ERA_Evil
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2016
- Messages
- 19
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
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- Location
- Monterrey, Mexico
- Vehicle Year
- 2006
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 2.3l Duratec
- Transmission
- Manual
I have a 2006 Ford Ranger Crew Cab 2.3l Duratec
The truck has developed a rattle/hum and its driving me nuts, both hearing it and trying to trace it down.
Motor was rebuilt August 2018, it was eating up around 5l of oil a month, I thought it would've been a major problem but once the motor was opened it ended up just being the valve seals, but I figured since the engine was opened might as well replace everything. Pistons did not need to jump a size, but new rings were put in, new time chain and sprockets and chains (full kit), new oil pump, new gaskets, new clutch and slave cylinder and all. Everything was perfect up until around 1500 to 2000km ago (rebuild was as around 200,000km, now has 209,000km). It started to slowly develop a sort of hum/resonance.
It is mostly heard within the cabin upon start-up and above 2000 rpm's and above. Will not sound when downshifting and/or motor-braking, does it exclusively under load or sudden-fast blip of the throttle.
I once was curious enough to start it up, I slowly revved up until 5k really slowly (think taking around 15 to 20 second to get from idle to 5000 rpms) and the noise was not to be heard, however if you blip the throttle to 5000 it will be heard (all off this is while in neutral, no movement).
I would say the noise reminded me of when I put an intake on my Acura Integra, when flooring it and approaching high revs, it comes a point where there is a resonance coming from the filter/motor sucking up air, that is more or less what it sounds like (at least that's the only thing I can relate the sound to).
I put new oil and filter(always use Bosch), new sparkplugs (Autolite 103 gapped at 0.050), new spark plug wires, new transmission mount, I will be changing the exhaust soon as it is somewhat rotted and has some holes to see if this helps/eliminates the noise.
Another thing it does is that when hot, at times and only when the rattle/humming noise it present, the oil light will flicker on and off under load after 2000rpm's. Once the throttle is released the light will go off. For this I changed the oil, Valvoline 15W40 up from stock thinking it would help out. I also took off the oil fill cap to put my hand, and the engine is spitting up oil, which seems it is irrigating correctly up to the camshafts. Does not consume any oil.
After rebuild had an oil change at 500miles, then 1000miles then 1500miles and then 2000miles. then I did it at 6000miles. (sorry for the switching of units, truck is Mexican and has the mileage in KM). After these 6000 miles it started the noise, to which I changed the oil, the old oil had around 700miles, to the new Valvoline.
You are able to hear the noise predominantly on passenger side, and if you touch the floor you are able to somewhat feel the vibrations(perhaps exhaust, I did check the cat heat guard, it is not rusted nor does it seem to be the source of noise as it feels sturdy). I am able to clearly feel them through the pedals and shift stick but almost none on the steering wheel, I can somewhat feel it on the driver side floor.
I also changed the inner and outer tie-rods as well as the upper arm-ball joint and 3 u-joints chasing down this noise, as well new diff oil and trans oil, in case it may be relevant. Truck has Torsion Bar suspension, no mods on motor but an oil-catch can.
Truck is daily driven, has 31/10.5/R15 wheels and an 8.8 rear-end with 4.10 gearing, the trans is not the M5OD but an Eaton-Fuller FSO 2405 5-speed transmission.
Any help is appreciated as this is driving me nuts trying to chase this down.
Edit: I have searched this forum and other for over a week trying out all the little details I can find that can be the source of the noise. I also wanted to mention the around three times it threw a P0300, P0301 and P0302 codes, this was the reason why I switched out the plugs, I had some Bosch (they didn't have Autolite' s at the time) when I took they out they did not seem fouled, but the white, gloss ceramic on the outside was sort of burned/brownish near the base where they go into the metal. Switched to Autolite 103 and new cables, have yet to try a new coil (is there any way to test the one I have? It is 4 plug single coil not an 8 plug).
The last time I erased the codes and they have not come back, I did notice it struggles a bit when really cold, since the 103 is a heat range down so it may simply be due to this, but I am unsure.
The truck has developed a rattle/hum and its driving me nuts, both hearing it and trying to trace it down.
Motor was rebuilt August 2018, it was eating up around 5l of oil a month, I thought it would've been a major problem but once the motor was opened it ended up just being the valve seals, but I figured since the engine was opened might as well replace everything. Pistons did not need to jump a size, but new rings were put in, new time chain and sprockets and chains (full kit), new oil pump, new gaskets, new clutch and slave cylinder and all. Everything was perfect up until around 1500 to 2000km ago (rebuild was as around 200,000km, now has 209,000km). It started to slowly develop a sort of hum/resonance.
It is mostly heard within the cabin upon start-up and above 2000 rpm's and above. Will not sound when downshifting and/or motor-braking, does it exclusively under load or sudden-fast blip of the throttle.
I once was curious enough to start it up, I slowly revved up until 5k really slowly (think taking around 15 to 20 second to get from idle to 5000 rpms) and the noise was not to be heard, however if you blip the throttle to 5000 it will be heard (all off this is while in neutral, no movement).
I would say the noise reminded me of when I put an intake on my Acura Integra, when flooring it and approaching high revs, it comes a point where there is a resonance coming from the filter/motor sucking up air, that is more or less what it sounds like (at least that's the only thing I can relate the sound to).
I put new oil and filter(always use Bosch), new sparkplugs (Autolite 103 gapped at 0.050), new spark plug wires, new transmission mount, I will be changing the exhaust soon as it is somewhat rotted and has some holes to see if this helps/eliminates the noise.
Another thing it does is that when hot, at times and only when the rattle/humming noise it present, the oil light will flicker on and off under load after 2000rpm's. Once the throttle is released the light will go off. For this I changed the oil, Valvoline 15W40 up from stock thinking it would help out. I also took off the oil fill cap to put my hand, and the engine is spitting up oil, which seems it is irrigating correctly up to the camshafts. Does not consume any oil.
After rebuild had an oil change at 500miles, then 1000miles then 1500miles and then 2000miles. then I did it at 6000miles. (sorry for the switching of units, truck is Mexican and has the mileage in KM). After these 6000 miles it started the noise, to which I changed the oil, the old oil had around 700miles, to the new Valvoline.
You are able to hear the noise predominantly on passenger side, and if you touch the floor you are able to somewhat feel the vibrations(perhaps exhaust, I did check the cat heat guard, it is not rusted nor does it seem to be the source of noise as it feels sturdy). I am able to clearly feel them through the pedals and shift stick but almost none on the steering wheel, I can somewhat feel it on the driver side floor.
I also changed the inner and outer tie-rods as well as the upper arm-ball joint and 3 u-joints chasing down this noise, as well new diff oil and trans oil, in case it may be relevant. Truck has Torsion Bar suspension, no mods on motor but an oil-catch can.
Truck is daily driven, has 31/10.5/R15 wheels and an 8.8 rear-end with 4.10 gearing, the trans is not the M5OD but an Eaton-Fuller FSO 2405 5-speed transmission.
Any help is appreciated as this is driving me nuts trying to chase this down.
Edit: I have searched this forum and other for over a week trying out all the little details I can find that can be the source of the noise. I also wanted to mention the around three times it threw a P0300, P0301 and P0302 codes, this was the reason why I switched out the plugs, I had some Bosch (they didn't have Autolite' s at the time) when I took they out they did not seem fouled, but the white, gloss ceramic on the outside was sort of burned/brownish near the base where they go into the metal. Switched to Autolite 103 and new cables, have yet to try a new coil (is there any way to test the one I have? It is 4 plug single coil not an 8 plug).
The last time I erased the codes and they have not come back, I did notice it struggles a bit when really cold, since the 103 is a heat range down so it may simply be due to this, but I am unsure.
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