99-01 Coil spring V8 swap

[TheCitrusMaster]

Hello
I have a 2000 Mazda b3000 extended cab 2wd coil spring suspension.
If I did this swap, my donor would be a 5.0 explorer/Mountaineer 2wd 99-01. I would get the whole vehicle.

My truck has the 3.0 and runs good, but WOW is it SLOW. I would probably wait until something breaks to do this swap. I have read just about every forum I could find about how to do this swap.

Questions:
1: What oil pan should I use? Dual sump? What clearance issues will I be looking at?
2: I am keeping the stock headers. I KNOW they are trash, but I don't feel like spending almost a grand on TM headers and I have read that is the only other way to go. What clearance issues will I get with these headers?
3: Other than the tachometer, what else do I have to rewire? Where do I get the wiring diagrams for my ranger and the explorer?
4: Any idea about what driveshaft I can use? I know I probably won't get a definite answer but any help is appreciated.
5: Do I have to dent the firewall?
6: I have read that I can use the 3.0 motor mounts and RickzRangerz plates from eBay does anyone have experience with this?
7: Is it possible to use the exaust from the explorer? Do I have to just build my own exaust? Is there a happy medium where I can do a little modification to get the explorer exaust to fit?
8: Speed sensor? I know nothing about this part.
9: I would like to use the mechanical fan if possible, how would I do this? is there enough clearance?
10: How do I put in the AC?

I have more questions but this is all I can think of at the moment
If anyone has done a 2wd coil spring swap and wants to add more helpful information feel free! I would like to learn all I can before I attempt this, so any help is appreciated!

 

[win]

L good questions

Oil pan. Classic dual sump will want to sit on rack and pinion,its front is too deep. OEM Explorer sump works well, but engine has to be dropped straight down into engine bay without transmission then the transmission goes in from underneath.

No great header options. The later expo cast manifolds are good option. There are TM knock off headers often on flea-bay. Common for the TM style to have minor clearance issues with right hand engine mounting plate

Wiring can be tough. PATS, A/C and starter are biggest hurdles. Ford uses common wire color codes and most on the pins on the 42 pin connector are the same, you'll only need to suss out the differences. Again, the Ford elec and vacuum diagrams (EVTM) are avail on flea-bay

Mine is an extended cab Ranger, ended up going with custom 2 piece driveshaft, std cab may re-use Expo shaft

You might want to fold the edge if the firewall back where the trans tunnel and firewall join, that sharp edge can cut up the transmission wiring harness

Gotta drop left front coil to remove the spacer under left engine mount then drill frame for engine mount alignment pin

I used the Expo front and rear cats, needing only to add a bit of clearance on bell housing and rear cross member. Used the front flange and pipes from Expo muffler to make a Y pipe to transition to custom exhaust

Speed signal is a snag for sure. You can wire in the ABS module and g-force sensor from Expo, add a VSS to tail of transmission, or Dakota Digital makes an ABS to speed signal adapter. Earlier V8 Expo's have VSS on transmission, both tail cone and output shaft may need to be swapped out to add a VSS to a later 4R70W

The OEM Expo FEAD and fan fit well. I did find modding my 3.0 fan shroud mounting taps gave a better fit than using the 5.0 shroud on mine.

Expo main a/c hose assembly works with Ranger condenser and accumulator. Swapping in an Expo evaporator and condenser to orifice tube hose will add a bit of clearance for TM style headers.

Another snag is high pressure power steering hose. I used an 3/8" hydraulic hose compression union to joint rack end of Ranger hose to rest of Expo hose.

 

[TheCitrusMaster]

Wow quick response nice!

I was planning on putting the engine and transmission in separate, so OEM pan seems like the way to go for me then. Thanks!

I guess ill probably go with the explorer manifolds. Any experience with clearance (frame, steering, motor mounts, etc.) using these headers?

For PATS, can I just use the explorer computer, swap over the lock cylinder and key, and PATS module behind the airbag and be good to go? Is it that simple, or is there more work to do? I know the 2000 ranger has the same type B PATS as a 99-01 explorer, so I should not have issues on that front. --Also, I have a little experience with all the starter wiring so I am not too worried about that. AC I can worry about once it is up and running, as long as everything else for the AC is bolted into place.

That is what I was afraid of. I will search some junkyards for a driveshaft I can use, but I have a feeling ill have to have a custom one made as well. How much did that cost?

I know exactly what you mean, and I will definitely bend the edge to get more room for the transmission. Did you have issues with the back of the valve covers hitting the firewall? I have seen in some rangers where they had to dent the firewall to get the engine far enough back for everything to clear, and I was wondering whether or not that was necessary. Considering you didn't mention it I can probably assume it isn't.

Removing the coil sounds like a pain, but if it has to be done then I guess ill have to do it. I am sure I can find videos about how to do that so I wont ask about it. What do you mean by spacers? Did you just swap over to 4.0 motor mounts?

Is there any chance you have a picture of your exhaust and how you worked it around and the clearance with the bell housing and rear cross member? If not, then I am sure I will be able to figure it all out when the time comes.

How would I go about wiring in the ABS module and G force sensor from the explorer? What is the G force sensor? If I have no speed signal, will my speedometer just not work or does it cause other issues as well?

I will give the 3.0 fan shroud a try, thanks!

I will probably swap in the Explorer evaporator and condenser, just because I may decide to switch to TM headers in the future. Thanks!

I have heard a early 90s F150 hose might work so I may try that out, but if that doesn't work then I will probably copy exactly what you did with your high pressure PS hose, thanks for the tip!

Thanks a lot for all of these good answers, I really appreciate it!

 

[Ramcharger90]

Something too keep in mind the bell bolts are near impossible to get to in the exploder I had to unbolt the the crossmember trans/motor mounts and lift the engine/trans up and pull out about 4-6 inches when you are putting it in you might have too do the same in reverse get an engine hoist with one of those weight distribution things so you can tilt it slightly. With that being said I haven't got to the putting it in a ranger yet since im doing a 90 first then im gonna do around the same year as you if you have the entire exploder take all of the wiring even the dash harness/cluster modules, radio and hold onto it extra rainbow spaghetti is a great thing to have plus you can use some of the exploder features that didnt come with the ranger/mazdas you're imagination, budget and state emissions are the limit. The little radiator for the power steering is important from what ive read its on the top of the rack and pinion. You're local john deer, mtd, etc. Dealership should be able too make high pressure hoses for you. Atleast when I worked for john deer we made hp line and had alot of fittings.

 

[TheCitrusMaster]

Ouch, I didn't think about actually being able to access the bolts. You are right, thinking about it now, those will probably be pretty hard to get to. That being said from what Win has said dropping in the engine from the top is the best way to go, so I may end up doing what you did. If you can, take some pictures of when you drop the engine in your ranger so I can get an idea of what I am up against.

Chances are I won't get rid of the explorer until my swap is running, so I would have all wiring and parts available. It is just going to sit in my backyard.

I have the power steering radiator in my truck, and since the power steering system isn't going to be running any hotter (I would think) I will probably re-use that. I don't think those are high pressure hoses, so I shouldn't have too much of a problem with hooking it up again.

You just reminded me I know a guy who works at the dealership, I bet he could do the PS hose for me. If not, compression unions are easy enough to install. Thanks for the tip!

I may see about upgrading to the power windows, since I have the regular crank windows. I don't care much for power seats. I may also take the entire steering column so I can have tilt steering.

Funny story, when I bought my truck I didn't even think about tilt steering because it was already in the perfect height for me. I gave it to my (significantly shorter) sister to drive it for a while when her car broke down, and she complained that she couldn't figure out how to adjust the steering wheel! I called her and told her there should be a lever, and she said there was none! I drove over there and looked, and realized that the steering wheel wasn't adjustable!
Who the heck designs a steering wheel in a truck that cannot be adjusted? Lmao

 

[don4331]

CitrusMaster:

Speed sensor shouldn't be an issue for you, as your '00 should still be using the rear axle. (Older or newer are issues, but you are in sweet spot). I know my power steering hoses are OEM Ford; can't recall if they are Expo, Ranger or F-150...

For my '98, the stock driveshaft installed into the 4R70W with only modification being the swap of yoke. Note: Mine was Regular cab/short box and I used automatic from 3.8 Mustang (2wd/5.0 Expos being hard to find in Canada), but positioning the output should be same.

I swapped over to 4.0 engine mounts which does require coil spring removal to get to the engine mount bolts (Well, I found that to be the expedient way, and I used it as excuse to replace the ball joints). I also unbolted the cab and lifted it 3" while excuting the swap to gain me working room; makes a world of clearance difference.

My exhaust was 100% Explorer as wheelbases of RCSB and Expo are identical - you should be able to get away with just adding a 14" extension.

Installing a tilt steering wheel is relatively easy mod - only real gotchas are swapping the key cylinders (not an issue if you have keys for both), and remembering to undo the wire for the shifter display. The rest is just a few bolts and wiring connectors. Note: My tilt column is from Ranger, as the Expo I got was loaded and had too many extra features to make easy connection (with 20/20 hindsight, when I had the dash out for power windows, I should have added the Expo center console features).

Factory power windows are substantially larger task. My el cheapo Ranger's didn't have power windows programmed in GEM/wiring, so I needed a better GEM, and a bunch of wires in dash. Then one needs to replace the regulators and door panels with power ones instead of the manual crank ones. Factoring in the removal/replacement of the dash; it was probably most work for least gain modification I have done. (And this is coming from guy who has Supercab Long box)

I haven't messed much with ABS as my 2wd Ranger didn't have it, and I didn't feel like adding it.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

I had a custom power steering pressure hose made at my local Napa to mate my 92 Thunderbird power steering pump to my 89 Bronco II steering gearbox.

 

[Ramcharger90]

http://imgur.com/Un4i3fD

http://imgur.com/tDmdGJU

http://imgur.com/dbt75kT

 

[TheCitrusMaster]

Don:

Thanks! I probably will do the tilt steering wheel. You make the power windows sound like a pain and more trouble than they are worth, so I will avoid those. It would be nice, but keeping the old-school crank isnt all that bad really.

I would really like to use the stock explorer exhaust if at all possible, so I will try doing that extension and see if it works out.

As far as the speed sensor, if what you say is correct that is great, I wont have to deal with that issue. I will take a look at my axle later and see if I can find that speed sensor. You say it is located on the axle for the explorer right?

I will probably end up swapping to the 4.0 mounts. It seems like that is what everyone else has done, and it seems to work. Looking at you tube videos, taking out the springs doesn't look all that horrible.

About this body lift, how much does this help? I have thought about putting a 2 inch lift on before, and they really arent expensive, I could justify it if it helped my swap go smoothly.

Ramcharger90:

Pictures are worth a thousand words and wow, that looks like a pain aligning all of that. How hard was it? I wonder if putting on that lift could help me avoid that? Also, nice progress! Keep us updated as things go on!

 

[don4331]

TheCitrusMaster:

I didn't install a kit. I just jacked cab up, put in a couple 4x4s to give clearance during the installation, then lowered it back to OEM location once engine/transmission were installed.

Recognize, in factory, Ford installed the engine/transmission to the frame, then lowered the cab on. So, I was attempting a DYI equivalent. 3.5" of space made a world of difference in seeing what needed adjusting to line the transmission up with the engine.

Unlike Ramcharger90, I unbolted the 4R70W/torque converter from the 5.0 1st and lower it ground, so I didn't make that pool of oil. (I was dumb @$$ and removed the transfer case to make things lighter and was washed with a couple gallons of ATF.)

Like Ramcharger90, I cut the header panel out of the Explorer to ease pulling the engine. I did remove the fan 1st though as it will need to be off for installation back into Ranger engine bay (I didn't cut header panel in Ranger).

Speed sensor is located at top of differential pumpkin. Same clip for both Ranger and Explorer - which allows the install of the Expo 8.8 into Ranger (31 spline axles, disc brakes, in my case limited slip & 4.10s).

 

[TheCitrusMaster]

Hmm, that is a really good idea. So what all do you need to remove in order to lift the cab? Is it just the body mounts, or do you need to mess with the steering, brake lines, and other stuff?

If it is just as simple as removing the body mounts then I will definitely give that a try. 3 or 4 inches would definitely give me a lot more room to work.

I have been washed with ATF a few times doing transmission fluid changes, it sucks lol. I have also been washed with gear oil from a manual transmission and that stuff STINKS.

I took a quick look under my truck and yes, I do have the speed sensor on top of the axle, so I am OK on that front.

I know that there is definitely some modification required to put the explorer axle in the ranger. The shock mounting points are different, and new mounts need to be welded on. I dont know how to weld, but it may be time to learn. What all did you do to modify your explorer axle to fit in the ranger?

 

[Ranger850]

Now is not the time to learn how to weld. I would probably find someone you can trust to weld those shock mounts. I would hate for one of those to pop off from a shitty weld. Just sayin'

 

[TheCitrusMaster]

Yes you have a good point.

I dont know anyone that can weld, but I am sure I can find someone, I'll keep an eye out.

 

[Ramcharger90]

TheCitrusMaster:

I didn't install a kit. I just jacked cab up, put in a couple 4x4s to give clearance during the installation, then lowered it back to OEM location once engine/transmission were installed.

Recognize, in factory, Ford installed the engine/transmission to the frame, then lowered the cab on. So, I was attempting a DYI equivalent. 3.5" of space made a world of difference in seeing what needed adjusting to line the transmission up with the engine.

Unlike Ramcharger90, I unbolted the 4R70W/torque converter from the 5.0 1st and lower it ground, so I didn't make that pool of oil. (I was dumb @$$ and removed the transfer case to make things lighter and was washed with a couple gallons of ATF.)

Like Ramcharger90, I cut the header panel out of the Explorer to ease pulling the engine. I did remove the fan 1st though as it will need to be off for installation back into Ranger engine bay (I didn't cut header panel in Ranger).

Speed sensor is located at top of differential pumpkin. Same clip for both Ranger and Explorer - which allows the install of the Expo 8.8 into Ranger (31 spline axles, disc brakes, in my case limited slip & 4.10s).

I have the tool to remove the fan but I guess the 4.0 and 5.0 have slightly different hole locations so my wrench left over from when I did the radiator and water pump on 96 eddie bauer exploder didn't work so what ever it all came out in one peice and since im putting a cam, gaskets etc in ill remove it later. And once the engine and trans were pulled front far enough I just unbolted it im not saving any auto junk, besides you cant break a broken transmission. Especially when its melt down into an ingot quality.

 

[Ramcharger90]

Now is not the time to learn how to weld. I would probably find someone you can trust to weld those shock mounts. I would hate for one of those to pop off from a shitty weld. Just sayin'

I never moved the shock mounts or the spring perches on my 8.8 from a 97 exploder. I got 2 passenger side plates for the ubolts. heat the ends and tweaked them a little bit only one bolt required a little persuasion. I also used 4* pinion shims and 2 inch lift shackles. but it would ride better if my leafs were not worn out that bad they had the spring assist shocks before from when the last guy owned it. I will replace them eventually. And if need be I'll relocate the mount when and if something breaks.

http://imgur.com/hAnzMv3

I just copied this guy as close as I could but the front was only a 2" drop for me I figure it will level out more when the 5.0 goes in.