D35 needs axle U-Joints replaced. Any how to's?

[shane96ranger]

I've spent a while last night, then again this morning trying different combination's in the search field on how to replace my U-Joints in my D35. I keep getting a friggin' white screen. I looked in the tech library and didn't see anything either.

Basically, I'm getting the dreaded bind now when I lock my hubs and turn. How far do I need to tear into it to replace the U-Joints? Is this something where I'm going to be so far into it that I should replace other things like ball joints, etc? I have plenty of experience pulling the shafts out of the 95+ Explorers, but never done the old TTB style. If there's somewhere someone can point me with instructions, that would be great. I did find a couple of very useful things in the tech library. In the exploded view it appears there are 2 U joints on the passenger side...is this correct? It also looks like I may need to pull the C-Clip if this is the case? If this is true, how crucial is this particular joint - it doesn't appear it would get a lot of flex where it's at.

I don't want to get in the middle of it and wish I'd bought and replaced this, that, and the other thing if you know what I mean.




I found this very informative article in the tech library by 4X4Junkie which I will put to use:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/May06/dana35_ujoint_snapring.htm

This is the exploded view I was talking about:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/d28.gif

 

[AllanD]

a "Bind" is NORMAL in high traction situations when n 4x4

Are you getting a bind just when the hubs are locked?

How far are you turned?

Bwcause on my '96 front end If I turn the steering all the way I get a pulsing bind in 2wd with the hubs locked... and my joints are fine.

AD

 

[legoms013]

To get at all three u-joints you have to take off everything down to the spindle.

No special tools are needed other than a magnet (if you have autohubs) or a D35 hub nut socket (if you have manual hubs).

Start by taking the hub off, then the little c-clip and washers, then take the hub retaining washers off, then all your brake hardware, finally the rotor and then the spindle.

To get the spindle off wrap it in one or two towels, then duct tape them on there. Take a 2x4 and a BFH and beat the crap out of it in all directions till its loose. Basically you just don't want to dent, or marr any of its surfaces.

And lastly to get the u-jpints of of the yokes you can do either one of two things.

Beat them out with a BFH and then beat the new u-joints back in. This is common, and alot of people do it this way.

Or you can rent a c-clamp press from your favorite auto parts start and press them out. This is more elegant, and more politically correct, but like I said it can be done with a hammer and some time.

And that "middle" u-joint you will have to take the diff apart to get to. This is the hardest part. If you have long arms getting it out isn't such a big deal. But if you have the stock arms its a little harder. Basically have to take out the whole beam/diff/radius arm assemble. Might as well do the c-clip eliminator mod while its all apart, so next time you do this you won't have to take the diff off the beam to get the axle shaft out.

 

[shane96ranger]

a "Bind" is NORMAL in high traction situations when n 4x4

Are you getting a bind just when the hubs are locked?

How far are you turned?

Bwcause on my '96 front end If I turn the steering all the way I get a pulsing bind in 2wd with the hubs locked... and my joints are fine.

AD

I can't even get out of a parking spot without going back and forth (a few times - rather embarrassing). I get 1/4 to 1/2 turn and it hesitates and crouches the front end when I go.

EDIT: This was also on snow, and only when I have them locked (manual hubs).

 

[shane96ranger]

To get at all three u-joints you have to take off everything down to the spindle.

No special tools are needed other than a magnet (if you have autohubs) or a D35 hub nut socket (if you have manual hubs).

Start by taking the hub off, then the little c-clip and washers, then take the hub retaining washers off, then all your brake hardware, finally the rotor and then the spindle.

To get the spindle off wrap it in one or two towels, then duct tape them on there. Take a 2x4 and a BFH and beat the crap out of it in all directions till its loose. Basically you just don't want to dent, or marr any of its surfaces.

And lastly to get the u-jpints of of the yokes you can do either one of two things.

Beat them out with a BFH and then beat the new u-joints back in. This is common, and alot of people do it this way.

Or you can rent a c-clamp press from your favorite auto parts start and press them out. This is more elegant, and more politically correct, but like I said it can be done with a hammer and some time.

And that "middle" u-joint you will have to take the diff apart to get to. This is the hardest part. If you have long arms getting it out isn't such a big deal. But if you have the stock arms its a little harder. Basically have to take out the whole beam/diff/radius arm assemble. Might as well do the c-clip eliminator mod while its all apart, so next time you do this you won't have to take the diff off the beam to get the axle shaft out.

Very nice, thanks!!

 

[shane96ranger]

And that "middle" u-joint you will have to take the diff apart to get to.

If I didn't replace this......would it be a big deal? The bind really seems to be the joint right behind the hubs. Am I right in thinking this doesn't have a huge range of flex?

 

[legoms013]

No it wouldn't be all that big of a deal. That joint rarely goes bad, and usually its not.

I'd check it for play, and if its tight I'd leave it if you need to save time etc. If it seems ok, skip it.

On the other hand, if you do all the work to replace the outer two, you are 60% of the way there to being able to get the third one out.

Whereas to replace it all by itself later down the road, you have to re-tear everything apart.

Your call. If I were you I'd leave it alone if it seems like that joint isn't shot.

Good luck If you have more questions just post up.

 

[shane96ranger]

No it wouldn't be all that big of a deal. That joint rarely goes bad, and usually its not.

I'd check it for play, and if its tight I'd leave it if you need to save time etc. If it seems ok, skip it.

On the other hand, if you do all the work to replace the outer two, you are 60% of the way there to being able to get the third one out.

Whereas to replace it all by itself later down the road, you have to re-tear everything apart.

Your call. If I were you I'd leave it alone if it seems like that joint isn't shot.

Good luck If you have more questions just post up.

OK, good. I want to see what my options are beforehand. I appreciate the help!

 

[shane96ranger]

OK, I have another question. I was thinking I may as well do the ball joints while I've got it down that far. So I was reading the article in the tech library in the link below. It says to install the passenger side axle so the joints are "in phase". I think this means the inner and outer U-joint need to be in the same position, but I want to make sure. Am I correct in what this means?

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/balljoints2.htm

I'm in parts gathering mode, just hoping the weather warms up soon so I can get this done. I probably need to be able to drive my car when I'm doing this work on the Ranger.

Thanks!

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Yes, you want the inner and outer axle U joints on the passenger side to be in phase with eachother.

 

[shane96ranger]

Yes, you want the inner and outer axle U joints on the passenger side to be in phase with eachother.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

 

[4x4junkie]

I'd replace that middle joint while it's apart.

These joints typically go bad due to them drying out of grease and rusting, not from wear. All 3 came with the same amount of grease, so that middle joint very likely isn't far behind the knuckle joints.

There have been mixed reports that a C-frame style balljoint/u-joint press can get the middle joint out without removing the shaft from the diff.

I'd just tear it all the way down and put the circlip eliminator spring on it.

 

[shane96ranger]

OK Dudes, I have another question on the U-Joints. Has anyone used Precision Super Strength 371's in their front end? If so, are they as good as the Spicer 5-760X's? The Precision Super's are what Napa says they have that is the equivalent of Spicer.

NOTE: He said they are made by Federal Mogul, which I've had luck with in the past.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

No they are not as good...there is no replacement for the 5-760X other than super joints and likes.

 

[4x4junkie]

If they don't have the circular forging pattern on the cross like shown in the pic, you can bet your behind they are not as good as a Spicer 760 (if the DO have the pattern, then they are probably reboxed Spicers).