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Project: Amazing Grace


Gary101386

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I love the cab lights on the ranger... is that something you installed? if so how much of a PITA was it?
 


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I love the cab lights on the ranger... is that something you installed? if so how much of a PITA was it?
That was something I did. Bought the kit from LMCtruck, think I paid about $50. It wasn't bad to put it. I measured my dad's F-250 and my truck for cab width, measured the width between the lights on his truck, and scaled it all down to fit mine properly. Then I ran the wires like the instructions said, threw out the toggle switch they put in the kit, and used a wire tap to connect them to my parking lights.




Anyway. Drove the B2 for what will probably be the last time this year. :bawling: Took her 300 feet.

Blew the slave out last week, just got the garage cleaned out enough to pull her in. Probably won't get to even starting to pull the trans until next Saturday. If I'm lucky I'll have the trans out in 1 day without breaking anything. Problem is I don't have the money for a clutch kit right now, don't trust a flywheel that old, and would just as soon replace the starter while it's already out.


I'll let you guys figure out what all that means. :icon_twisted::icon_welder::icon_twisted:
 

CHKNFKR

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That was something I did. Bought the kit from LMCtruck, think I paid about $50. It wasn't bad to put it. I measured my dad's F-250 and my truck for cab width, measured the width between the lights on his truck, and scaled it all down to fit mine properly. Then I ran the wires like the instructions said, threw out the toggle switch they put in the kit, and used a wire tap to connect them to my parking lights.




Anyway. Drove the B2 for what will probably be the last time this year. :bawling: Took her 300 feet.

Blew the slave out last week, just got the garage cleaned out enough to pull her in. Probably won't get to even starting to pull the trans until next Saturday. If I'm lucky I'll have the trans out in 1 day without breaking anything. Problem is I don't have the money for a clutch kit right now, don't trust a flywheel that old, and would just as soon replace the starter while it's already out.


I'll let you guys figure out what all that means. :icon_twisted::icon_welder::icon_twisted:
 

wrecking-crew

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I think it is getting a 4.0 clutch and m5od.
 

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CHKNFKR

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I still think the b2 needs a full serving of vegitables
 

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Not in the cards.

I think it is getting a 4.0 clutch and m5od.
Close but not quite

I still think the b2 needs a full serving of vegitables
Only if I find the exact right donor. And have to get my left knee replaced.



No, I was thinking of going 4.0 clutch since I already have a 4.0 for it, but the engine needs rebuilt first. But then I got to thinking. The 2.9 and early 4.0s have a 6-bolt main. The engine I have is a SOHC, with an 8-bolt main. So that would mean I'd have to buy another fly wheel when I go to do the engine.

So for now it will just get a new clutch.



I'm not a huge fan of large displacement V-8 gas engines. I just don't see the point in small vehicles. I don't want a 351, period, and a 4.0 makes better power where it matters than the 5.0.

If I ever get to the point where I can't drive a stick anymore I'll consider swapping in an LS8 engine because I can use a 5R55S with it.
 

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Got the trans out today. Ran into a few new "issues" along the way.

I broke an exhaust bolt off in the manifold. I broke the front CV joint on the rear shaft. And I found a tear in the floor pan under the driver's seat.

I've heard of it happening before, just never seen it for myself. It happened to Heptofite's B2 a while back. Guess I'll have to break out the jumper cables and sacrifice a coat hanger since my grandpa traded his welder for a wood lathe.
 

jhammel85

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Got the trans out today. Ran into a few new "issues" along the way.

I broke an exhaust bolt off in the manifold. I broke the front CV joint on the rear shaft. And I found a tear in the floor pan under the driver's seat.

I've heard of it happening before, just never seen it for myself. It happened to Heptofite's B2 a while back. Guess I'll have to break out the jumper cables and sacrifice a coat hanger since my grandpa traded his welder for a wood lathe.
Man if I was closer to you, I'd be bringing up my MIG Welder...
 

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Got the trans out today. Ran into a few new "issues" along the way.

I broke an exhaust bolt off in the manifold. I broke the front CV joint on the rear shaft. And I found a tear in the floor pan under the driver's seat.

I've heard of it happening before, just never seen it for myself. It happened to Heptofite's B2 a while back. Guess I'll have to break out the jumper cables and sacrifice a coat hanger since my grandpa traded his welder for a wood lathe.
You can get the boot for the driveshaft. There is 2 more fronts left in Texas I think. (According to my friend) Or just upgrade it to a Napa u-joint replacemnt like what he did after tearing through a new discontinued $30 boot.
 

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i sure hope he doesn't use the cv driveshaft.... replace that puppy.. get some u-jonts on it!
 

adsm08

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Ok, long time no post here. Mostly because it's just been too danged cold to work on her with no heat in the garage. Getting home after dark and not having any electricity or light out there doesnt' help either.

Anyway, house-keeping matters. I bought the $30 boot replacement kit from rockauto. The CV drive shaft is staying for now. I have a 1st gen Explorer rear shaft that will get shortened and go in as the replacement when I have the money, but the Ranger's axle swap is taking priority right now because I want to get that done and the body work done before I lose her to the rust. So the B2 is getting the bare minimum to get back on the road for now.

But, new parts!!!!!







I bought the 4x4 shifter being told that the big bolt for the side of the trans was missing. Got it out and looked a bit closer...





Nope, she is very much there. The electric transfer case will not being going back in. The roof console will be staying since I like the map lights and the buttons will be adapted to work seat heaters.

I think I'm gonna put heaters all around in the B2. This will be a luxury vehicle before I'm done.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Just found this...

Had an idea the other day.

I don't like how the rear feels at highway speeds. But the 1st gen Explorer sport was basically the same vehicle. It was only a few inches longer, it weighed about the same, and I'm putting a 4.0 in this thing anyway. But the Sports didn't have the 10 MPH roll-over issues the B2 was demonized for. So what changed.

The only thing that really changed that should have an effect on this is the rear axle. They flipped it over on the Explorers, so now the springs are attached to the bottom of the tipping point of the roll, instead of perched on top of it. This got me to thinking that putting an Ex rear axle assembly, springs and all, in might help the rear end feel at speed without sacrificing ride height. I'm gonna try it.


She needs a tank pump and I think the clutch is going to go soon though. So, not cool.
The Ex's were set up very much different. The frame was wider than the Ranger/BII so rather than mount the springs on the outside of the frame they mounted them under the frame. To make up for that and lower it back to a more realistic height they put the axle above spring. Most of the lift gained by swapping in Explorer springs is gaining back the height lost from fatigue, usually about an inch. It won't make up for the 4"+ you will lose by switching the axle on the spring.

The Explorer had a wider frame, wider axles, heavier springs, shocks mounted wider, longer wheelbase and a lower CG. Even then they had their rollover issues too...

If you do intend on swapping in the Explorer rear, wait on the Explorer driveshaft. On older Rangers (I would think BII's would be similar) they use a much smaller u-joint and have a different bolt pattern on the pinion flange. It would be a bummer to make the Explorer driveshaft fit the 7.5 and then have to change it again to fit the new axle.

I don't want a 351, period, and a 4.0 makes better power where it matters than the 5.0.
Depends on the 5.0... 270lb-ft@2k is enough in the right places for me. Even being the most stupid common roller (non-HO) engine out there it is very fun to drive.

If you don't have it, you may need the plastic spool looking bushing for your 4wd linkage. The added slop between your lever and the peg on the t-case's lever might mess with your shifting.
 
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adsm08

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The Ex's were set up very much different. The frame was wider than the Ranger/BII so rather than mount the springs on the outside of the frame they mounted them under the frame. To make up for that and lower it back to a more realistic height they put the axle above spring. Most of the lift gained by swapping in Explorer springs is gaining back the height lost from fatigue, usually about an inch. It won't make up for the 4"+ you will lose by switching the axle on the spring.

The Explorer had a wider frame, wider axles, heavier springs, shocks mounted wider, longer wheelbase and a lower CG. Even then they had their rollover issues too...

If you do intend on swapping in the Explorer rear, wait on the Explorer driveshaft. On older Rangers (I would think BII's would be similar) they use a much smaller u-joint and have a different bolt pattern on the pinion flange. It would be a bummer to make the Explorer driveshaft fit the 7.5 and then have to change it again to fit the new axle.
All valid points. I never thought it would be bolt in, but worst case it can't be any worse than flipping an Explorer axle for use in a Ranger.

And yes, the Explorer shaft will likely wait until I have an 8.8 ready to go it, which is happening at some point anyway.

Depends on the 5.0... 270lb-ft@2k is enough in the right places for me. Even being the most stupid common roller (non-HO) engine out there it is very fun to drive.
True, but I already have a 4.0 SOHC sitting in the garage just waiting to be freshened up. Paid nothing for it. And as I said, I have never cared for large displacement V8's. Some guys just like to see how much they can build out of smaller engines. I work next to an import enthusiast who thinks my 2.9 V6 is a ridiculously large engine.

If you don't have it, you may need the plastic spool looking bushing for your 4wd linkage. The added slop between your lever and the peg on the t-case's lever might mess with your shifting.
I should have everything I need at this point. I took the donor case out of my truck when I did the M5OD/1354M swap a few years ago. I was missing a few things because I lost my shifters and the gate bracket wouldn't have lined up right because it was from an FM145 and the B2 has a 146. Boot/bezel setup was different between 87 and 88 as well and I didn't have the right bezel for the floor. I have a few of the plastic spool units around too. I went to the yard and grabbed all that I could find the one day.
 
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adsm08

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Last time on this build:

The clutch slave gave out, a Y-pipe bolt snapped off in the manifold, the exahust broke into 3 pieces when I sneezed at it, and it was friggin cold outside.


Now:

I got the bolt drilled. It's not out out, but there is a hole in it big enough to put a different bolt in.

I found out that Ford still makes those little discs that go on manual transfer case shifters and attach the lever to the case.

I replaced both boots on the drive shaft. Still hunting for a proper drive shaft. I will find one soon.

But now the big news.....

After 2 hours of fussing, cussing, and searching, a little creative engineering, and a lot of skeeter bites my B2 has, what I consider, the single most desirable factory option available in 1988.




After years of faithful and unfailing service in my Ranger, a few more years of sitting in garages, being traded off to someone else who decided he didn't want it, and then sitting in my garage some more my trust rusty old 1350M is about to go back into service.

That's right, my B2 finally has a manual T-case. Now if only it had a transmission.
 

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