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Alignment question


Loanranger

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Ok, so it's a newb question, but I figured I'd get some insight here before I get started. This is on my Dads 88 reg cab longbed, D28 front axle. We added 1 inch of spacers under the springs. The original camber/caster bushings are 1.0 degree on both sides. From using an angle finder, it looks as though the drivers side is positive now by 1.0 degree, and the passenger is positive by 1.25-1.5 degrees (hard to tell with the angle finder, but it's right in that area, just off of 1 degree, so probably more like 1.25 degree.) The passenger side bushing also has some caster built into it, meaning the hole is offset not only in (for camber) but back for caster. The drivers side is only in, not back. Now the bushings that are in it are the stock bushings, with only a notch on either side for the beam tabs. From looking at the passenger side bushing, it appears (by eyeballing it) that the caster angle is the same as the camber angle. So basically the bushing is for 1.0 degree camber AND 1.0 degree caster, while the drivers side is 1.0 degree camber, and 0 degree caster. The truck drives straight down the road, and is only driven to the trail, and on trails, nothing else. So basically, I'm looking to leave the caster where it's at, and work on the camber only at this time. So the drivers side is easy, just throw a 2.25 degree bushing in, and it should be at 0 degree (neither positive or negative) While the passenger side has got me thinking. If I'm trying to correct for 1.0 degree of positive camber, and keep the 1.0 degree that is already in the caster, then I would need a 3 degree bushing correct? Or is it not going to be that easy?

Btw, I am not saying that there is a 1.0 degree cross caster difference, only that the passenger side needs the 1.0 degree backwards (at the top) angle to make the two sides even, or in spec.

For my next question, my buddy Nate let me bring home a box of various used bushings, and after looking through them all, I thought I had found a couple that would work, but after pulling the passenger side bushing, I found that the ones I thought would work were not quite right. They seem to have a little slop when in the beam, and also some slop around the balljoint. Two of them are Ingalls 432, which I thought were the ones that I bought for my ranger, also a D28, but they have slop. So are these the right bushings, and they just need to be torqued down to get rid of the slop, or are they for maybe a D35 or other?

Sorry for the long winded questions, and thanks to anyone that can help.
 


Loanranger

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Where's 4x4junkie when you need him? :dntknw:
 

Sunk

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Last edited:

Loanranger

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Thanks Sunk, I had found those earlier, but they only show a 2 degree as the max, and I could go to the parts store to get the right ones, I just want to make sure that the ones I'm getting are going to work. I would really like to not spend any money on this venture, as it would be the first money spent on the whole truck, besides buying the truck. I tried the ingalls 432 bushing that I have, and when the nut is tightened down it doesn't have any slop in it, but is still doesn't look right, for one, the hole in the balljoint for the cotter pin is about 1/4 inch above the top of the nut. I took a look at the ones in my ranger, and it looks as if those are bigger on top than the 432s. The ones I have in my ranger are the Skyjacker 1035H, which is actually an Ingalls bushing, but I don't want to pull mine out to see what the side says. Back to searching again....

Does the part about needing a 3 degree bushing for the passenger side sound right to you? Or do you think it would need to be a little bigger to get both the 1.0 degree in and the 1.0 degree back. My thinking is that if I have a 1.0 degree in it right now, it will take a 2.0 degree to make up for the 1.0 degree that it is positive after the lift, plus another 1.0 degree for the caster, because it was already leaned back a degree to start with, but if I use a 3 degree, and twist it towards the back to get that 1.0 degree for the caster, will it take away from the 2.0 degrees for the camber? Am I just overthinking this whole process?
 

Loanranger

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Sunk

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Oh I just meant that I Googled 'Ingalls 432 bushing' and came up with that. It appeared to me that 432 was a series of a number of bushings.... I'll admit it was kind of a half-assed attempt.

I have a set of the SJ 1035H bushings sitting right here next to me... I ordered the wrong ones for my build. I don't see any markings on them except for the letters around the top.
 

Loanranger

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Well, I remember mine saying Ingalls on the side of them, and it seems like they were 432. The ones that I tried say "Ingalls 432 '80 up ford Large" on the side of them, I'm wondering if the 432 is the series for rangers, but it also seems like I heard that a d28 and a d35 bushing were different, but I could be wrong. I'll have to do some more research I guess.

Something funny I found while looking for the 1035H, check out the picture they show for the bushing..:haha:

http://www.streetperformance.com/part/skyjacker-suspension/bushings/480211-1035h.html
 

Sunk

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Well those will adjust camber.... lol.

According to the Skyjacker instructions, the 1035H is for 83-89 Ranger and 83-90 Bronco II. 1032H fits 80-96 F-150/250 and 80-85 F-350

The D28/D35 bushings are different as are the D44 bushings.
 

Loanranger

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Ok, I just remembered that I had a printout from when Nate aligned my Ranger, so I figured I'd share specs with everyone.
These are specs as per the Hunter alignment computer for Ranger, 89-92, 4x4, with axle tag #E87A (Dana 28), except STX

Camber
Specified -0.3 degree
Range 1.3 degree

Caster
Specified 2.5 degree
Range 4.5 degree

Toe
Specified -0.13
Range 0.13
 

Loanranger

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Well those will adjust camber.... lol.

According to the Skyjacker instructions, the 1035H is for 83-89 Ranger and 83-90 Bronco II. 1032H fits 80-96 F-150/250 and 80-85 F-350

The D28/D35 bushings are different as are the D44 bushings.
So maybe that's what all the bushings I brought home are for is a D35 :annoyed:
 

Loanranger

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Ingalls 594 2 piece, is this for a dana 35 only? Or will it work on a Dana 28?
 

Loanranger

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4x4junkie

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Hmmm... Somehow I must've missed this post :icon_confused:


Ingalls 594 is D35-only (well, also fits 2WD F-150/250/350), the D28 adjustable is Ingalls 535

If the right side 1° bushing is positioned like you say (in & toward the rear), it is giving you a correction of +.75° caster, -.75° camber.

So if I'm following you, you want to correct the camber from where it is now -1° on the driverside, and -1.25° on the pass side, while leaving the same caster setting on both sides.

IIRC, the D28 bushings can only go in in 8 positions, so if I'm looking at it right (I'm normally used to 2-pc bushings), you can use a 3° one in the same position as the one you have now, fully correcting the camber, but also adding on another 1.25° caster, or you can use a 2° bushing, and position it for all camber, 0 caster (I'd use the 2°).
To get it more precise than that, you'll have to swap to the 2-piece adjustable bushings, and follow the numbers on the chart that goes with it to find where you need to put it (the 2-piece bushings are really the only way to get anywhere close on these things, especially with the D28 and D44 TTBs where the bushings only go in on a fixed # of positions).

.
 

Loanranger

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:icon_cheers:
Once again, you've saved the day 4x4 junkie. :pray: I had a feeling that the 594 was for a d35. When I put it in, it fell right in the beam, and the cotter pin was about a 1/4 inch above the castle nut. I ended up putting it back together and just set the toe, so we could take it out today. Now that you've confirmed what I had thought, I will go get the 535s and get it set up.
 

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Good luck on it :icon_thumby:
 

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