TDI Ranger Build

[adsm08]

I like the electronics, but I'm not looking to make 1000 lb fts of torque either. Max for my intended use would be around 400 torque. I'm mainly after 40+ mpg for an all highway state to state parts getter. I even have ideas of mounting a transfercase backwards to give me an extra 0.5 to 1 ratio...

SVT

So low range becomes extra high.

You'd have to be careful with that. Even with 400 ft-lbs I doubt she'd be easy off the line and those cases aren't synchronized.

 

[jhammel85]

Awesome! Looking forward to this.

 

[greengeeker]

Out comes the motor

Nothing earth shattering here just the obligatory swap pictures of removing the old drivetrain. I was disappointed I couldn't remove the engine and tranny together. My load distribution bar only allowed so much of an angle so maybe it would work but I just found it easier to separate them and pull them out separately.

Time to remove the VW drivetrain: 30min (drivetrain removal is made easier when the radiator/header panel is sitting in the back seat when you start)

Time to remove Ranger drivetrain: 3 hours

I'm thinking I'll just use the stock clutch with the first power level. I don't know if it will slip or not but we'll find out.

 

[wr250rdr]

The 8.8 ls rear end from an exp would work well but would require a regear and rebuild. I'm pushing approximately 550 rwhp and 500 ftlbs of torque through the one I have in my falcon, (which btw was almost a direct bolt it). And it should bolt into your ranger with relative ease and give you disk brakes in the rear

 

[greengeeker]

2.73 is enticing

Here's what I have for RPM's at 70mph

225/70R15 & 3.73:1 - 2530
225/70R15 & 3.08:1 - 2089
225/70R15 & 2.73:1 - 1852

Hmm. That's tempting. What's even more appealing is the RPM I'd be turning in 4th at 65:

225/70R15 & 3.08:1 - 2456
225/70R15 & 2.73:1 - 2177

 

[RangerSVT]

Are you planning to lower this truck for better aerodynamics? If so, and you do something like a 3/4 drop, the 95-01 explorer 8.8 is already set up for spring under, and as mentioned, has factory disc brakes. But it also has factory 31 spline shafts, most have limited slip carriers, and most V8 explorer 8.8's have a traction/antiwrap bar stock. Grab that with the mustang's 273 gears and you will be set

SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

Also, what trans do you plan on using? I'm pretty sure you will need an adapter plate, what about using a ZF trans behind that? It's an HD trans with a 542 (or 572, I forget) first gear, 0.72 overdrive gear, and somewhere around 750 torque rating. They came behind SBF's in f250 and f350's, and will adapt easily to the ranger's hydro clutch system...

SVT

 

[snoranger]

Also, what trans do you plan on using? I'm pretty sure you will need an adapter plate, what about using a ZF trans behind that? It's an HD trans with a 542 (or 572, I forget) first gear, 0.72 overdrive gear, and somewhere around 750 torque rating. They came behind SBF's in f250 and f350's, and will adapt easily to the ranger's hydro clutch system...

SVT

The ZF came as a 542 or 547.

The 542 can handle 420 ft-lbs.
The 547 is rated for 470 ft-lbs.


0.76 is the common ratio for OD on the small block version of the ZF.

 

[RangerSVT]

Thanks for chiming in the exact figures, I was thinking 500 torque, don't know why I said 750 lol. I knew I was close

SVT

 

[greengeeker]

Are you planning to lower this truck for better aerodynamics? If so, and you do something like a 3/4 drop, the 95-01 explorer 8.8 is already set up for spring under, and as mentioned, has factory disc brakes. But it also has factory 31 spline shafts, most have limited slip carriers, and most V8 explorer 8.8's have a traction/antiwrap bar stock. Grab that with the mustang's 273 gears and you will be set

I had toyed with the idea of lowering it for aero reasons. I would prefer to do belly pans first but I think doing either of these mods leads me down a path that doesn't represent what a typical truck would get for mileage but rather a hypermiler. I really like the idea of getting all the goodies in the explorer axle...sounds a heck of a lot cheaper than the Detroit trutrac I was looking at getting.

Also, what trans do you plan on using? I'm pretty sure you will need an adapter plate, what about using a ZF trans behind that? It's an HD trans with a 542 (or 572, I forget) first gear, 0.72 overdrive gear, and somewhere around 750 torque rating. They came behind SBF's in f250 and f350's, and will adapt easily to the ranger's hydro clutch system...

I designed my own adapter to mate the tdi (and any other water cooled VW 4cyl) to the M5OD-R1. Correct me if I'm wrong but this should also mate the TDI to a T5 with a 2.3L bellhousing. I've done some reseach but have never found a solid answer on how much power/torque the M5OD-R1 can take. All I've found is don't be stupid with high power levels. There have been a number of TRS members that have run it behind a turbo 2.3L so I think it should take the punishment. I am curious where the max torque would be for such a motor though as my peak torque will be around 2000rpm and trail off from there as the RPM climbs to 5500rpm. Torque will not exceed ~400 ft lbs unless I beef up the bottom end.

 

[greengeeker]

The ZF came as a 542 or 547.

The 542 can handle 420 ft-lbs.
The 547 is rated for 470 ft-lbs.

These figures are at the wheel or flywheel?

 

[snoranger]

These figures are at the wheel or flywheel?

A trans is rated by input torque, so flywheel.

 

[RangerSVT]

Iirc, the M5OD's are rated at 300 torque...

SVT

 

[greengeeker]

Iirc, the M5OD's are rated at 300 torque...

Well I should be below that for my first two stages of performance.

 

[greengeeker]

Cooling System Part 1

I knew from the getgo I was going to need to figure out a solution for the cooling fan. I was never crazy about the viscous clutch expecially when I start my truck in the middle of the winter and I get full fan flow for the first few minutes of running. This will not do for the TDI since it takes quite a while for it to get up to temp without ANY fan flow. Not only that but the tdi nor any other transversely-mounted vw engine has a means of driving a fan off the front of the motor.

Now that I've eliminated the belt driven fan I'm left with several different options:
1) Ford Rad, Ford condensor, aftermarket fans, aftermarket fan controller, FMIC mounted in front of everything
2) Ford Rad, Ford condensor, Taurus electric fan(s), aftermarket fan controller, FMIC mounted in front of everything
3) Ford Rad, Ford condensor, VW fan panel, VW fan controller, FMIC mounted in front of everything
4) VW Rad, VW condensor, VW fan panel, VW fan controller, FMIC below everything (I'll explain later)

Well I went with option 4 because 1) it simplied my electronics (plug and play) 2) I've never heard of a properly funtioning VW system not being able to cool even the most taxed TDI's 3) It simplied my radiator piping (driver's side inlet/outlet on the radiator match the inlet/outlet of the TDI) 4) It simplified my CAC piping (passenger side inlet/outlet on the intercooler match the inlet/outlet of the TDI) 5) Because of 1-4 I'm pretty sure it's the cheapest option as well.

So here is a New Beetle TDI cooling pack (condensor, radiator, fan panel with two fans):

I've wrapped it in cardboard to protect it during the many intalls and removals but also to provide spacing while making my mounts. In the picture below you can see the VW mounts that would normally slide into a molded slot in the header panel:

My plan is to reverse the direction of these isolators and fabricate some brackets that will bolt to the Ranger header panel. Before I can do that I need to do some trimming of the Ranger rad mounts, some brackets and other minor adjustments with a cutoff wheel to provide the space for the wider VW cooling pack. I also needed to remove a wiring chase that ran right above the radiator and will zip tie it in some convoluted sheathing a few inches higher.

Here is the driver's side showing where I needed to clearance for the condenser line:

I should also mention that the only vw cooling pack that will fit in this location (under header panel and above the frame rail) is the New Beetle cooling pack! It doesn't matter what engine or transmission - the radiator and condensor for all New Beetles are all 650mm x 380mm. The difference will be in the cooling fans/motors which you can simply swap out with TDI ones. I made the mistake of purchasing an AWP (1.8T) automatic Jeta cooling pack without doing the research and found it was much too big to fit => 650mm x 420mm. So if you're doing this swap get yourself a New Beetle cooling pack as any Jetta or Golf radiator, regardless of motor, is going to be too tall.

Here is the NB cooling pack sitting in the Ranger with the flipped isolators and brackets:

And where the mounting bolts are accessed on the front side of the header panel (just look for the 4 shiny spots...ok ok I was a little generous when I said it was rust free )