too much caster angle on the driver side).

If you don't have the skill to sort it out on your own, then I would suggest try taking it to a 4x4 shop, off road race shop, or some place that regularly works hands-on with modified suspensions (who would be more likely to recognize if there's an issue, and where it is). The turnover rate at chain shops is usually much too high for anyone to learn beyond what their training materials might've told them (and for decades now it's also been apparent that these training materials have little (if anything at all) about Ford's Twin-Beam suspensions, so most of them are just guessing at it).

Yikes, thanks for all the info! My truck is stock as a rock, just pulls like crazy. Brand new tires recently and still pulls. So either insufficient caster or too much caster. Got it! Thanks again. Roger

 

[bobbywalter]

That's what I was referring to with 1 degree on one side and 5 the other.....though I usually do run 5 passenger and 7 drivers as a personal preference...

In your case stock as a rock... The passenger side radius arm bracket and bushing gets its ass kicked by the catylitic converter and blows that shit out which alters caster. Very critical inspection of that.

 

[Josh B]

I'm sorry Rog, guess I'm currently camera-less, got some batteries last night and now it comes on but the display isn't, I tried switching to viewfinder and it's not either. It's been on the brink awhile and I recently bought a new one but took it back after seeing the photos on PC were blurry and it was a 20 MP, I was going to get another one but looked at the reviews first and looked like it was heading in the same direction. I'll still try to get you that info but it might be a bit longer